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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #5596
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25/-4 was quick and responsive with no loss on the high and low speed sections. With ghea pistons 32.5f and 27.5r losi oil with white front springs and gold rears

i have a an onroad background so i like steering. The track condition was med/high bite but towards the end of the day everyone was loose so that's why i tried 25/-4. If traction was high i would of been rolling for days with that set up!!
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:44 PM   #5597
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i have a an onroad background so i like steering.
My background is all on-road as well ... outdoor asphalt TC is my RC racing class of choice... my home track in Bremerton has an indoor clay track, and an outdoor asphalt onroad track we run 4-5 months a year at. So during the summer, I get to race offroad on Saturdays, and onroad on Sundays
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:58 PM   #5598
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Mid corner, I would start with roll center. Keep the same number of shims, but move your inner link inwards to the middle hole to start.
Already there! I'm really just looking to take away initial steering and move it later in the corner, which is why I was thinking caster.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:57 AM   #5599
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Already there! I'm really just looking to take away initial steering and move it later in the corner, which is why I was thinking caster.
you could raise the axle and that will give your car less front grip entering corners and a little more grip on exit. I would put 1.5mm on the bottom and .5 on top (or do the drastic and go all on the bottom but it will push like a dump truck)
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:35 AM   #5600
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Anyone know who has Gold rear springs in stock? I cant seem to find any.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:26 PM   #5601
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Got to run again this weekend (rare to run 2 weeks in a row), last week I ran the car with 13.5 and ran my b4.1 in 17.5, the B4 was out of action so I put a 17.5 in and ran it. I was very happy with it, I ended up throwing red rears on, and using a set of M4 ghost pins with open cell foam up front over full slick/closed cell. I could probably still use a bit more steering, but at this point I still need to fix driving in a few spots that I can't get the line right every lap. Its sweet to have a car that I don't constantly want a setup change to fix an issue with..

That being said, there are a few small tweaks I want to try when I get time, I don't think I need the .5 rears in 17.5, and I would like to see how adding squat would feel.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:02 PM   #5602
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That being said, there are a few small tweaks I want to try when I get time, I don't think I need the .5 rears in 17.5, and I would like to see how adding squat would feel.
If you are running .5 rear hubs, but want the car to rotate better... the hubs are certainly the first thing you should change out. Sounds like you locked the rear end in too much. Go back to the 0s, you will be golden
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:24 PM   #5603
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He is right on the 0 degree. Dialed.
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:26 PM   #5604
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad View Post
The flat/rear arms UM521, UM521-1 or UM566 work best on higher traction layouts. They lock the rear end in more and provide a more consistent feel in corners. If you do have a track where you can run these, make sure to use the medium rear shock eyelets so you can achieve the correct amount of droop & ride height. Also, you will only have 1mm of spacing between the arm and rear suspension holders (not 2mm like the kit UM713 arms). I tested in front & behind the arm and for 17.5 & 13.5, prefer the 1mm behind the arms (which is to the rear bumper).

Difference between the above three rear arms is:
UM521 = 2 hole Rr arm with RB5 SP Fr arms
UM521-1 = 1 hole Rr arm with RB5 SP2 Fr arms
UM566 = 2 hole Rr arm (same rear as UM521) with RB5 SP2-WC Fr arms
are all these are the exact same length? In other words, are all the rears the same except the shock positions?
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:16 PM   #5605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrorush27 View Post
are all these are the exact same length? In other words, are all the rears the same except the shock positions?
Yes. Even the same length as the Rb6 arms(I verified this)
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:59 PM   #5606
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Yes. Even the same length as the Rb6 arms(I verified this)
Awesome, thank you!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:29 PM   #5607
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Not a professional video or anything, but here is a normal club night race a week ago Saturday. Battled to the end with John Cantrell for all 8 minutes. Other than a few laps, he was ahead of me by 1 or 2 seconds the entire race, until a bobble just one minute before the end of the race where I got him, and held on. (he's a fast bugger!) (this layout is 10x more technical, and more obnoxious, than it looks)

Im the blue/white/orage rb6, with yellow wheels, starting in 2nd.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:52 PM   #5608
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Nice video, looks like a tight technical track. Goes to show, you don't need a big track to have a great race track.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:52 PM   #5609
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What do you use for internal limiters on the big bore shocks?

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Old 03-12-2013, 12:41 AM   #5610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Not a professional video or anything, but here is a normal club night race a week ago Saturday. Battled to the end with John Cantrell for all 8 minutes. Other than a few laps, he was ahead of me by 1 or 2 seconds the entire race, until a bobble just one minute before the end of the race where I got him, and held on. (he's a fast bugger!) (this layout is 10x more technical, and more obnoxious, than it looks)

Im the blue/white/orage rb6, with yellow wheels, starting in 2nd.
hm. Looks like you were carrying less corner speed than him (well, everyone was). Especially noticeable on that last landing before the straight and the one at the end of the straight. Although these looked more like driving lines rather than corner speed...
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