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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-21-2013, 10:16 AM   #5791
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
this is going to sound strange but how do you adjust the droop, since there is no screws in the arms that would touch the chassis?
Adding or removing internal limiters in the shocks.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:27 AM   #5792
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for those of you who is running 17.5, are you guys running mid motor? If so, how do u like it compared to rear motor?

To run mid-motor, do all you need is the extra gear? Or more?
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:33 AM   #5793
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Default Anti-squat

Here is another question, maybe dumb-maybe not.

How is Anti-squat adjusted on the RB6?
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #5794
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Here is another question, maybe dumb-maybe not.

How is Anti-squat adjusted on the RB6?

With adding/removing shims under the rear suspension mounts. However, i've only seen setup sheets that take away anti-squat by adding .5mm under the RR block. Doesn't adding shim under RF aid in rear traction when the car is under power ie beginning of the straightaway? Something I've wanted to mess with.

Another question, what is the result of a setup with a higher roll center in the rear but a lower rollcenter on the front? Seen lots of setups like that. My theory with this setup is that the car is going to roll less with high speed turns and roll more during low speed turns.

Last edited by HalfManHalfGod; 03-21-2013 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:40 PM   #5795
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Help please. Spur and pinion size. Running a race with my 9.5 motor. Any suggestion/starting point for spur/pinion size? thanks.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:51 PM   #5796
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
Adding or removing internal limiters in the shocks.
Shock ends too. The rb6 comes 3 different sizes.
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:08 PM   #5797
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Originally Posted by shark2288 View Post
Shock ends too. The rb6 comes 3 different sizes.
And how far down you thread the shock ends. You don't want them too loose where they can strip out, but you do have 3 or so turns on or off the shaft to fine tune your droop. Quicker and easier than using/removing small limiters. In other words, use limiters and shock end sizes to get you to your "middle" setting or "ballpark" droop.. then screw in or screw out your shock end to find tune.
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:49 PM   #5798
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
for those of you who is running 17.5, are you guys running mid motor? If so, how do u like it compared to rear motor?

To run mid-motor, do all you need is the extra gear? Or more?
few run this car mid motor even in stock. I just flipped my car to mid as its being set up for stock and plan on MAKING it work. played with it out in the street and have to say that I dont think ill have too many issues once on the track.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:58 PM   #5799
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I'm looking into buiding a complete extra tranny. The manual shows the motor centering piece (parts callout bubble 54, Pg. 20, step 20 in the manual) as part um508c. But, parts tree um508c does not have this piece on it, along with the four plastic spacers (parts callout bubble 55) that go on the 3x35 screws for the trans. From what I can tell, those pieces are actually part um523. What's the deal with this? I'm sure I'm overlooking something.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:28 PM   #5800
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Originally Posted by HalfManHalfGod View Post
With adding/removing shims under the rear suspension mounts. However, i've only seen setup sheets that take away anti-squat by adding .5mm under the RR block. Doesn't adding shim under RF aid in rear traction when the car is under power ie beginning of the straightaway? Something I've wanted to mess with.

Another question, what is the result of a setup with a higher roll center in the rear but a lower rollcenter on the front? Seen lots of setups like that. My theory with this setup is that the car is going to roll less with high speed turns and roll more during low speed turns.
The shim is added under the RR block. If you were to add one under the RF block you would add anti-squat which would increase forward traction. I don't know if you are even able to add one there though.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:30 PM   #5801
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I do it the long way since you're not really adjusting it very often, check ride height, then sit the car on a stand, and keep raising it until the tires are barely touching, and re-measure.
I hold up my hand and admit I haven't the foggiest what you're on about. Barely touching what? Low car stand? High car stand?
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:03 PM   #5803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfManHalfGod View Post
With adding/removing shims under the rear suspension mounts. However, i've only seen setup sheets that take away anti-squat by adding .5mm under the RR block. Doesn't adding shim under RF aid in rear traction when the car is under power ie beginning of the straightaway? Something I've wanted to mess with.

Another question, what is the result of a setup with a higher roll center in the rear but a lower rollcenter on the front? Seen lots of setups like that. My theory with this setup is that the car is going to roll less with high speed turns and roll more during low speed turns.
I know that on my shortcourse truck I lowered the rear roll center.. This gave m truck less rear traction allowing it to slide around corners and traction roll less in the sweeper and very high grip sections. So... I would expect the opposite to take place here. Locking in the rear more and giving more grip. Last night the track was slick and I was sliding around and swapping ends so I lowered the rear link, which raised the roll center and gave me a bit more grip = less sliding out and more side bite and grip

Question: are the ghea 1.3 x4hole pistons similar to the 4 hole 55's? Besides the taper?
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:26 PM   #5804
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I hold up my hand and admit I haven't the foggiest what you're on about. Barely touching what? Low car stand? High car stand?
You want to measure the difference between ride height and chassis height at full droop. So i set the car on the stand, and then put something under the middle of the chassis until the tires are barely touching. Now measure under the chassis to get max height and calculate the difference. This is called the droop over ride height method, if you find blocks that work, your numbers will be different.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:15 PM   #5805
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
I know that on my shortcourse truck I lowered the rear roll center.. This gave m truck less rear traction allowing it to slide around corners and traction roll less in the sweeper and very high grip sections. So... I would expect the opposite to take place here. Locking in the rear more and giving more grip. Last night the track was slick and I was sliding around and swapping ends so I lowered the rear link, which raised the roll center and gave me a bit more grip = less sliding out and more side bite and grip

Question: are the ghea 1.3 x4hole pistons similar to the 4 hole 55's? Besides the taper?

Found the answer to my question:

All things being equal, decreasing the front roll stiffness will decrease understeer/increase oversteer. Increasing front roll stiffness will increase understeer/decrease oversteer.

The opposite is true at the back. Increasing roll stiffness will increase oversteer/decrease understeer while decreasing roll stiffness will increase understeer/decrease oversteer.
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