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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-22-2013, 11:50 AM   #5821
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For ghea, people are using 30/25 pink and gold or pink and red.
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:09 PM   #5822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
For ghea, people are using 30/25 pink and gold or pink and red.
Same with the avid pistons.
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:17 PM   #5823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertracerdad View Post
I fought this same thing with more than normal "slop" in the steering (compared to our previous RB5's). I tried shimming and found the only way to rid the cars steering slop, was to replace the stock (plastic) steering crank arms & the king pins every once in a while. I also run the UMW701 Alum rack and found that changing the cranks & king pins is what keeps things tight as they both wear a bit (more than can be seen by the eye). Its not the most economical means to "fix" the slop, but it does keep things tight.
My steering is all aluminum. Cranks and arms.
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:14 PM   #5824
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
My steering is all aluminum. Cranks and arms.
Gotcha... I think we are gonna have to live with it on this buggy
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:15 PM   #5825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertracerdad View Post
Gotcha... I think we are gonna have to live with it on this buggy
There has to be a reason and a fix.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:02 PM   #5826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Has anyone been able to fix the slop in the steering? I cant get mine to go away. Im running Exotec steering but it happened with the stock parts as well.
Have you guys with steering slop tried adding a shim between the screw and bearing on the crank arm?

I found a lot of the slop was from the crank arm moving up and down slightly, I found a shim helped the slop a bit
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:05 PM   #5827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
why wouldnt you just measure full shock length like we do on 8th scale? seems a heck of a lot more simple.. i like the keep it simple stupid approach.. and you could always have blocks machined that you would put under the chassis with no wheels on the car and take your ride height and measure to the lowest point on the arm. then adjust eye lit till both sides are equal.
Because that isn't droop.. it's shock length.... and using blocks isn't droop, it's downstops. Different.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:22 PM   #5828
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Capt, where on the chassis should I measure ride height? And just drop it, or role it back and forth a little?
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:49 PM   #5829
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just an update guys, took the car to a local racer that I know, Within 5 minutes he had it dialed in. I had the diff to loose and the slipper a little loose. Now the car is perfect!!!
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:17 AM   #5830
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Just curious.. do the pros like Tebo, Maefield, etc build new cars for every big race? Is it part of the event that everyone needs to build a new vehicle? Reason I'm asking is that from all the photos I see, it looks like they build their cars at the race. How many kits do these guys go through a year?
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:36 AM   #5831
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Got a question but not sure if I should have it here or the RB5 thread.

I have a RB5 with a +13mm chassis extension which should make this the same length a RB6 (which is why I'm here) and I figured a lot of RB5 guys probably migrated to this new chassis.

I'm having a bit of trouble getting the rear end to hook up. Running on a clay track that is pretty sticky but does get dusty so I usually run JConcepts 3D for rear tires and Suburbs after fresh watering or if its not dusty that day.

I'm new to racing so I've been running ribs for front tires as recommended to me by some guys at the track being the front Scrubs I got with my roller were hooking up too much and breaking the rear end loose.

Now that I've gotten it setup a little better (along with my driving) I'm needing a little more steering as it pushes pretty hard going into turns. I looked at the RB5 thread and saw a lot of people recommended at least 14g of weight up front which is what I did. Now with the chassis extension and the scrubs its biting a bit much and breaking the rear end loose in corners again and the ribs are not hooking up enough in the front.

Not sure if I should be looking for a front tire between Scrubs and ribs or if I need a little bit more of setup change. Thinking next time I go to the track I'm going to try the Scrubs again and remove the 7g weight I have left in the front bulk head and see if that calms down the front traction enough.

This is my current setup, if anyone could give me a few ideas I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do a few more novice races and then move to stock buggy and want to get it tuned in a little better before making the jump.

30# shock oil front and rear, pink xgear front springs, red xgear rears
+13mm chassis extension
7g front bulk head weight
7g weight on the diff case
1mm shimmed roll center (I think there are actually 1mm shims all around IIRC)
front shocks in middle hole
rears shocks in outside hole
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:32 AM   #5832
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Default steering slop

Hello there folks,

I believe the slop comes from repeated articulation of the steering bellcranks and minute impacts from normal driving.

I've driven my RB6 since it's global launch and am still using the original bellcranks with minimal slop.

My RB6 is built with an "on-servo" servo saver. Had to grind off a little off a little bit of chassis (the front brace mounting post) but it was well worth the mod.

I used a Futaba 9551 servo with a T.O.P. medium servo saver.

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Old 03-23-2013, 11:21 AM   #5833
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Getting out of RC to finish my drag bug. If anybody is interested...

Kyosho RB6 with a TON of extras and nip spares!!
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:24 PM   #5834
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Ok, so someone was saying the avid/VTS combo fits, what backing plate are you using? the one from my B4 spaces it so far out, there is no way you can thread the nut/spring combo on. I could just dremel off the lip, but I'm curious if there is another plate that is being used. I ended up using the standard b4 setup for now.

I only changed a few things, played with battery forward/back and rear hubs fwd/back (after going back to the stock 0's). Car was still really good, there is only one section of the track I could use some more on power steering on, the rest just getting the right line/timing. I settled on battery fwd (technically this is the middle setting) and hubs back.
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:38 PM   #5835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by platinumjason View Post
Got a question but not sure if I should have it here or the RB5 thread.

I have a RB5 with a +13mm chassis extension which should make this the same length a RB6 (which is why I'm here) and I figured a lot of RB5 guys probably migrated to this new chassis.

I'm having a bit of trouble getting the rear end to hook up. Running on a clay track that is pretty sticky but does get dusty so I usually run JConcepts 3D for rear tires and Suburbs after fresh watering or if its not dusty that day.

I'm new to racing so I've been running ribs for front tires as recommended to me by some guys at the track being the front Scrubs I got with my roller were hooking up too much and breaking the rear end loose.

Now that I've gotten it setup a little better (along with my driving) I'm needing a little more steering as it pushes pretty hard going into turns. I looked at the RB5 thread and saw a lot of people recommended at least 14g of weight up front which is what I did. Now with the chassis extension and the scrubs its biting a bit much and breaking the rear end loose in corners again and the ribs are not hooking up enough in the front.

Not sure if I should be looking for a front tire between Scrubs and ribs or if I need a little bit more of setup change. Thinking next time I go to the track I'm going to try the Scrubs again and remove the 7g weight I have left in the front bulk head and see if that calms down the front traction enough.

This is my current setup, if anyone could give me a few ideas I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do a few more novice races and then move to stock buggy and want to get it tuned in a little better before making the jump.

30# shock oil front and rear, pink xgear front springs, red xgear rears
+13mm chassis extension
7g front bulk head weight
7g weight on the diff case
1mm shimmed roll center (I think there are actually 1mm shims all around IIRC)
front shocks in middle hole
rears shocks in outside hole

If you are running at BFG, try Barcodes (clay) or Panther Bobcats on the front with AKA red inserts. The barcodes (wider tire patch) will have more grip than the Bobcats. Also you might want to try Panther Rattlers (clay) on the rear. Another rear tire is Brocodes (clay). You might want to run 35/30 on shock oil.

Turbo
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