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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-15-2013, 06:09 AM   #5671
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so who has a opinion on the guys at cactus running mid motor. i know for a fact that it doesnt work with my home track and mod motor.. for me anyhow. just trying to get some feed back
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:30 AM   #5672
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I guess there is a lot of traction at srs, something with adding sugar to the track. I'm Gona try it out a my track in a few weeks, but we also have a small tight track with med-high traction so it might work. I bet the feel of the car would be good at mid.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:58 AM   #5673
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I tried it out at my track and it worked fine. Probably would be great if I worked on the setup more. There is a guy who runs that way now with success. I switched back just because I prefer the feel of driving rear motor configuration. I am so used to it.
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:06 AM   #5674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
I tried it out at my track and it worked fine. Probably would be great if I worked on the setup more. There is a guy who runs that way now with success. I switched back just because I prefer the feel of driving rear motor configuration. I am so used to it.
Does the car jump differently in mid? I feel like it should want to pop off the jump less.
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Old 03-15-2013, 09:10 AM   #5675
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Off the lip seemed pretty similar after I went to stiffer springs, before i stiffened up at first it was too soft, and not much lift like you thought. I can say it definitely flies nice and level through the air.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:39 AM   #5676
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I find that mid motor cars feel better almost any time the car is neutral throttle rolling), or off throttle. Sweepers, entrances and mids of 180s, jumping, landing, all better with a mid motor car. When traction isn't REALLY REALLY high, they feel WORSE in on-throttle situations where you need to get on the gas early and hard... like maybe a tight 180 that has a tiny run up to a larger jump. You wont be able to put the traction down to get over the jump. What you get is tire sping up the jump face with a kicked out rear-end, and your lap times suffer in general.

Now, if traction becomes high enough where that issue goes away, the mid motor car will excel everywhere on the track. So it depends on the traction level AND the nature of the track (slow and tight, or big and fast with larger sweeping corners) The only time you will really generally see that kind of traction is on a carpet or turf track. I have never heard of adding sugar to a track, but word is, traction at that track is exceedingly high.

Anybody have a video?
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:49 AM   #5677
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I heard it eats tires really fast too
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:55 AM   #5678
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They are using a fertilizer spreader to spread it then watering the track. The first treatment was over 400 lbs of sugar.

We did something similar to a track around here. Traction was high but it would stink very bad for awhile after you apply the sugar. We used corn syrup.

Tire wear is supposed to be astronomical out there this weekend. We did not have any real issues with it on the track we treated. The tires are one 5 min run and done at Cactus this weekend.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:08 PM   #5679
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wow that is a lot of tire wear. i believe that surface is always abrasive. a guy ran mm in 17.5 at my home track which is low traction and i drove it. it actually felt really good. just not sure how it would do in mod. last time i went out and tried a new setup tebos last one i absolutely hated the car. but because of who he is i kept chasing that set up trying to get it to work for me. needless to say it was a complete waste of three weeks. so its really going o take a lot to get me to go through that BS again
as for sugar on the track thats great for outside but would probably cause an ant infestation on a indoor track
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:08 PM   #5680
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http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f..._with_that%3F/

Just an example of tire wear this year...
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:19 PM   #5681
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If that surface is that sticky, why not go with a hard compound to minimize wear? Its just silly to throw good tires out after 1 quali run.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:23 PM   #5682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
If that surface is that sticky, why not go with a hard compound to minimize wear? Its just silly to throw good tires out after 1 quali run.
My understanding is that they are running some of the hardest compounds the tire manufactures make. Proline guys are running MX, JC are running Orange and AKA are running whatever is their hardest.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:49 PM   #5683
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I would kill to have that kind of traction at every big race, but I wouldn't want it for club racing.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:37 PM   #5684
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My home track at Bremerton is lucky to have best of both worlds. We have really high traction with our indoor clay, and almost zero tire wear. A set of gold barcode rear tires will last you a couple months running twice a week. Tire wear is so low, that the problem is actualy breaking them in! I have 3 or 4 hard practice runs on my latest set, and they still look 99% new... (which isn't good, because traction is low until they are broken in)
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:53 PM   #5685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
My home track at Bremerton is lucky to have best of both worlds. We have really high traction with our indoor clay, and almost zero tire wear. A set of gold barcode rear tires will last you a couple months running twice a week. Tire wear is so low, that the problem is actualy breaking them in! I have 3 or 4 hard practice runs on my latest set, and they still look 99% new... (which isn't good, because traction is low until they are broken in)
Why not just sand off the shiney layer?
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