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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-26-2013, 08:10 PM   #5911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
....Don't want someone who acts like they know it all saying you're completely wrong.....
LOL
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:25 PM   #5912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
how did he say he measures droop.. hmmm could have sworn i said that
i'm not busting on you seth556
He's using the word droop, but he's only actually measuring shock length... which AFFECTS your droop...yes..., but isn't droop in and of itself. It's one piece of the puzzle that ultimately determine show much droop you get. When he actually describes droop... and how it makes the car react and behave, he's correct.

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Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Just backing you up. Don't want someone who acts like they know it all saying you're completely wrong (when you're correct).
I never said (or act) like I "know it all"... and if you don't like my advice or help, nobody is holding you down making you listen or follow it. Feel free to move on.

I still don't have time to type it all out, but here is a funny scenario you can run through in your head, and maybe it will help.

Lets say he measures his shock length (what he calls droop), at 100mm (like he does in the video). He then talks about going over bumps and how the tires will "fall" into holes in the track. How is that? well, that is because his ride height is somewhere in the middle of his overall travel, right?

So now, lets play the funny scenario.. lets say he MAXES out his ride height, so the car sits all the way as high as his car can go.... you can picture it, right? (there are some kids that run their rustlers like that at my track ) He has maximum down travel, and ZERO uptravel, right?. He's going down the track... how far will one tire fall into a hole? How much "droop" does he have now? The answer, is 0. So... you can have a shock length of 100mm, with your arms hanging low with the car on the stand, and have 0 droop, at the same time. That is because droop is the affect from total travel, and your static ride height. Technically, droop is your total up travel from right height, to tire lift.

But, I digress. Lets get back to the RB6
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-26-2013 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:55 PM   #5913
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Measuring droop...the right way.

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Old 03-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #5914
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:01 PM   #5915
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
He's using the word droop, but he's only actually measuring shock length... which AFFECTS your droop...yes..., but isn't droop in and of itself. It's one piece of the puzzle that ultimately determine show much droop you get. When he actually describes droop... and how it makes the car react and behave, he's correct.


I never said (or act) like I "know it all"... and if you don't like my advice or help, nobody is holding you down making you listen or follow it. Feel free to move on.

I still don't have time to type it all out, but here is a funny scenario you can run through in your head, and maybe it will help.

Lets say he measures his shock length (what he calls droop), at 100mm (like he does in the video). He then talks about going over bumps and how the tires will "fall" into holes in the track. How is that? well, that is because his ride height is somewhere in the middle of his overall travel, right?

So now, lets play the funny scenario.. lets say he MAXES out his ride height, so the car sits all the way as high as his car can go.... you can picture it, right? (there are some kids that run their rustlers like that at my track ) He has maximum down travel, and ZERO uptravel, right?. He's going down the track... how far will one tire fall into a hole? How much "droop" does he have now? The answer, is 0. So... you can have a shock length of 100mm, with your arms hanging low with the car on the stand, and have 0 droop, at the same time. That is because droop is the affect from total travel, and your static ride height. Technically, droop is your total up travel from right height, to tire lift.

But, I digress. Lets get back to the RB6
Droop is simply a measure of the farthest the suspension arms will travel downward. If we have the same length shocks and they're in the same holes, then we will both have the same amount of droop, our arms will go to the same point. I know there's a XXX Main setup book as well as a Hudy setup book you can read to learn about droop, as well as listening to Drake or any other pro driver, and probably any fast mod guy at your local track.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:21 PM   #5916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullsyzz View Post
Measuring droop...the right way.

Awsome droop tool where can I get one
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:36 PM   #5917
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What's the hot mod setup these days? My aluminum rf2 will finally be here tomorrow and I'm looking to try something new after running mod 4wd and mod sedan for the past few weeks!
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:05 AM   #5918
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Help please - are there aluminum rear hangers for Mid Motor? part number?
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:24 AM   #5919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Droop is simply a measure of the farthest the suspension arms will travel downward. If we have the same length shocks and they're in the same holes, then we will both have the same amount of droop, our arms will go to the same point. I know there's a XXX Main setup book as well as a Hudy setup book you can read to learn about droop, as well as listening to Drake or any other pro driver, and probably any fast mod guy at your local track.
Droop is a term invented by the R/C world as far as I can tell, downtravel is what you are referring too, if you were to read full scale design books. I think it's pointless to keep arguing about it, the *idea* references it the way brandon described, for the exact reason he describes. In offroad it is a lot more common to vary your ride height by 1 or more mm, so knowing a "droop over ride height" number is much more relevant than total downtravel.
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:21 PM   #5920
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I almost have completed the build, WOW what great instructions! The quality and fit outweigh the instructions. My question is I see the 2 wing mounts for the rear motor car, but I'm a little unclear if there needs to be some type of spacer from the inner post to the motor plate.


Help
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:02 PM   #5921
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
I almost have completed the build, WOW what great instructions! The quality and fit outweigh the instructions. My question is I see the 2 wing mounts for the rear motor car, but I'm a little unclear if there needs to be some type of spacer from the inner post to the motor plate.


Help
No spacers, just a mini nut on the end of the screw (honestly, I left that off, it seems to catch some threads on the mounts.)
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:17 PM   #5922
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Hi guys was wondering if anyone has tried a replacement chassis and the area under the trans does not dent in after a chassis slapping session?

I have one of the early release kits and it's almost fully dented in.

If I'm to swap in full titanium screws and I might get a replacement chassis.
Thanks,
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:40 PM   #5923
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I have beat the hell out of my car and the chassis has not dented in the rear transmission area. I have had the car about 2 months.

I have tweaked the chassis a bit. I landed very wrong over a jump and got a slight (about 1mm deflection from perfectly straight) bend in the chassis (from nose to tail, not side to side). If you don't put a straight edge on it, you can't even see it.

The top of the jump was flat and the front and rear tires did not make contact but the center of the chassis did. There was a kicker in front of the landing and I landed from about 12 or so feet in the air on that flat spot. Made the worst sound you could ever imagine.
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:12 PM   #5924
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Yeah I hear that sound a lot, it goes 'cringe'.
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:08 PM   #5925
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The dent in the chassis does not affect the car at all.
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