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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-08-2013, 01:44 PM   #6106
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does anyone know.. in a pinch, would a losi 22 diff work in an rb6? I dont know what my problem is but I keep breaking off the ears in the diff nut when tightening, and I dont even tighten it that much!
The best fix, is to use the Exotek alu diff nut! I have them in all my K cars, and it is money well spent. Youll need blue loctite to go with it.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:06 PM   #6107
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Not sure about the tlr one but the Tamiya diff nut is a perfect fit, they make a nice alloy one.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:50 PM   #6108
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Thanks man..
dont thank me thank kyosho, they made a great kit

thats weird carbon2k i never had any issue like that. did you squeeze the spring with pliers to make sure it doesnt bind.. and is everything seating properly. the only problem i had with that white piece is you will never remove it and reuse it. i have since gone with the exotek one and couldnt be happier. i wouldnt use a losi diff part in anything their new diff isnt very good. i have actually helped some tlr guys figure out a way to use the entire ae diff in the losi cars, except the gear. that tlr screw and thrust plates are really a problem
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:08 PM   #6109
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i have a very clean loaded rb6 for sale if anyone wants it. thanks Chris
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:18 PM   #6110
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can the rb6 use saddle packs from the lazer sp in rear motor config? been hearing yes and no all weekend long lol gettin ready to order mine in a few days! totally stoked about the car
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:26 PM   #6111
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can the rb6 use saddle packs from the lazer sp in rear motor config? been hearing yes and no all weekend long lol gettin ready to order mine in a few days! totally stoked about the car
Yes you can. I run mine with saddles.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:29 PM   #6112
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Yes you can. I run mine with saddles.
thank you very much!
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:00 AM   #6113
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What size is the outer bearing in the aluminum rear hubs?
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:12 AM   #6114
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What size is the outer bearing in the aluminum rear hubs?
5x13x4mm

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Old 04-09-2013, 11:10 AM   #6115
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Thanks
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:28 AM   #6116
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Well I did my pre season tear down of the buggy. My steering rack has become very sloppy. I have the all aluminum exotek red in there. I think the flange has worn out in the rack itself. I have since ordered the kyosho aluminum crank arms and the kyosho aluminum rack and the LA256 part and a whole new front end (arms hubs spindles).

Question is do you shim it like the exotek one as well? Also anyone else notice this with their exotek racks? If the kyosho also gets sloppy I will go back to plastic I think. Does anyone get any slop elsewhere in the front. The rears as it should be btw. Think kyosho messed up by not putting a ball bearing in there like the 1/8 scale. There is too much metal on metal friction so will use royal purple I think.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:35 AM   #6117
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Well I did my pre season tear down of the buggy. My steering rack has become very sloppy. I have the all aluminum exotek red in there. I think the flange has worn out in the rack itself. I have since ordered the kyosho aluminum crank arms and the kyosho aluminum rack and the LA256 part and a whole new front end (arms hubs spindles).

Question is do you shim it like the exotek one as well? Also anyone else notice this with their exotek racks? If the kyosho also gets sloppy I will go back to plastic I think. Does anyone get any slop elsewhere in the front. The rears as it should be btw. Think kyosho messed up by not putting a ball bearing in there like the 1/8 scale. There is too much metal on metal friction so will use royal purple I think.
Steel inserts are going to wear out the alum rack, I'm going to put some dry lube to see if it helps, I hate putting grease on them when there is so much dirt to get crammed in there.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:19 PM   #6118
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Steel inserts are going to wear out the alum rack, I'm going to put some dry lube to see if it helps, I hate putting grease on them when there is so much dirt to get crammed in there.
Your right grease could make it worse I suppose. Funny thing is the alum rack still has all anodizing left the kyosho flange is the one which is worn out . Put a M4 screw in the rack and cannot tell any slop. So the exo part is solid.

If someone could just make a teflon flange that would rock. Or ball bearings. Exotek are you listening just widen the two 4mm holes so a flanged bearing will fit!
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:13 PM   #6119
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Your right grease could make it worse I suppose. Funny thing is the alum rack still has all anodizing left the kyosho flange is the one which is worn out . Put a M4 screw in the rack and cannot tell any slop. So the exo part is solid.

If someone could just make a teflon flange that would rock. Or ball bearings. Exotek are you listening just widen the two 4mm holes so a flanged bearing will fit!
Hmm ok so the steel bushings wore out, why would you replace the rack then? just get new bushings and screws
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:39 PM   #6120
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Hmm ok so the steel bushings wore out, why would you replace the rack then? just get new bushings and screws
Yeah I did. Just think the exotek aluminums a lot harder than the kyosho so ordered the kyoshos in aluminum.
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