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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-12-2012, 08:22 AM   #601
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Run a pack through your gearbox first and see if it breaks in (it should). And I would never use grease in your gearbox as it will only add drag. I use a couple drops of light bearing oil on the gears and it works great, with no added drag.
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:25 AM   #602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewis4x4 View Post
Does anyone else have this same issue? When I put my transmission together, it does not seem to be as free as other makes (Losi, Team Associated, etc..) I've backed the screws out as far as I can without coming out of the backplate, so I know it's not that they are too tight... Just seems that when you turn the outdrives, the spur does not want to spin real free... Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
You going rear motor or mid? Rear motor should be the same as rb5. I followed the sticky on this offroad forum and used a little shock oil. No problems first time round and every time. Cheers,
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:31 AM   #603
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Check and makesure all your bearings are pressed in all the way sometimes they dont seat all the way also check each bearing seprately also check that the top shaft bearings are in the proper location some guys accidently put the output side bearing in the transmission housing when in fact it goes in the spacer
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:19 AM   #604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamison R View Post
+1 doesnt make me too confident when buying the most expensive 2 wheel buggy on the market.
I feel the same way... arms, alum wide brace, front axels and hex's, no alum steering rack like the pics, no vented slipper, .5 alum hubs.... I wish Tebo would just release a setup that is using all the parts that come with the car.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:29 AM   #605
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Yea, I like to use a little bearing oil instead of grease but they always seem to have drag. I'm going rear motor so it's just like the SC and RB5. This one doesn't feel any different than a RB5 does its just that I don't like how they feel. they just are not as free as I would think they should be.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:38 AM   #606
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Ive built tons of them and mine are all very free.
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:47 AM   #607
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Got my RB6 today! Also got the Orion VST 7.5/R10 Pro motor/ESC combo.

Build commence!
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:52 AM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derry View Post
I feel the same way... arms, alum wide brace, front axels and hex's, no alum steering rack like the pics, no vented slipper, .5 alum hubs.... I wish Tebo would just release a setup that is using all the parts that come with the car.
The car comes with narrow and wide rear pivots. They are just plastic. The AL are just a durability options.

I think the rear arm change and the front hex are more for his personal preference on the feel of the car and not for performance.

As for the hubs, that is just a standard tuning option. The .5 hubs might work for your track and they might not. He needed more toe for that track that weekend so he put those hubs on.

Now, as for the steering rack, the rack was said to be a prototype and not with the kit on the day it was announced. I know we would all like to see an AL rack, but I don't want to see the price go any higher. Someone will make an optional AL rack sooner or later.

The vented slipper does seem to be an odd omission. I will admit that.

We all have to remember he is going to change the car however he sees fit to get it to be fast and drive the way he wants. We also have to remember that setups for our local tracks will probably be different from what he runs. I know on my RB5 I run different shock oils(front and rear), rear links and rear anti-squat than he did at the time. It was all to get the car to feel how I want it to feel and work on my local tracks while running the tires I wanted to run(also different from what he runs on similar surfaces).

Factory setups should only be used as a guide unless you drive on the same exact track he did at the time he made the setup.Even then it may change depending on the grip the track has that day.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:03 AM   #609
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Originally Posted by Rfury View Post
The car comes with narrow and wide rear pivots. They are just plastic. The AL are just a durability options.

I think the rear arm change and the front hex are more for his personal preference on the feel of the car and not for performance.

As for the hubs, that is just a standard tuning option. The .5 hubs might work for your track and they might not. He needed more toe for that track that weekend so he put those hubs on.

Now, as for the steering rack, the rack was said to be a prototype and not with the kit on the day it was announced. I know we would all like to see an AL rack, but I don't want to see the price go any higher. Someone will make an optional AL rack sooner or later.

The vented slipper does seem to be an odd omission. I will admit that.

We all have to remember he is going to change the car however he sees fit to get it to be fast and drive the way he wants. We also have to remember that setups for our local tracks will probably be different from what he runs. I know on my RB5 I run different shock oils(front and rear), rear links and rear anti-squat than he did at the time. It was all to get the car to feel how I want it to feel and work on my local tracks while running the tires I wanted to run(also different from what he runs on similar surfaces).

Factory setups should only be used as a guide unless you drive on the same exact track he did at the time he made the setup.Even then it may change depending on the grip the track has that day.
Yeah, I realize that... I should have been more specific. I meant I wish he would release a base setup using all the parts that come with the car, kinda like Ryan C did with his "all clay tracks" setup.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:03 AM   #610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewis4x4 View Post
Does anyone else have this same issue? When I put my transmission together, it does not seem to be as free as other makes (Losi, Team Associated, etc..) I've backed the screws out as far as I can without coming out of the backplate, so I know it's not that they are too tight... Just seems that when you turn the outdrives, the spur does not want to spin real free... Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
I have had a bad case before. If I remember correctly, it was burrs around the bores for the top shaft or the actual gear on the top shaft was rubbing. Check all those bores thoroughly and hit em with an xacto.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:12 AM   #611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derry View Post
Yeah, I realize that... I should have been more specific. I meant I wish he would release a base setup using all the parts that come with the car, kinda like Ryan C did with his "all clay tracks" setup.
It is alright. That really wasn't directed specifically at you.

If you build the kit and put everything as it is in the manual, you have the base starting setup for any Kyosho car. They just don't post or produce a setup sheet based on those settings.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:26 AM   #612
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Anyone hear of a US release date yet?
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:31 AM   #613
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Late this month or early next month. If you don't have a pre-order in now, I doubt you can get one till sometime in October.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:51 AM   #614
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I think Tebo's Supernats setup might have some compromises in the setup due to the tires used, IMO suburbs aren't the best tire for WCRC, so he may have ran the .5 hubs to compensate.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:53 AM   #615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewis4x4 View Post
Does anyone else have this same issue? When I put my transmission together, it does not seem to be as free as other makes (Losi, Team Associated, etc..) I've backed the screws out as far as I can without coming out of the backplate, so I know it's not that they are too tight... Just seems that when you turn the outdrives, the spur does not want to spin real free... Thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
Did you clean out your bearings? I know on my wc kit my bearings were packed with grease and once I cleaned them out it got better. Then followed with a break-in, like Captain said it got even better.
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