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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-18-2013, 05:09 PM   #6271
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Hi guys, I'll be switching to an RB6 from a DEX210 soon, will the 210 hex rears fit on the RB6 OK?
I still have a heap of tyres mounted I would like to use before I change over to kit wheels.
Thanks.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:11 PM   #6272
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No they are 12mm
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:09 PM   #6273
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When you add washers behind the ball studs on the steering rack, are you adding Ackerman? Or taking it out?
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:54 AM   #6274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
When you add washers behind the ball studs on the steering rack, are you adding Ackerman? Or taking it out?
I've been trying to figure this out as well. This is the best information I've found on this subject: petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb4/B4_CharliePerezSetupHints.htm

Increasing ackerman (front wheel angle difference is increased) mellows the steering and is accomplished by reversing the steering bell crank and putting the ball studs back in facing the stock direction. This effectively moves the position of the ball studs back a millimeter or two.

Decreasing ackerman (front wheel angle is similar) makes the car more aggressive and is accomplished by adding spacers under the bell crank ball studs.

Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 04-20-2013, 07:55 PM   #6275
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Thinking out loud here. When I get to a track that I know or to a new track, the first thing I do is test tires. Primarily looking for max rear traction and good side bite. I usually use a front tire that I know will push as to not interfere with the selection of the rear tire. Once set on rear tire, I try different front tires til I am satisfied or run out of time. Most times I end up changing to a front tire with less traction than the max traction tire that I have.

I also will play with roll center on the rear for traction and side bite, generally don't play with anti-squat.

My question is: maybe I should start using the front tire with more traction than I like and start tuning the front of the car to take traction out versus changing to a tire with less traction.

I would be interested to hear some other opinions/thoughts on this.

Turbo
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:24 AM   #6276
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Anyone run a protek servo in their RB6? If so, what model did you get?
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:30 AM   #6277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E73 View Post
I've been trying to figure this out as well. This is the best information I've found on this subject: petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb4/B4_CharliePerezSetupHints.htm

Increasing ackerman (front wheel angle difference is increased) mellows the steering and is accomplished by reversing the steering bell crank and putting the ball studs back in facing the stock direction. This effectively moves the position of the ball studs back a millimeter or two.

Decreasing ackerman (front wheel angle is similar) makes the car more aggressive and is accomplished by adding spacers under the bell crank ball studs.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Putting a shim behind the stud on the RB6 will increase steering by decreasing ackerman. The B4 has 2 holes, forward and back. Going to the back will mellow the steering. The way you can achieve this is installing the ballstud on the other side, but I would run a low mount ballstud if you were going to do that.

I've run both 1mm shim and 0, and I like 0 the best for my track.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:49 AM   #6278
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So I ran my second car that I built as MM for the 1st time yesterday in a race. Wow. Our track is indoors, but it's not exactly high bite. Medium bite would be describe it, and it can be loose so it was going to be interesting to see if it would work.

I had never run a mid motor car before, and I have a bit of work on it to make it better, but essentially I took my rear motor car setup and tossed it on this with some adjustments, but the base is the same.

I was able to run my fastest laps with MM, ran more consistent, jumped better, and was overall smoother than I had been with my RM car. I TQ'd and won the 7 min main by a good margin.

My RM car was good, but there's something to be said about how a MM car drives without feeling like you have to drive hard to get a really good lap time.

Here's how I made the car config wise. I am going to try saddle packs eventually, but I need to figure out how they are mounting them.

I did have to modify the rear motor guard to move the battery back further back, and the braces look a little tweaked because of it (the holes are actually not made for the braces so it stretches it a bit, the battery doesn't move though. Just looks goofy.)



Here is my setup

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.pdf

Phone friendly JPG version
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.jpg
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Last edited by K_King; 04-21-2013 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:49 PM   #6279
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What does increasing toe in on the rear give and take away? I picked up a used roller and it comes with 0 degree aluminium rears. Is this the common set used or the 0.5 set?

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Old 04-21-2013, 02:01 PM   #6280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColbyRichards View Post
What does increasing toe in on the rear give and take away? I picked up a used roller and it comes with 0 degree aluminium rears. Is this the common set used or the 0.5 set?

When traction is low, you'll typically migrate to using more toe-in in the rear to lock it in more on power. In stock classes you'll loose perhaps a little straight away speed by increasing toe, but I'm not so sure that's an issue with modified classes with as much power we have these days.

Some racers also say by increasing rear toe-in that it gives more initial steering because of more break-effect (drag) caused by the rear end. I typically don't consider it.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:49 PM   #6281
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When traction is low, you'll typically migrate to using more toe-in in the rear to lock it in more on power. In stock classes you'll loose perhaps a little straight away speed by increasing toe, but I'm not so sure that's an issue with modified classes with as much power we have these days.

Some racers also say by increasing rear toe-in that it gives more initial steering because of more break-effect (drag) caused by the rear end. I typically don't consider it.
Does this affect how it corners through the end of the corner? I like to have lots of turn in and holding lines through the corners. Like I'm driving on carpet really

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Old 04-21-2013, 03:13 PM   #6282
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It should rotate less. Meaning more rear grip.
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:22 PM   #6283
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I run on the same track as K_King. I just came back from running my 17.5 in mid motor configuration and WOW! So much more corner speed! I may have to get my rear motor mod to mid motor configuration as well.

I was running clay compound front and rear
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:32 PM   #6284
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Originally Posted by Turbo911 View Post
Thinking out loud here. When I get to a track that I know or to a new track, the first thing I do is test tires. Primarily looking for max rear traction and good side bite. I usually use a front tire that I know will push as to not interfere with the selection of the rear tire. Once set on rear tire, I try different front tires til I am satisfied or run out of time. Most times I end up changing to a front tire with less traction than the max traction tire that I have.

I also will play with roll center on the rear for traction and side bite, generally don't play with anti-squat.

My question is: maybe I should start using the front tire with more traction than I like and start tuning the front of the car to take traction out versus changing to a tire with less traction.

I would be interested to hear some other opinions/thoughts on this.

Turbo
I Ran a new track today and the rear was a handful. It was so different from font to back I chose the easy way out and changed front tires to match the feel of the rear. As I work on rear grip I know I can easily add more front with a simple and quick change.
I suppose I could have changed several things for incremental loss but it was so far off the tire change was needed.
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:36 PM   #6285
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I stripped my servo horn today. I decided on the losi aluminum replacement. Should I be adding any shims behind the ball stud?
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