R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Like Tree6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-19-2013, 05:21 PM   #5761
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 443
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
Am I the only one that feels the opposite is true? The V2 has far more side bite, but less forward bite. The V1 can really put the power down, but really free the rear up when cornering.
At my track, everyone who ran barcodes, used v1. I'm pretty sure it was because it had better side bite.
shark2288 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 07:19 PM   #5762
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 1,799
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

finally finished the build here are a couple of pics



__________________
Thanks to my sponsors:
My Credit Card
Speedychris22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 07:52 PM   #5763
Tech Elite
 
B00t13g's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,041
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

What dictates how you decide on what compound to run up front? I mean you could go super soft to get more steering, but why not make up for it with setup? Looking for how everyone decides on their front compound for 2wd?
__________________
Mackenzie Meyercord
Rc America, Xray, MOTIV, Avid, Team EAM, Apex Rc Pro Shop, Pro Spec USA, Sanwa, RSD
B00t13g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 09:23 PM   #5764
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,081
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
Am I the only one that feels the opposite is true? The V2 has far more side bite, but less forward bite. The V1 can really put the power down, but really free the rear up when cornering.
On our track the V1 provides FAR better side bite, equal forward bite. You run the V2s if you want the rear end to free up.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2013, 11:21 PM   #5765
Tech Regular
 
Just1More's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 426
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
__________________
Mark Clark
RB6
B44.1
TC6.1
Just1More is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 12:35 AM   #5766
Tech Master
 
silvalis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,545
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
Wouldn't it make more sense to measure in a direct line from pin to pin for the RB6 arm?
__________________
2013 QLD Champion Potato Sack Racer
silvalis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 02:22 AM   #5767
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 2,460
Trader Rating: 109 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to kwiksi
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
On our track the V1 provides FAR better side bite, equal forward bite. You run the V2s if you want the rear end to free up.
+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
Here is the RB6 vs. RB5 521 arms, both are the exact same length hinge pin to hinge pin.
Still not sure what the 521-1 arms offer in terms of performance. I have a set I could try, but I like the way my rear is feelinng with v1Barcodes and don't get much time to test on race day.
kwiksi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 05:26 AM   #5768
Tech Master
 
Johnn27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,586
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
+1



Still not sure what the 521-1 arms offer in terms of performance. I have a set I could try, but I like the way my rear is feelinng with v1Barcodes and don't get much time to test on race day.
I built and raced my car for the first 3 or 4 race days with gull wing arms and it was ok but the rear ride height was really low when you tried to get the rear drive shafts to level out as I adjusted the ride height.

I then changed over to the 521 arms and I noticed a difference in just ride height right away. It seemed to me anyway that the gull arms brought the rear of the car down too much and I think ride height on these cars, especially in the rear is critical to handling.

other than that I hear the 521's calm the car down and give you better roll center speed. More testing this weekend.
Johnn27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 05:58 AM   #5769
Tech Regular
 
kyle3333's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I am interested in switching to the 521 rear arms. A page or so back, someone mentioned that you need to change to medium shock ends to achieve the proper droop. Does anyone know what the part number is for medium shock ends?
__________________
JConcepts UpGrade RC
kyle3333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 09:56 AM   #5770
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,081
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle3333 View Post
I am interested in switching to the 521 rear arms. A page or so back, someone mentioned that you need to change to medium shock ends to achieve the proper droop. Does anyone know what the part number is for medium shock ends?
post #1
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 09:56 AM   #5771
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: All 48 states...
Posts: 2,053
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone have a boosted 13.5 setup for the Orion Esc? Just need to get in the ballpark and I can workout the rest. Thanks!
Gitsum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 09:58 AM   #5772
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,081
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
I built and raced my car for the first 3 or 4 race days with gull wing arms and it was ok but the rear ride height was really low when you tried to get the rear drive shafts to level out as I adjusted the ride height.

I then changed over to the 521 arms and I noticed a difference in just ride height right away. It seemed to me anyway that the gull arms brought the rear of the car down too much and I think ride height on these cars, especially in the rear is critical to handling.

other than that I hear the 521's calm the car down and give you better roll center speed. More testing this weekend.
The only difference between the 521s, and the gullwing arms, are how much/easily they flex/twist (and the fact that droop doesn't change on the gullwing arms when you change your lower shock mounting position). If you didn't change your shock collar placement and your shock ends to match droop from one type of arm to the other type of arm, that is what change you saw. The arm has nothing to do with ride height otherwise.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 11:25 AM   #5773
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,749
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
The only difference between the 521s, and the gullwing arms, are how much/easily they flex/twist (and the fact that droop doesn't change on the gullwing arms when you change your lower shock mounting position). If you didn't change your shock collar placement and your shock ends to match droop from one type of arm to the other type of arm, that is what change you saw. The arm has nothing to do with ride height otherwise.
I believe he is right because of the big difference in hub height on the gullwing and since he is referencing ride height by being bones level. If he set ride height by the chassis, the bones will be angled differently with the 2 arms.
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #5774
Tech Elite
 
eper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: new milford, CT.
Posts: 2,599
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

if you guys are using the tebo set up with the 521 arms you should actually be running the short shock ends. do to the way the setup sheet is layed out i have seen quite a few people look at the sheet wrong and not use the correct shock end
__________________
new milford ct,
WOLCOTT HOBBIES.. TEAM SCREAM..PRO-LINE RACING,,RC Truck Stop, and FTM grip
I CALL IT HOW I SEE IT!!!!!
eper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2013, 01:43 PM   #5775
Super Moderator
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,081
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I believe he is right because of the big difference in hub height on the gullwing and since he is referencing ride height by being bones level. If he set ride height by the chassis, the bones will be angled differently with the 2 arms.
The hub isn't higher with the gullwing, the shock mounting is just lower.. which is why you need longer shock ends. You can line up the hingepin holes in both arms, and everything lines up the exact same (geometry wise), except for how low the mounting holes are on the gullwing... which is why you run long shock ends with one arm, and shorts with the other. The angled section of the gullwing arm is so that droop doesn't change when you change mounting hole.

So when you switch to the rb5 arms, you run shorter ends, and move the shock collar up the same amount. Ride height doesn't change.
__________________
A big thanks to my sponsors:
- Fantom Racing - www.fantomracing.com -
- Fusion Graphix- www.fusiongraphix.com -
- RCSpecialties -

Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-20-2013 at 03:54 PM.
Cpt.America is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread. old_skoolie Australian Racing 22939 Today 01:36 AM
Island Raceway & Hobby (IRH), Lindenhurst, NY - Indoor Off-Road Track in Long Island Asharus Northeast Racing Forum 15013 06-22-2017 04:17 PM
Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread Drift_Buggy Electric Off-Road 14641 11-10-2015 08:28 AM
Kyosho Ultima SC aeRayls Electric Off-Road 2599 04-27-2014 04:30 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:02 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net