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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-25-2013, 07:40 AM   #5881
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Not exactly clear about the background. But on my nitro xray cars, I do measure droop with 30mm blocks on a setup board. I measure it at the hub level comparing it to team setup sheets with a calliper or a ride height gauge. The xrays give a number which is equal to how high the hub hangs when the chassis is on 30 mm blocks. The tekno sct410 truck sheets give me droop settings via shock lengths.

The right thing to do is take the droop measurement after exactly setting the tekno up via given shock lengths, then changing the shock positions and measuring droop again via blocks. It should be different. I like the xray approach of course.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:42 AM   #5882
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
im not sure, but in looking at Tebos car, he used the wider rb5 axles, but then used the narrow setting with his caster blocks to counter the width change. So im not sure what the point is.
I asked a guy at our track about this and he said onroad guys do similar changes. But didn't really get into it. It obviously changes pivot points. If you think about it, it raises the roll center slightly. I felt that steering was smoother with no loss of steering, even though it added 6 or .75mm to track width. I uses Yoshi wheels.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:13 PM   #5883
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Default Little help please

Will RB5 front wheels fit the RB6? What Associated front wheels fit the RB6?


What is the part number for the white front springs please?
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:27 PM   #5884
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Will RB5 front wheels fit the RB6? What Associated front wheels fit the RB6?


What is the part number for the white front springs please?
Yes, I have only used JC fronts and they fit, it seems the aka ones maybe the only hex style that needs some work.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:30 PM   #5885
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XGS002 is the white front.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Kyosho_Spring_Chart.pdf (57.7 KB, 76 views)
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:31 PM   #5886
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Will RB5 front wheels fit the RB6? Yup

What Associated front wheels fit the RB6?yup




What is the part number for the white front springs please? Kyoxgs002
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:13 PM   #5887
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Yes, I have only used JC fronts and they fit, it seems the aka ones maybe the only hex style that needs some work.
Actually Mike the aka wheels are fine. The avid wheels need the rb5 hexes
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:24 PM   #5888
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Thank you guys
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:46 PM   #5889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I wouldn't use the K plate, there is way too much play on the topshaft and bet both are getting chewed up.

I ground down the B4 plate and used the Kyosho spring, I think the B4 spring would have been fine as well.
I have the stock topshaft. Been running it for months. No play at all.

I cut the outer plate cause my spring was fitting way to tight around that raised area. It feels and adjusts way nicer now, and it's lighter.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:41 PM   #5890
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Originally Posted by jwood7 View Post
I have the stock topshaft. Been running it for months. No play at all.

I cut the outer plate cause my spring was fitting way to tight around that raised area. It feels and adjusts way nicer now, and it's lighter.
Im confused on how this works, the vts plate will not slide onto the stock shaft, unless you are modifying it.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:39 PM   #5891
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Yes, measuring shock length doesn't tell you droop at all. If you are hearing that term used, im sorry, but it's incorrect. It tells you one thing, and that is "shock length". If you all follow the same settings on your sheets, then you will get a consistent setup, but you are using the wrong term. I will have time to explain/type it out later, can't right now. Or PM me and I can give you my phone #, and id be happy to talk to you on lunch break today or something.
Shock length will tell you droop as long as you're using the same shock mounting location. Most 1/8 buggies use shock length to measure droop, I think Xray is the only one to actually do it in a way that shock mounting location doesn't matter, same thing as on road cars.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:36 PM   #5892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
Shock length will tell you droop as long as you're using the same shock mounting location. Most 1/8 buggies use shock length to measure droop, I think Xray is the only one to actually do it in a way that shock mounting location doesn't matter, same thing as on road cars.
Also depends on ride height. So while its fine, and works to compare against others, it's not measuring droop.
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Old 03-26-2013, 01:13 AM   #5893
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Losi 55 pistons (4 hole)
Front oil __35_____ Rear oil _30______
Front spring __pink_______ Rear spring __gold_____

Some say that oil should be a lighter weight 32.5f / 27.5 rear but I am pretty happy with the heavier weight oils
Certainly tempted to try the avidrc pistons on astro in mid motor.

Prob just opt for the 4 hole option fr/r

Also may consider the WC slipper setup
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:03 AM   #5894
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Originally Posted by Turbo911 View Post
If you are running at BFG, try Barcodes (clay) or Panther Bobcats on the front with AKA red inserts. The barcodes (wider tire patch) will have more grip than the Bobcats. Also you might want to try Panther Rattlers (clay) on the rear. Another rear tire is Brocodes (clay). You might want to run 35/30 on shock oil.

Turbo
BFG is where I'm at, thanks for the response.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:05 AM   #5895
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Default JC Vs Kuosho wheels

Hey guys...went testing yesterday for Greek Nationals on a new astro truck near Athens

I went with Schumacher Mini Spykes in the rear and stugger front and rear motor setup since the track is not high traction. At some point I tried some JC wheels which have deeper hex...I quess that means the rear end was narrower right?

Car felt better...is this down to narrow rear end? What's the theory here?
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