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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-24-2013, 07:58 PM   #5866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
For mid motor, can u go mid motor ?
Very interesting question. Let me think that over... Actually, now that I think about it.. i think you kinda HAVE to.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:03 PM   #5867
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Very interesting question. Let me think that over... Actually, now that I think about it.. i think you kinda HAVE to.
Haha! That's what I get for doing two things at once.

Let me rephrase my question. Running mid motor, can you use shorty or do you have to use saddle pack?
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:42 PM   #5868
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
Haha! That's what I get for doing two things at once.

Let me rephrase my question. Running mid motor, can you use shorty or do you have to use saddle pack?
Yep. I think you can actually shoehorn a full sized lipo in mid motor, with a short servo.
Not sure about ESC clearance behind the servo with a shorty though.
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:02 PM   #5869
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
Yep. I think you can actually shoehorn a full sized lipo in mid motor, with a short servo.
Not sure about ESC clearance behind the servo with a shorty though.
I see. If someone has, please post a pic

Thx
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:07 PM   #5870
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Another question.

In my rb6, I had to cut a lot of plastic out of the cover above the servo to get full steering throw left and right. Its like the top tray. Without cutting or grinding down the inner top tray, the servo horn would hit the top tray before full steering. Is this normal?
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:25 PM   #5871
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
Another question.

In my rb6, I had to cut a lot of plastic out of the cover above the servo to get full steering throw left and right. Its like the top tray. Without cutting or grinding down the inner top tray, the servo horn would hit the top tray before full steering. Is this normal?
Yeah it seems to happen with some servos but not with all of them...same thing here when using low profile Sanwa BLS but prefered to dremel doen the top of the hon instead
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:39 PM   #5872
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I too bought a Sanwa BL servo and wouldn't fit. The KO one10 fits perfectly and built against the (revised) manual/Japan team setup, the steering trim is dead on zero!
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:53 PM   #5873
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
this is going to sound strange but how do you adjust the droop, since there is no screws in the arms that would touch the chassis?
lol, come to think of it you are right.......wonder how too....
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Old 03-25-2013, 12:44 AM   #5874
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad View Post
GITSUM is correct and this spur gear/slipper pad info should be added to the first post if you can do so Brandon...

If you want to run 17.5 stock with the Kyosho slipper assembly, the Losi (70t) spur & slipper pads are the only ones that allow you to use the stock Kyosho slipper disks, which rest on the pads entirely. The AE slipper pads wear down and the Kyosho slipper plates end up resting on the spur gear. I have tried all different types of Mfg's spur/slipper combos over the years with my K cars and the Losi spur/pads are the only the fit CORRECTLY

The AVID Slipper is a great upgrade if your budget allows and gives you the option of 66, 69 & 72t spurs if you run stock and need to reach a low FDR.
I used a knife to shave down the flat parts of the octagon on my kimborough spurs so it wouldn't sit there... then went to avids anyway.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:15 AM   #5875
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Will RB5 front wheels fit the RB6? What Associated front wheels fit the RB6?
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:14 AM   #5876
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Can anyone send me the link on how to properly built the shocks. I came across a video guide a while ago and can't seem to find it again.

Any help would be great.

Cheers guys.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:17 AM   #5877
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http://youtu.be/GE73s4Sv5SY
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:47 AM   #5878
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couple things.. when using the ae spur gear and pads the plates DO HIT the spur.. i tuned my kyosho slipper plates with a drill and file,and a old top shaft and made them have a smaller outside diameter..free fix
second i asked about the droop issue about 5 pages back and someone said measuring the shocks doesnt do it. so are you telling me that all the 8th scale buggy setup sheets that tell you what length to set you shocks at to get proper droop are wrong.. i dont really thing so its all about what you start with and are using as a reference. its not wrong its just not the way you do it and as for my block technique you must have misunderstood what i was saying because it has nothing to do with up travel.. if you put your car on blocks at the chassis and measure chassis height then measure from the table to your say axles then subtract the difference that is a form of droop measurement. if you look at a rb 6 setup sheet the measurement most guys post for the distance from the shock eyelit to the cartridge is actually how you are setting droop but isnt a measurement of actuall droop
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:03 AM   #5879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
couple things.. when using the ae spur gear and pads the plates DO HIT the spur.. i tuned my kyosho slipper plates with a drill and file,and a old top shaft and made them have a smaller outside diameter..free fix
second i asked about the droop issue about 5 pages back and someone said measuring the shocks doesnt do it. so are you telling me that all the 8th scale buggy setup sheets that tell you what length to set you shocks at to get proper droop are wrong.. i dont really thing so its all about what you start with and are using as a reference. its not wrong its just not the way you do it and as for my block technique you must have misunderstood what i was saying because it has nothing to do with up travel.. if you put your car on blocks at the chassis and measure chassis height then measure from the table to your say axles then subtract the difference that is a form of droop measurement. if you look at a rb 6 setup sheet the measurement most guys post for the distance from the shock eyelit to the cartridge is actually how you are setting droop but isnt a measurement of actuall droop
Yes, measuring shock length doesn't tell you droop at all. If you are hearing that term used, im sorry, but it's incorrect. It tells you one thing, and that is "shock length". If you all follow the same settings on your sheets, then you will get a consistent setup, but you are using the wrong term. I will have time to explain/type it out later, can't right now. Or PM me and I can give you my phone #, and id be happy to talk to you on lunch break today or something.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:28 AM   #5880
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Yes, measuring shock length doesn't tell you droop at all. If you are hearing that term used, im sorry, but it's incorrect. It tells you one thing, and that is "shock length". If you all follow the same settings on your sheets, then you will get a consistent setup, but you are using the wrong term. I will have time to explain/type it out later, can't right now. Or PM me and I can give you my phone #, and id be happy to talk to you on lunch break today or something.
Shock length is only valid if you are running identical ride height and shock positions. I believe 1/8th tend to reference total droop, where as onroad tends to use droop over ride height.
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