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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-03-2013, 08:17 PM   #6046
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post


Honestly I can't find a number, all I can find is a graphite version at amain. Next time I go to my shop I will see if I can get a part number. It is worth trying if you have been bending braces, mine is rock solid now
Thanks for looking out for the part number, much appreciated.
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:56 PM   #6047
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I went to my first race in twenty years tonight...I repeat...I "went" to my first race tonight...I was running some practice laps at AMS in Flint,Michigan...nice clay track...I am running my rb6 mid motor...and I had really good traction,font and back...but a problem occurred with one set of jumps..a triple...its not hard to clear it but...on the fourth or fifth lap,I decided to clear the triple and the next turn without touching the ground...Ooooops! While in the air,I had a lot of time to think,I could tell by my excessive speed that I was going to clear that entire side of the track...maybe 7 or 8 hundred feet...maybe more...I knew my only hope was to slow my "air" speed down...so I started shaking the radio in my hands which in turn caused the car start cartwheeling...this of course brought the buggy to stall speed and it started to fall to the track as planned...but wouldn't you know,there were two other buggy's right in my intended landing zone...my only choice was to land sideways on one wheel...I chose to land on one of the rear wheels so as not to disturb my steering settings...I have performed this landing before...(I am a professional stunt driver)...anyways,wouldn't ya know it...the dang rear suspension holder broke...(plastic)...the pro shop at AMS had the parts to fix rm,but not for mm and I didn't have enough time before qualifying to turn everything around,I just packed up...so in closing,if you want a buggy that's easy to drive,nicely balanced,fast and smooth...the rb6 might be a good choice...too bad it can't take a little betty one point landing...
brwn_bggr, that was such a sweet story!!! Can't stop laughing. You should write napoleon dynamite 2!
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:01 AM   #6048
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first day out with k car, had about 4 minutes of run time, then had to wait for my first qualifier. car feels solid off the bat, was having trouble when the car bottomed out on clay the metal chassis just wanted to stick causing the car to rapidly slow down. put on a chassis protector and that helped a little but still gotta get used to it. Local kid that runs for kyosho Collin helped me out with set up and showed me some tips that really helped a lot, still about a second slower lap times then my b4.2 but i cant complain with a second in the main tonight in intermediate stock. I have stock 5 hole pistons and he told me to go down to "tlr 55" pistons so we will try that and see how it goes.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:28 AM   #6049
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I am going through my car after running the Psycho Nitro Blast a couple of weeks ago. All I will say is... Say NO to wood jumps. My front arms, front skid plate/bumper, rear arms and rear bumper/motor guard are all trashed. The front arms nearly wore through to the hinge pins on the inner pivot.

I have replaced everything but the rear arms. I just don't have any more 521 rear arms. It might be time to experiment with the RB6 rear arms...
We have the 521-1 Rear Arms in stock, but they aren't listed on our website yet. If you can't find them locally, give me a call and I can get you some out.

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Old 04-04-2013, 08:11 AM   #6050
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Originally Posted by Jetboat_Jake View Post
first day out with k car, had about 4 minutes of run time, then had to wait for my first qualifier. car feels solid off the bat, was having trouble when the car bottomed out on clay the metal chassis just wanted to stick causing the car to rapidly slow down. put on a chassis protector and that helped a little but still gotta get used to it. Local kid that runs for kyosho Collin helped me out with set up and showed me some tips that really helped a lot, still about a second slower lap times then my b4.2 but i cant complain with a second in the main tonight in intermediate stock. I have stock 5 hole pistons and he told me to go down to "tlr 55" pistons so we will try that and see how it goes.
I never thought about the chassis sticking to the dirt more, but this car doesn't like to bottom out, I just raised it up a little bit.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:10 AM   #6051
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Hey guys. I am having issues with my ball diff. When I turn the out drives in opposite directions it feels really rough. Like there is some kind of binding going on. I opened it up and all of the bearing are smooth and I rebuilt the thrust bearing. When I put it back together I was sure to use plenty of the clear grease where it needed to be. The only thing that I noticed was the rings that go between the ball gear and the out drive were a little marked up. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:37 AM   #6052
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Hey guys. I am having issues with my ball diff. When I turn the out drives in opposite directions it feels really rough. Like there is some kind of binding going on. I opened it up and all of the bearing are smooth and I rebuilt the thrust bearing. When I put it back together I was sure to use plenty of the clear grease where it needed to be. The only thing that I noticed was the rings that go between the ball gear and the out drive were a little marked up. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions.

Try and loosen up your diff case. Loosen a little at the time until all the binding is gone. It might be too tight.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:53 AM   #6053
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Try and loosen up your diff case. Loosen a little at the time until all the binding is gone. It might be too tight.
Although he should check that, that will not affect the diff action.

It sounds like you roached the diff rings/and or balls, time to replace both.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:22 AM   #6054
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Originally Posted by pekow91 View Post
Hey guys. I am having issues with my ball diff. When I turn the out drives in opposite directions it feels really rough. Like there is some kind of binding going on. I opened it up and all of the bearing are smooth and I rebuilt the thrust bearing. When I put it back together I was sure to use plenty of the clear grease where it needed to be. The only thing that I noticed was the rings that go between the ball gear and the out drive were a little marked up. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions.
The rings most likely will have to be replaced but also check the diff case itself and make sure where the gears rest are not hitting anything.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:31 AM   #6055
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Yeah the diff rings seem to be the only thing that isnt moving freely. Thanks guys.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:53 PM   #6056
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Lost front inner hinge pin brace for xxx part no
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:20 PM   #6057
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Yeah the diff rings seem to be the only thing that isnt moving freely. Thanks guys.
Well if the rings are dented, i can see that... but if there are just some light scratches, just sand the rings a bit with some ~300 grit sand paper, and you should be fine. If it feels "gritty"... then the balls are probably too worn, and you need new diff balls. You can also flip your rings as well. I make sure to put a couple drops of clear grease in between the rings and the outdrives too. The rings aren't supposed to "move freely".. whatever that means. Some diffs (not kyoshos) even have slotted rings so they can't spin at all, and I know some people that have CA glued them to the outdrives as well (not necessary with kyosho diffs).
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:31 PM   #6058
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Never had a prob with the rb5/6 diff, prob one of the nicest I've run.

But out of interest, anyone using MIP option?
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:56 PM   #6059
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Never had a prob with the rb5/6 diff, prob one of the nicest I've run.

But out of interest, anyone using MIP option?
Iv looked at the option, but without knowing how much longer the outdives last, I can't figure out if the purchase is worth it. Even if the outdrives last TWICE as long as the OEMs, it is still more expensive to upgrade overall, than stick with the kyosho diffs, because the MIP outdrives are twice as expensive as the kyoshos.
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:58 PM   #6060
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Fair comment. My diff and driveshafts in the 6 is the diff from my RB5 Vega. Holding up fine. I'm not racing enough obviously lol. So still got kit 6 diff and drive shafts new from kit and unbuilt.
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