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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-23-2013, 10:15 PM   #5356
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Brandon. I really like your latest set up, but I need a little less steering. It's a little too aggressive. What should I do?
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #5357
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Brandon. I really like your latest set up, but I need a little less steering. It's a little too aggressive. What should I do?
What kind of surface do you race on, what tires do you run, and what do your tires look like? are your fronts more broken in than your rears by chance? My setup is designed to make the car pretty easy to drive (un-aggressive front end). If you have too much steering, you have a setup issue somewhere else in the car. The only other change you could make that would lock the rear end in even more, would be to go to .5 rear hubs... but i wouldn't do that until you are 100% sure that the car is properly setup... with both tire wear, insert wear, and weight balance. Those things will DRAMATICALLY affect how a car drives, far more than any setting or washer you change on a setup sheet.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:56 PM   #5358
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Does anyone have the part numbers for the short medium and long shock rod ends used on the rb6?
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:06 PM   #5359
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Wife got this pic of me and the 6 at the track today

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Old 02-23-2013, 11:13 PM   #5360
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It's med to high bite clay. Suburbs on the black scrubs on the front. Clay compound. Aka foam. Rears are broke in more than the fronts. I also tried a new set of fronts. It's good, just too aggressive to be easy to drive.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:17 PM   #5361
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It's med to high bite clay. Suburbs on the black scrubs on the front. Clay compound. Aka foam. Rears are broke in more than the fronts. I also tried a new set of fronts. It's good, just too aggressive to be easy to drive.
suburbs might be part of your issue... they don't have enough side bite for the 6 me thinks... they are specifically a low side bite tire. Before I would play with setup too much, i would first switch to a more consistent tire, and run the same tire front and back. Do gold barcodes work at your track?
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:03 AM   #5362
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I've been pretty curious about gear diffs - seems easier to deal with and more consistent. Please update us on your findings with it ...
I only ran on carpet so far, that's where I'm using a gear diff. Way more direct throttle feel and higher vorner speed, if it's flat carpet only. As soon as there are slipery parts on the track like e.g. wood the ball diff got it's pros up again. And my gear diff is leaking as hell...So I'm not sure if gear diff is too interesting on clay/low traction surfaces...On high traction it definitly has its advantages but also increases tire wear.

So does anyone have an idea about which hex screws to run in the gear diff ? Which kind of grease are you guys running in the transmission ?
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:55 AM   #5363
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New lay out electrics that transforms the car in MM.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-kyosho-008.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-kyosho-004.jpg  
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:03 AM   #5364
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Brandon, are you considering the Tekin shootout ? got some good drivers coming out. Should be good times.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:42 AM   #5365
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Fresh paint. Hate to even put decals on it and run it on the track.


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Old 02-24-2013, 07:10 AM   #5366
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Fresh paint. Hate to even put decals on it and run it on the track.


Hey David...Thought you were a team driver for Durango? When you guys coming to crcrc to race?

See ya buddy

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Old 02-24-2013, 07:10 AM   #5367
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Fresh paint. Hate to even put decals on it and run it on the track.


Looks good, nice color combo.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:12 AM   #5368
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Does anyone have the part numbers for the short medium and long shock rod ends used on the rb6?
Anyone?
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:01 AM   #5369
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Quote:
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Hey David...Thought you were a team driver for Durango? When you guys coming to crcrc to race?

See ya buddy

Dax
Looks great David. I agree with Dax, we need more RB6 presence at CRCRC. Mine has been dialed lately.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:04 AM   #5370
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S = W5015
M = 97038
L = LA43
Shock end part numbers from earlier in the thread. Courtesy of a search for "shock end part". I haven't verified these are correct.
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