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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-14-2013, 04:33 AM   #5656
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Hey Brandon how do you know if you have bump steer?
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:18 AM   #5657
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There are 2 RF2 (fronts) in the kit, one has a thin sidewall which breaks and you aren't supposed to use and one has a thicker sidewall which is much stronger.

Check your parts
The extra RF2 block(the stronger looking one with counter bores on the top) is for mid motor. It has clearance holes for the screws to pass thru to the mid motor bulkhead which keys into the pivot and holds it all together. If you try to use it for rear motor the screws will not get tight.

Brandon, maybe you can post this on the first thread. I'd hate to see someone struggle with the handling of their car due to antisquat changing from the RF2 block coming loose.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:28 AM   #5658
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The extra RF2 block(the stronger looking one with counter bores on the top) is for mid motor. It has clearance holes for the screws to pass thru to the mid motor bulkhead which keys into the pivot and holds it all together. If you try to use it for rear motor the screws will not get tight.

Brandon, maybe you can post this on the first thread. I'd hate to see someone struggle with the handling of their car due to antisquat changing from the RF2 block coming loose.
Interesting, how can you be the first one to notice that??? I'm running RF and have not tried RF2 yet, but if the skinny one is the only one that works, I'm going to wait until the alum parts are back in stock..
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:31 AM   #5659
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Interesting, how can you be the first one to notice that??? I'm running RF and have not tried RF2 yet, but if the skinny one is the only one that works, I'm going to wait until the alum parts are back in stock..
I actually mentioned this earlier in this thread. I'm a machinist/tool and die maker. I'm fussy about everything but the counterbores on the top gave it away.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:07 AM   #5660
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I actually mentioned this earlier in this thread. I'm a machinist/tool and die maker. I'm fussy about everything but the counterbores on the top gave it away.
Is there room to use a longer screw and a mini nut?
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:26 AM   #5661
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Is there room to use a longer screw and a mini nut?
You might be able to do that using a low profile, non-nylock nut like the ones used on the shock towers. The other problem will be you will lose some motor adjustment. If you're running stock you might have a problem with getting the motor far enough forward to run the gearing that needs to run.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:48 AM   #5662
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Originally Posted by Mike C View Post
You might be able to do that using a low profile, non-nylock nut like the ones used on the shock towers. The other problem will be you will lose some motor adjustment. If you're running stock you might have a problem with getting the motor far enough forward to run the gearing that needs to run.
Ok, you had me confused, you are talking about the rear block, and you are right, there are actually 2 versions of that, but if you follow the manual you should not end up with the wrong one, the thick/skinny RF2 they are talking about is for the front mount, and the only one actually marked RF2, I don't know why the rear ones are not marked.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:31 AM   #5663
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Ok, you had me confused, you are talking about the rear block, and you are right, there are actually 2 versions of that, but if you follow the manual you should not end up with the wrong one, the thick/skinny RF2 they are talking about is for the front mount, and the only one actually marked RF2, I don't know why the rear ones are not marked.
Sorry, i read your post quick and didn't realize you said rf2. I only had one RF2 block with my kits. the other one is the RF(narrow).
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:59 AM   #5664
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Sorry, i read your post quick and didn't realize you said rf2. I only had one RF2 block with my kits. the other one is the RF(narrow).
How can this be?
There should be a total Of 6 blocks in every kit. 2 rf2 loose in te mid motor parts bag. The other 2 rf2 and 2 rf are on a parts tree. The blocks in the bag are the Beefey pair
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:27 AM   #5665
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How can this be?
There should be a total Of 6 blocks in every kit. 2 rf2 loose in te mid motor parts bag. The other 2 rf2 and 2 rf are on a parts tree. The blocks in the bag are the Beefey pair
I guess there is 6. The pivots on the trees are RR/RF(narrow),RR2/RF2(wide). I keep forgetting the other blocks come from the mid motor bag. They are RR2 and RF2. Like I said, i read his post quickly and over looked where he was talking about the front block. I assumed the he was talking about the mid motor RR2 block which won't work in rear motor due to not having enough material for the screw to bite into.
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Last edited by Mike C; 03-14-2013 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 09:28 AM   #5666
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Hey Brandon how do you know if you have bump steer?
Set your toe at 0 degrees with the car sitting at running ride height... press the front end to the ground and see if you have 0, toe in, or toe out. You want to be at 0 with the suspension compressed. You control the "tug" on the steering blocks, which affects toe on compression, by changing the height of the ballstud ON the steering block. If you have bump-in, you need to raise the ball stud. If you have bump-out, you need to lower it.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:07 AM   #5667
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Set your toe at 0 degrees with the car sitting at running ride height... press the front end to the ground and see if you have 0, toe in, or toe out. You want to be at 0 with the suspension compressed. You control the "tug" on the steering blocks, which affects toe on compression, by changing the height of the ballstud ON the steering block. If you have bump-in, you need to raise the ball stud. If you have bump-out, you need to lower it.
thanks brandon makes sense. but outside of this test do you want to be at 0 degrees toe?
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:32 AM   #5668
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thanks brandon makes sense. but outside of this test do you want to be at 0 degrees toe?
I do
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:51 PM   #5669
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thanks brandon makes sense. but outside of this test do you want to be at 0 degrees toe?
Some people use toe in/out as an tuning aid. I usually don't go more than 1 degree either way depending on what I want the car to do.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:54 PM   #5670
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Right on... Thanks for the info guy's
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