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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-04-2013, 07:29 PM   #5491
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Scrubs front and suburb rear both in MC work great at CRCRC in Columbus OH too. Before the suburb fronts came out, which usually grab too much, scrubs were the proline "match" to the suburb rears.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:36 PM   #5492
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Is anyone running the 521-1 arms with narrow suspension hangers?
I tried the arms today and ended up with a super high ride height when using the long eyelets. I was able to get 23mm of ride height using the medium eye lets. I noticed tebos setup uses a shock length of 27mn with the short eyelets, but I was unable to get that without the shock shaft hitting the pivot balls and binding it all up. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. Also is everyone just shimming the rear hubs in the middle with those arms?
The setup I was running was based off of Brandon Collins setup was awesome for stock buggy but was terrible for mod. Not enough steering or traction.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:33 PM   #5493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
I tried the arms today and ended up with a super high ride height when using the long eyelets. I was able to get 23mm of ride height using the medium eye lets. I noticed tebos setup uses a shock length of 27mn with the short eyelets, but I was unable to get that without the shock shaft hitting the pivot balls and binding it all up. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here.
Probably internal limiters to get that length.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:35 PM   #5494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Is anyone running the 521-1 arms with narrow suspension hangers?
I tried the arms today and ended up with a super high ride height when using the long eyelets. I was able to get 23mm of ride height using the medium eye lets. I noticed tebos setup uses a shock length of 27mn with the short eyelets, but I was unable to get that without the shock shaft hitting the pivot balls and binding it all up. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. Also is everyone just shimming the rear hubs in the middle with those arms?
The setup I was running was based off of Brandon Collins setup was awesome for stock buggy but was terrible for mod. Not enough steering or traction.
I'm not sure what the shock length is on my shocks but I run the 521-1 arms and the short eyelet, 1mm limiter. It screws all the way onto the threads despite me thinking I was going to over do it the first time I put them on. Very little droop, arms basically go flat. You shouldn't have any problem getting a 24mm ride height, then you'll have about ~6 more mm of downtravel past that.

I've been running the hubs spaced forward but need to try them in the middle and all the way back, although the car feels awesome as is.

Try the Cody Turner setup but with the 521-1 arms, wide hangers, and 2nd hole from the inside for the top of the rear shocks. That's what I'm running and the car is dialed for mod. Lots of rear bite, car is very composed when you push it hard. It also seems very balanced front to rear, can't ask for much more than that.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:56 PM   #5495
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Where can the Cody Turner Smac Track setup be found? Petitrc has a bad link.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:58 PM   #5496
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I find it strange that you are using two different kinds of tires front and back. Not only are you using very different side bite, but also different compounds. And maybe I am just ignorant to it as the tracks I run at here, we all run the same tire front and back, almost all the time.... but it would seem to ME, that you would first and foremost want to tune and set the car up so that it handles the way you want it to with matching tires... and you would only use miss-matched tires to address a setup issue you can't fix otherwise.

Is that what most guys at your track run? burbs back, scrubs front? Tracks and clay are SO different!!... scrubs absolutely don't work in the slightest at my tracks. (unless you want to scrub speed!)

Im glad you got the tires set... that is always job #1 before you worry about finer level adjustments on setup. Not only do you need the proper tires, but you need to get a set broken in properly first, and THEN take note of how the car drives... THEN work on those finer level changes on setup.

Traction is up way at my track, and with the increased rear traction, I am able to dial back in more steering. 30/ -4 is going to be the most aggressive steering you can get. 30 kick-up will give the best off-throttle forward weight transfer, and the low overall caster will give the most infield steering. I am running this specifically because my current layout has no highspeed steering sections where more caster is used... it's all slower speed turns.

But like always, I am still playing and fudging and learning where the car likes to be. I don't think I will keep 30/ -4 for long before changing again... track conditions (right now)... are changing too fast at my track to really nail something down. (kind of frustrating). We have another track change starting this coming weekend too, so its back to square 1. Can't finalize a setup until the clay starts to become consistent.... BUT, I am glad we are doing a track build for a change as our current layout is almost no fun at all.
just some feedback on the tires. at WCRC (reedy race track) barcodes up front with burbs out back is very very common and having played alot with my tires and inserts on my rb5 i do find codes upfront well broken in provide a touch more steering than scrubs and are more consistent through the corner. and the burbs for the front I just dont care for. Interesting when i drove a B4.1 codes front and back were much faster for me. looking to get my hands on a set of ions to try heard great things about them and sound to be the ticket.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:02 AM   #5497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Is anyone running the 521-1 arms with narrow suspension hangers?
I tried the arms today and ended up with a super high ride height when using the long eyelets. I was able to get 23mm of ride height using the medium eye lets. I noticed tebos setup uses a shock length of 27mn with the short eyelets, but I was unable to get that without the shock shaft hitting the pivot balls and binding it all up. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. Also is everyone just shimming the rear hubs in the middle with those arms?
The setup I was running was based off of Brandon Collins setup was awesome for stock buggy but was terrible for mod. Not enough steering or traction.
We run the medium eyelet with those arms at our track.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:30 AM   #5498
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Does anyone have an aluminum rf2 they can sell me?
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:57 AM   #5499
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Quote:
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looking to get my hands on a set of ions to try heard great things about them and sound to be the ticket.
yeah! i haven't run the ions yet on my track, but a tire with a nice low pin like that, looks good. Side bite seems (looks) like it might be inbetween a bar code and a suburb... but not sure. Also not sure about the compound. The only downside, is they are expensive!
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:04 AM   #5500
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I hear they have more side bite and that seems to be where the races are won... In corners in the infield.

I am looking for a little more steering, runnin the B.Collins setup and like it a lot. Should I try dropping down to 25* for the front block and maybe 2 or 4* castor? I am running 30* now, will I get more by going down to maybe 29 or 27 or 25*?
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:13 AM   #5501
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
Where can the Cody Turner Smac Track setup be found? Petitrc has a bad link.
I've been wanting to know that too. I'm running this setup http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...WCRC201212.pdf with the wide blocks and 521-1 arms like he is in the pictures for Smac Track. I noticed his front camber link is a bit different now though.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:30 AM   #5502
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I wonder why so little droop on the Tebo set up?
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:54 AM   #5503
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I hear they have more side bite and that seems to be where the races are won... In corners in the infield.

I am looking for a little more steering, runnin the B.Collins setup and like it a lot. Should I try dropping down to 25* for the front block and maybe 2 or 4* castor? I am running 30* now, will I get more by going down to maybe 29 or 27 or 25*?
More steering, go back to the red springs, and drop down to something like 25/2 caster. It will take a tiny bit away from the sweeper, and add it to the infield.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:17 AM   #5504
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More steering, go back to the red springs, and drop down to something like 25/2 caster. It will take a tiny bit away from the sweeper, and add it to the infield.

Have you tried laying the front shocks in all the way? how come no one runs that?
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:29 AM   #5505
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Thanks Brandon. I have gone back to reds at the moment already and it felt good. This car has so much traction, I feel like I gave none up goin from golds to reds. I will give the castor change a shot. Thanks guys

Edit. Haven't tried laying shocks down yet, just because nobody does it like you said. Probably worth a try tho
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