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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-06-2013, 09:16 AM   #5521
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I have a questions regarding gearing. I am trying to understand how to figure it out. Is there a page where I can get detailed explanation.
Gear your car for fastest lap times, within the motor's heat limit. The best place to look for explanations would be doing a forum search, or a google search. Or ask your question right here if you can' find what you're looking for.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:28 AM   #5522
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I needed more torque to clear the big jump after the 180 at my track, so i geared down to 31/69... but didnt seem to do much, i got a little bit more torque out of it. thinking i am going to go back to 33/69. i asked a few ppl at the track who seemed to be clearing it with no problem. they didnt have much to say except " you shouldnt have any trouble" my slipper and diff are set correctly, but i cant seem to get the sweet spot?
running a 80c shorty with a d3.5. i just bought the gen2 17.5. maybe this will make a difference? any suggestions.?
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:40 AM   #5523
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I needed more torque to clear the big jump after the 180 at my track, so i geared down to 31/69... but didnt seem to do much, i got a little bit more torque out of it. thinking i am going to go back to 33/69. i asked a few ppl at the track who seemed to be clearing it with no problem. they didnt have much to say except " you shouldnt have any trouble" my slipper and diff are set correctly, but i cant seem to get the sweet spot?
running a 80c shorty with a d3.5. i just bought the gen2 17.5. maybe this will make a difference? any suggestions.?
In a D3.5?

What battery are you running? (what does it weigh)
1- gear at 69/31
2- run a 12.5 HT rotor
3- run end bell timing at 20degrees (all the way advanced on the can).

If you are running a super heavy pack, that might be part of the problem. The 6 is a heavy car, and for 17.5 stock, tuning with weight is super important.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:48 AM   #5524
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
I needed more torque to clear the big jump after the 180 at my track, so i geared down to 31/69... but didnt seem to do much, i got a little bit more torque out of it. thinking i am going to go back to 33/69. i asked a few ppl at the track who seemed to be clearing it with no problem. they didnt have much to say except " you shouldnt have any trouble" my slipper and diff are set correctly, but i cant seem to get the sweet spot?
running a 80c shorty with a d3.5. i just bought the gen2 17.5. maybe this will make a difference? any suggestions.?
where were you able to get a 31T pinion and 69t spur gear? I see Kyosho does not make any that size. Are you using a different company?
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:07 AM   #5525
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where were you able to get a 31T pinion and 69t spur gear? I see Kyosho does not make any that size. Are you using a different company?
Avid makes the spur gear as does kinmbrough. Rw and Robinson make the pinions.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:11 AM   #5526
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Avid makes the spur gear as does kinmbrough. Rw and Robinson make the pinions.
You will need B4 pads for this setup though, afaik no one makes spurs that use kyosho pads.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:14 AM   #5527
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I wish they did make spurs for our pads. I like how they lock into the spur makes swapping spurs a breeze.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:30 AM   #5528
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Yes I run the kimbrough spur and the ae high torq pads.
The battery's are both shortys one is 60c the other 80c both brand new with this car. One is 218 grams the other is 214 grams. I just got took out the d3.5 because its getting phased out at the track,but it was nearly new and powerful. I put in a new gen2 yesterday but haven't run it yet. I hope this motor has more grunt, but hmmmm maybe a high torque rotor? I will advance the timing to 30*.
Hopefully test tonight if not tomorrow.

Wouldn't 31pinion be better for torque and clearing jumps? Rather than the 33.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:48 AM   #5529
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The battery's are both shortys one is 60c the other 80c both brand new with this car. One is 218 grams the other is 214 grams.
Sounds fine. I run 205 gram lipos... sweet spot for weight. The ~220s will be better for Tacoma

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but hmmmm maybe a high torque rotor? I will advance the timing to 30*.
the HT rotor is the way to go, but it's not necessary. If you are still running your endbell timing at 0, that is the problem. Advance it as far as it will go on the can (it will not advance as far as the markings tell you it can, on the motor.)

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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
Wouldn't 31pinion be better for torque and clearing jumps? Rather than the 33.
Nope... gearing lower just SHIFTS the torque band to a lower speed. You don't gain or subtract torque by gearing up or gearing down... you just move it. But if you advance your timing all the way up, and stay with 31, you will have no problem clearing anything anybody else is clearing.

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Old 03-06-2013, 12:20 PM   #5530
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^^ I would also add turn up your EPA if you haven't all ready^^

also it could be a set up issue as in your not getting enough "pop" from the rear? (I know you're running BC's set up but you could try going stiffer in the rear)
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:50 PM   #5531
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thanks guys, i did go to red springs in the rear and it did help a bit, gave me more pop off the jumps, a little more lift. I had my timing up at ~10* previousley. I will crank it up tonight!

what would be the differnce between between 31 and 33 with max timing? mainly temperatures im guessing? otherwise, wouldnt you just want to run the 33 all the time brandon?
i had believed it was top speed before this conversation?
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:04 PM   #5532
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thanks guys, i did go to red springs in the rear and it did help a bit, gave me more pop off the jumps, a little more lift. I had my timing up at ~10* previousley. I will crank it up tonight!

what would be the differnce between between 31 and 33 with max timing? mainly temperatures im guessing? otherwise, wouldnt you just want to run the 33 all the time brandon?
i had believed it was top speed before this conversation?
Yep, if you are only at 10 on the timing, you will see a noticable improvement maxing out the timing. You CAN run 33, but from my testing, it would be slightly over-geared for your track. Tacoma is tight and slow... so gearing down to keep the car in the torque band will yield better lap times. Id gear at 33 for a larger track where the car is closer to top speed more of the time.

Trust me.. wire it back in, run 69/31 with the endbell timing turned up all the way, and check your performance on your lipo's second charge of the day and see what you get.

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Old 03-06-2013, 01:54 PM   #5533
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You don't gain or subtract torque by gearing up or gearing down... you just move it.
-brandon
Phrasing.

It's called torque multiplication. Google it or something.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:00 PM   #5534
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Thanks dudes! This is the best thread that I've followed so far
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:51 PM   #5535
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Has anyone tried this stuff? I know there is a thicker version, but I wondered if this would hold up at least for indoor racing. Plus it was the only stuff I could find wide enought to do the ZX-5.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005YS..._ya_os_product
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