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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-02-2013, 09:02 AM   #6016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
yeah, now that you mention it, I have heard of the rear block breaking. Didnt really hear of broken rear hubs. Is the material just to thin around the hinge pin? My 8 year old would be driving this car probably also....So it need to be able to eat pipes and role over crash, lol.
Haven't broken anything yet. Just warped the front 30* block a bit and the stock front pin retainer bends after a while. Losi xxx is cheaper and never bends.
I wouldn't waste this car on an 8yr old. Give her the b4 or te 22. no parts needed other than stock. Amazing huh?
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:08 AM   #6017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
The kit front hinge pin holder will bend. You will need the upgraded KYOUM720B Kyosho High Strength SP Front Suspension Plate (Type-B).
It bends too...don't ask me how I know. It takes a while but it will bend as well.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:21 AM   #6018
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Need a little help here.

Just finished the build and was wondering how tight should the diff nut be? When I spin the tires in different directions at the same time (one going forward the other going backwards) the tires rotate 1.5 turns before stoping.
Is this tight enough before I start the diff break in?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:45 AM   #6019
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http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ed-tebo-video/
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:04 PM   #6020
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Default RB6 Setup

I know mid motor is super hot right now, but I've been working on a setup for the rear motor RB6 that uses ALL RB6 PARTS. I'm tired of buying old gen car parts to put on my new car so I came up with this with the help of my buddy Shaun.

I don't feel that the 521-1 are faster than the RB6 arms...maybe they feel easier to drive, but slower on the clock for the most part.

Try the whole setup and let me know what you guys think. Adjust ballstud washers accordingly to your tire and grip level. Rear shock length is off the top of my head, but basically all the way up with the longest shock bottom.

Feel free to ask questions if you have em.

Thomas
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File Type: pdf TT RB6 starting setup1.pdf (458.6 KB, 307 views)
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:48 PM   #6021
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deleted I will rephrase the question

Last edited by Dale.0; 04-02-2013 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:53 PM   #6022
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What are the part numbers for the mid motor config aluminum arm carriers?
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:25 PM   #6023
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Quote:
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Is there a reason to use the RF2 rear suspension holders instead of the aluminum ones?
Those aren't mutually exclusive. There are RF2 (Rear Front) plastic and aluminum hangers . Check out post #1
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:38 PM   #6024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGTIME View Post
Need a little help here.

Just finished the build and was wondering how tight should the diff nut be? When I spin the tires in different directions at the same time (one going forward the other going backwards) the tires rotate 1.5 turns before stoping.
Is this tight enough before I start the diff break in?
I start my break in with the diff at it's LOOSEST setting. The second the diff is tight enough to give diff action (two outdrives spinning opposite directions with the diff gear held). I break it in over and over, as I tighten the diff 1/2 turn at a time.

Break in
1/2 turn
Break in
1/2 turn

etc... etc.. until the diff is where you want it. Once it's set (tight enough so it doesn't slip). Run the car for a half pack or so, and recheck... usually needs another 1/16th turn or so after driving the car. (if memory serves)

YMMV
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #6025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sir_thomas View Post
I know mid motor is super hot right now, but I've been working on a setup for the rear motor RB6 that uses ALL RB6 PARTS. I'm tired of buying old gen car parts to put on my new car so I came up with this with the help of my buddy Shaun.

I don't feel that the 521-1 are faster than the RB6 arms...maybe they feel easier to drive, but slower on the clock for the most part.

Try the whole setup and let me know what you guys think. Adjust ballstud washers accordingly to your tire and grip level. Rear shock length is off the top of my head, but basically all the way up with the longest shock bottom.

Feel free to ask questions if you have em.

Thomas
Is there a reason to run the plastic rear suspension holders, instead of the aluminum ones?
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:57 PM   #6026
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After trying multiple ways of building ball diffs the best way I've found by far is:

Use 220 grit sandpaper wet with WD-40 on drive rings. Polish them until perfectly smooth and even. They will appear scratched but this is what you want. Use a piece of glass to keep sandpaper flat.

Build diff with plenty of grease.

Tighten diff beyond what you would want for ideal driving setting by half a turn or so with the slipper a little loose

Run half a battery then loosen diff to normal race setting and tighten slipper to appropriate setting

Using this method I have had my ball diffs last for months of use and they stay silky smooth. I've even taken them apart just to add grease and reassemble without new parts because they lasted so long.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:10 PM   #6027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
Is there a reason to run the plastic rear suspension holders, instead of the aluminum ones?
I reckon the plastic hangers plus metal bushings are slightly more free than the metal hangers and white delrin bushings...
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:59 PM   #6028
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Is there a reason to run the plastic rear suspension holders, instead of the aluminum ones?
They're included with the kit. If you don't care about the fancy matching gunmetal parts, get the STRC blocks, but they're only available in the narrow configuration. I don't think anybody but Kyo$ho makes the alloy wider blocks.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:33 PM   #6029
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Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
Is there a reason to run the plastic rear suspension holders, instead of the aluminum ones?
There is no performance gain...just bling'd parts that is always on back order. The only slight gain is durability...however, I've seen people wreck the alum. rf2 block as well.....just bend the corner enough to pop the hinge pin out.

The plastic part is fine as long as you use the plastic inserts. The metal inserts wear out the plastic susp holders really fast and within a few packs you get a-arm slop.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:04 PM   #6030
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Thomas,

I switched to a similar setup last week.(Dunlap helped me out) Anyway its about 95% the same as your current setup. This setup is better (for me) than the one using rb5 arms, I feel its more consistant.

So if any of you want to try Trans setup... I would. 3 of us at our local track have switched to it from the TEBO variation and pefer it.

Some asked about the plastic sus holders, They are suppose to provide more flex than the alum. I switced to those about month ago with no issues of breaking. I will switch to plastic inserts though.

Anyway T if you get a chance come down to NW and run with us!! Hit up Shawn he has been down quite a bit.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sir_thomas View Post
I know mid motor is super hot right now, but I've been working on a setup for the rear motor RB6 that uses ALL RB6 PARTS. I'm tired of buying old gen car parts to put on my new car so I came up with this with the help of my buddy Shaun.

I don't feel that the 521-1 are faster than the RB6 arms...maybe they feel easier to drive, but slower on the clock for the most part.

Try the whole setup and let me know what you guys think. Adjust ballstud washers accordingly to your tire and grip level. Rear shock length is off the top of my head, but basically all the way up with the longest shock bottom.

Feel free to ask questions if you have em.

Thomas
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