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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-20-2013, 03:49 PM   #5776
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+1
It's like running the straight arms with the NCG dropdowns. All it does is lower the shock mount
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:56 PM   #5777
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+1
It's like running the straight arms with the NCG dropdowns. All it does is lower the shock mount
Yes.. but also changes the "angle" of the mounting holes in relation to the angle of the arm, which lets you change holes without changing droop. On the RB5 arms, changing holes lowers or raises your droop. Inner hole more droop, outer hole less droop.

When changing between these arms guys, make sure you set the car up with the SAME droop.. otherwise the what you feel on the track isn't coming from having a different arm (whether it be mechanical grip, or a geometry change), but rather increasing or decreasing droop. (which you can do all on your own without changing arms)
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:01 PM   #5778
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I am interested in switching to the 521 rear arms. A page or so back, someone mentioned that you need to change to medium shock ends to achieve the proper droop. Does anyone know what the part number is for medium shock ends?
Tebo uses the small ones!
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:26 PM   #5779
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The rb5 arms also bring the wheelbase forward 1mm when running in the middle hub position, compared to the rb6 arms in middle position.
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:38 PM   #5780
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The rb5 arms also bring the wheelbase forward 1mm when running in the middle hub position, compared to the rb6 arms in middle position.
I think just1more measured this and found them to be identical. But if this is the case, then once again, here is one more thing that will lead you to believe the arms themselves give you more rear traction, when it fact it's just a shorter wheelbase from the rear (which gives more rear traction), which you can achieve without changing arms.

Can anybody confirm?
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-20-2013 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:01 PM   #5781
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Capt. What does the spacer under the front suspension mount do? I know it changes the roll center, but does adding the spacer give more or less steering?
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:36 PM   #5782
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Capt. What does the spacer under the front suspension mount do? I know it changes the roll center, but does adding the spacer give more or less steering?
Iv tried with the .5, and with 0, and I can't feel a difference. Technically, the more shim you run, the more mid corner steering you should gain as the roll center will be slightly lower. I am planning on trying the 1.0 this week.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:02 AM   #5783
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Capt are you still running 30 deg front caster? Im running 25/0 but am a little twitchy, trying to smooth that out.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:02 AM   #5784
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come on guys. draw a picture if you need to but the arm pins are in the same place for the two rear arms. point a to point b. the arm could be shaped like a pretzel but if the hinge pins are the same distance apart, there is no way for the hub position to change.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:20 AM   #5785
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Default body

I've read about 100 pages and didn't see what body is everyone using? The stock Kyosho or JConcepts Finisher or Proline Bulldog?
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:53 AM   #5786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
I've read about 100 pages and didn't see what body is everyone using? The stock Kyosho or JConcepts Finisher or Proline Bulldog?
Finisher for me
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:59 AM   #5787
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Stock body. Just got another to have painted.
Jcon is cool but thin plastic and the Proline looks like an el camino, just ugly to me
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:48 AM   #5788
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Does anyone know who makes a droop gauge for these things? Similar to what the sedan guys use.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:56 AM   #5789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Does anyone know who makes a droop gauge for these things? Similar to what the sedan guys use.
I do it the long way since you're not really adjusting it very often, check ride height, then sit the car on a stand, and keep raising it until the tires are barely touching, and re-measure.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:10 AM   #5790
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this is going to sound strange but how do you adjust the droop, since there is no screws in the arms that would touch the chassis?
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