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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-09-2013, 02:12 PM   #6121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Yeah I did. Just think the exotek aluminums a lot harder than the kyosho so ordered the kyoshos in aluminum.
I use( Mooslick) from COW/RC on all my friction areas. Stuff works great... Just tryin to help.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #6122
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Where does the aluminum rack need to be shimmed?
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:45 PM   #6123
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Where does the aluminum rack need to be shimmed?
The exotek needed some thin 4mm shim on the flanged side of the flange. It came on a small slip of paper with the rack. Not sure the kyosho is the same way.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:47 PM   #6124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slashdog View Post
I use( Mooslick) from COW/RC on all my friction areas. Stuff works great... Just tryin to help.
Haha that site is a blast btw but they are OOS on lube. I just use dry film crc silicone or graphite powder or my road bike stuff whatever is nearby and not empty.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:57 PM   #6125
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My exotic rack didn't come with any shims
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:05 PM   #6126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
My exotic rack didn't come with any shims
Mine did not its just a recommendation.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:37 PM   #6127
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KYOUMW519GM or KYOUM720B ? both are listed as upgrades to the stock piece for the RB6 on amain... but not sure which fit? Also, how about the ST piece SPTSTUM131GM ?
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:53 PM   #6128
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I ordered the KYOUM720B and it fit. Two races on it so far, and is still straight.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:17 PM   #6129
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the 720 is the right part. The others for older rb5 width. The front bulkhead also is listed wrongly (Ghead brass for RB6).
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:28 PM   #6130
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thanks guys, appreiate it.. my stock one is so bent it looks like a crazy straw.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:33 PM   #6131
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IMHO it was surprising and disappointing the steering could not use a metal bearing. One more area to unnecessarily maintain. My RB5 is that more streetwise and I always fall back to it.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:16 PM   #6132
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to put a bearing into the rack would automatically add the slop you guys are trying to avoid.. in order for a bearing to work there are tolerances which means play.. ita just the way it is. the only bearing you would be able to put in there and have limited slop would be some type of tapered needle bearing and that would just be over kill.. i qould also love to remove the play from my car but it is what it is. If you wanted to limit the slop and use a bearing you could tap a hole in the side of the ackerman bar and put a set screw in there to stabilize the bearings out diameter. but you will still have some play between the screw and the inner diameter and then of coarse the tolerances between the balls and races.. I all honesty in offoad racing the front of that car is vibrating and bouncing all the time i doubt there would be any huge advantage to getting it slop free.. on road may be and advantage but not really here.. JUST MY OPINION not trying to piss anyone off

and atleast its not as bad of a mess as that losi rack that actually starts to bind up from heat if your a super aggresive driver
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:32 PM   #6133
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I'm having an issue on corner entry, the car seems to push. I'm running the stock setup with a shorty batterie with barcodes. Which is tire of choice! Ny help
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:57 PM   #6134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
to put a bearing into the rack would automatically add the slop you guys are trying to avoid.. in order for a bearing to work there are tolerances which means play.. ita just the way it is. the only bearing you would be able to put in there and have limited slop would be some type of tapered needle bearing and that would just be over kill.. i qould also love to remove the play from my car but it is what it is. If you wanted to limit the slop and use a bearing you could tap a hole in the side of the ackerman bar and put a set screw in there to stabilize the bearings out diameter. but you will still have some play between the screw and the inner diameter and then of coarse the tolerances between the balls and races.. I all honesty in offoad racing the front of that car is vibrating and bouncing all the time i doubt there would be any huge advantage to getting it slop free.. on road may be and advantage but not really here.. JUST MY OPINION not trying to piss anyone off

and atleast its not as bad of a mess as that losi rack that actually starts to bind up from heat if your a super aggresive driver
My limited rc knowledge and engineering aside, I can't see how adding a bearing would add slop. The bearing only moves/rotates in one dimension, put in a high torque servo and your steering is rock solid.

It is by using moving friction parts that causes slop eventually. Delrin would be the best alternative as it minimizes friction and thus wear and tear. My 2 cents, not trying to start an arguement! Cheers,
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:14 PM   #6135
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You're forgetting that this is the real world and real bearings don't perfectly operate in one dimension, especially in applications like this where there would be a significant periodic axial load (when you land)
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