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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-04-2013, 09:27 AM   #5476
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Will the proline rb5 wheels fit work on a rb6 with same offset?
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:45 AM   #5477
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Will the proline rb5 wheels fit work on a rb6 with same offset?
Yes, you will need lo profile serrated wheel nuts for the rear.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:16 AM   #5478
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Yes, you will need lo profile serrated wheel nuts for the rear.
Durango nuts are cheap and I have never had one come loose. No need to tighten the hell out of them either.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:52 AM   #5479
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Durango nuts are cheap and I have never had one come loose. No need to tighten the hell out of them either.
traaxas has them as well and can be found in non racey hobby shops.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:53 AM   #5480
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From the mains on Sunday. Buggy was straight dialed!
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:12 PM   #5481
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[IMG]From the mains on Sunday. Buggy was straight dialed!
Looking good!! I similar picture was taken of my buggy on the grid this weekend....

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Old 03-04-2013, 03:13 PM   #5482
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Capt. I have been using your set up for a couple weeks not. Before i had mentioned it was too aggresive. But you were right i just needed to get my tires sorted out. Scrub on the front, and Suburbs on the back is working great.

I saw you have gone to 30/-4. I think i am going to try less castor also. Is there a reason to go to 30/-4, instead of 25/0?
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:14 PM   #5483
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Capt. I have been using your set up for a couple weeks not. Before i had mentioned it was too aggresive. But you were right i just needed to get my tires sorted out. Scrub on the front, and Suburbs on the back is working great.

I saw you have gone to 30/-4. I think i am going to try less castor also. Is there a reason to go to 30/-4, instead of 25/0?
different kick-up
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:52 PM   #5484
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Capt. I have been using your set up for a couple weeks not. Before i had mentioned it was too aggresive. But you were right i just needed to get my tires sorted out. Scrub on the front, and Suburbs on the back is working great.

I saw you have gone to 30/-4. I think i am going to try less castor also. Is there a reason to go to 30/-4, instead of 25/0?
I find it strange that you are using two different kinds of tires front and back. Not only are you using very different side bite, but also different compounds. And maybe I am just ignorant to it as the tracks I run at here, we all run the same tire front and back, almost all the time.... but it would seem to ME, that you would first and foremost want to tune and set the car up so that it handles the way you want it to with matching tires... and you would only use miss-matched tires to address a setup issue you can't fix otherwise.

Is that what most guys at your track run? burbs back, scrubs front? Tracks and clay are SO different!!... scrubs absolutely don't work in the slightest at my tracks. (unless you want to scrub speed!)

Im glad you got the tires set... that is always job #1 before you worry about finer level adjustments on setup. Not only do you need the proper tires, but you need to get a set broken in properly first, and THEN take note of how the car drives... THEN work on those finer level changes on setup.

Traction is up way at my track, and with the increased rear traction, I am able to dial back in more steering. 30/ -4 is going to be the most aggressive steering you can get. 30 kick-up will give the best off-throttle forward weight transfer, and the low overall caster will give the most infield steering. I am running this specifically because my current layout has no highspeed steering sections where more caster is used... it's all slower speed turns.

But like always, I am still playing and fudging and learning where the car likes to be. I don't think I will keep 30/ -4 for long before changing again... track conditions (right now)... are changing too fast at my track to really nail something down. (kind of frustrating). We have another track change starting this coming weekend too, so its back to square 1. Can't finalize a setup until the clay starts to become consistent.... BUT, I am glad we are doing a track build for a change as our current layout is almost no fun at all.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:53 PM   #5485
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I'm afraid I have to do sell my RB6 and FS2

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Old 03-04-2013, 05:50 PM   #5486
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Capt. Ya all the team guys at my track run Burbs in the rear. Few run them on the front. Most guys run Scrubs on the front, or Bar Codes on the front since they were practicing for the REEDY, and that was the hand out tires. I think the biggest thing was just getting them broken in enough. I also tried Bar Codes in the rear, but just could not get hooked up with them.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:23 PM   #5487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I find it strange that you are using two different kinds of tires front and back. Not only are you using very different side bite, but also different compounds. And maybe I am just ignorant to it as the tracks I run at here, we all run the same tire front and back, almost all the time.... but it would seem to ME, that you would first and foremost want to tune and set the car up so that it handles the way you want it to with matching tires... and you would only use miss-matched tires to address a setup issue you can't fix otherwise.

Is that what most guys at your track run? burbs back, scrubs front? Tracks and clay are SO different!!... scrubs absolutely don't work in the slightest at my tracks. (unless you want to scrub speed!)

Im glad you got the tires set... that is always job #1 before you worry about finer level adjustments on setup. Not only do you need the proper tires, but you need to get a set broken in properly first, and THEN take note of how the car drives... THEN work on those finer level changes on setup.

Traction is up way at my track, and with the increased rear traction, I am able to dial back in more steering. 30/ -4 is going to be the most aggressive steering you can get. 30 kick-up will give the best off-throttle forward weight transfer, and the low overall caster will give the most infield steering. I am running this specifically because my current layout has no highspeed steering sections where more caster is used... it's all slower speed turns.

But like always, I am still playing and fudging and learning where the car likes to be. I don't think I will keep 30/ -4 for long before changing again... track conditions (right now)... are changing too fast at my track to really nail something down. (kind of frustrating). We have another track change starting this coming weekend too, so its back to square 1. Can't finalize a setup until the clay starts to become consistent.... BUT, I am glad we are doing a track build for a change as our current layout is almost no fun at all.
Scrubs Front / Suburbs Rear is a popular setup at our track too (The Track, Gaithersburg, MD). It's hard packed dirt, moist in the morning and super nice at the end of a race day. I've tried to match F/R tires and I can not get a Suburbs Front/Rear, BarCodes F/R, or etc... to work.

I will try the 30/-4 b/c there are more turn sections than straight-aways so I think i will benefit from the change.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:43 PM   #5488
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I saw some people trying to locate RB6 kits. We were able to get some out of the latest shipment to hit the USA (last week) and we have 8 of them left in stock-

http://rcspeedshop.com/index.php?cPath=163_166

We will be putting the spare parts inventory we have up this week as well - lots in stock, just not on the site yet. I am so impressed with this kit, I have decided to keep one for myself!

Hope this helps...
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:22 PM   #5489
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Scrubs Front / Suburbs Rear is a popular setup at our track too (The Track, Gaithersburg, MD). It's hard packed dirt, moist in the morning and super nice at the end of a race day. I've tried to match F/R tires and I can not get a Suburbs Front/Rear, BarCodes F/R, or etc... to work.

I will try the 30/-4 b/c there are more turn sections than straight-aways so I think i will benefit from the change.
I see.. just so different from the hard packed indoor clay tracks we run up here in the northwest. I guess we are a bit lucky... toss on gold bar codes front and back, break them in, and you are dialed.

Do any of you guys run blue bar codes? I have 3 or 4 sets of NIP blue rears that I will never run... could sell for cheap.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:10 PM   #5490
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Only place I've been that the blues work is RC Excitement up in Mass. They work at home for about a week, and then it's on to golds. They must have changed the compound on the golds, because they never worked before.
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