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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-28-2013, 10:14 PM   #5431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Ride height gauge.. under the front.
And behind the front wheels. If you do it straight on sometimes the bumper hangs lower than the chassis
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:11 PM   #5432
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What is removing the .5mm shim I have between the pivot block and chassis supposed to do?
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:36 AM   #5433
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Lowers Roll center
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:12 AM   #5434
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Sorry Kyosho calls it a front suspension mount block.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:55 AM   #5435
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Does anyone know the width difference between the RF and RF2 configurations?
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:43 AM   #5436
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The RF2 makes the arms sit out a little wider. Helps free up the rear end and make it more stable.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:51 AM   #5437
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Quote:
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The RF2 makes the arms sit out a little wider. Helps free up the rear end and make it more stable.
Yeah, but I think he's asking how MUCH wider the wide hangers are. Mike, without measuring (i don't have two sets off a car at the moment)... I would guess (dont' quote me) 1.5mm wider per side (3mm total) . I will be doing some work on my cars tonight, id be happy to measure later.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-01-2013 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:53 AM   #5438
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this thread makes my head spin
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:01 AM   #5439
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Happy birthday to me, I bought the ghea pistons 4 hole 1.3 and some spare parts. And the wife got me a new tekin gen2 for stock! Can't wait for the weekend now . Weeee
Any body using the tekin? Did you add timing on the can at all?
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:36 AM   #5440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Yeah, but I think he's asking how MUCH wider the wide hangers are. Mike, without measuring (i don't have two sets off a car at the moment)... I would guess (dont' quote me) 1.5mm wider per side (3mm total) . I will be doing some work on my cars tonight, id be happy to measure later.
Ok, I will measure them as well, just curious if anyone had yet. I think most will change the blocks and not change the link length, which I feel will has at least as much of an impact on handling as the width change will.
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:51 AM   #5441
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Ok, I will measure them as well, just curious if anyone had yet. I think most will change the blocks and not change the link length, which I feel will has at least as much of an impact on handling as the width change will.
link length? The camber tie-rod? Yeah, if you go from the narrow blocks to the wide blocks and don't re-adjust camber, you will probably be looking at like -6 camber
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:55 AM   #5442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
Happy birthday to me, I bought the ghea pistons 4 hole 1.3 and some spare parts. And the wife got me a new tekin gen2 for stock! Can't wait for the weekend now . Weeee
Any body using the tekin? Did you add timing on the can at all?
Gen2 17.5? Great motor! Set the timing on the can to 30deg. and gear 69/33 to start with.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:31 AM   #5443
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
link length? The camber tie-rod? Yeah, if you go from the narrow blocks to the wide blocks and don't re-adjust camber, you will probably be looking at like -6 camber
Yes, and making this adjustment makes your camber length longer or shorter, changing your roll center, camber gain, etc. If it's .5mm at each side, probably not a big impact, if it's 1.5+mm that equivalent to one of the offset holes on the option hubs. I just wonder if the shorter link achieved when going wider is a bigger influence on the steering gained than the actual width. (could be tested by shimming at the hex instead).
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:42 PM   #5444
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Gen2 17.5? Great motor! Set the timing on the can to 30deg. and gear 69/33 to start with.
Great thanks or the heads up. Right now I'm 31/69 on my trinity. With 5 extra degrees.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:45 PM   #5445
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Hi guys got a gearing question? I will be running Team Orion 13.5T motor in my rb6, someone told me to run 26/75 on the gearing but I see the best I can do is 25/76. He mentioned to get a 27 tooth pinion gear as well but I dont see that Kyosho makes them. Any advise or what would you guys run on a tight indoor track?
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