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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-19-2013, 10:57 AM   #5266
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What's the proper way to adjust the caster?

For example the manual says to run As on the rf set to wide

If I wanted to run 2s set to narrow would I put B2 on the RF or just flip the A2?
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:12 AM   #5267
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What's the proper way to adjust the caster?

For example the manual says to run As on the rf set to wide

If I wanted to run 2s set to narrow would I put B2 on the RF or just flip the A2?
Without looking at the pieces and the car in front of me, it's a bit hard to explain in text. But what I can give you now, is actually pretty simple:

Caster leans backwards, right? So.. that means when you are looking at the hole in the caster insert, from the front of the car... the hole should be lower than center when looking at it from the front, and higher than center when looking at the insert from the rear. So as long as you have a "2", and the hole is angled forwards (which means caster is leaned backwards), you have the insert correct, regardless of whether you are running wide or narrow.

(sorry about that, I had that backwards!)
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 02-19-2013 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:14 AM   #5268
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English365 and lbckevin, just an FYI there not gonna use grape soda this time, there supposedly gonna be using sugar water when the track is rebuilt
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:46 AM   #5269
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I set my car up mid motor last night as well and gave it some laps I had to try it. Worked pretty well, had to stiffen the rear a bit and mess with ride height. Had to baby the throttle, but after te track was swept it had great grip. Nearly as much as my rear configuration. I feel like it might easily be as fast. So it comes down to personal preference on driving style for me. I have always driven rear motor so I will most likely go back. But it is maybe more fun to drive in mid but no faster yet.
I will have to race it tonight in mid as I don't have time to change back. Tonight will really be the test.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:51 AM   #5270
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Without looking at the pieces and the car in front of me, it's a bit hard to explain in text. But what I can give you now, is actually pretty simple:

Caster leans backwards, right? So.. that means when you are looking at the hole in the caster insert, from the front of the car... the hole should be lower than center when looking at it from the front, and higher than center when looking at the insert from the rear. So as long as you have a "2", and the hole is angled forwards (which means caster is leaned backwards), you have the insert correct, regardless of whether you are running wide or narrow.

(sorry about that, I had that backwards!)

Right. So I can just flip the side vs swapping the side or will that work also? Didn't know if there was a preference.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:28 PM   #5271
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I can't decide between mid or rear motor. I ran mod rear motor last weekend and could not get the buggy set up right. Ran mid motor 17.5 blinky and I liked how it jumped/turned. The best "upgrade" I have done in my opinion is going to "narrow" aluminum hub carriers.
You might want to try the wide rf2 plastic in the back with rb5 (umw521-1) arm and also the the rb5 front axles (umw506) with the hexes (law30gm). I prefer the wide rear with the wide front. If you don't change the front, don't go wide on the rear for mid motor atleast, haven't tried it on the rear motor buggy yet.

Right now I have two RB6's with both the rear and mid motor configuration. I still haven't picked a favorite.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:51 PM   #5272
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possibly for sale. RB6. ROLLER. only run on carpet. not a scratch on it. a bit of a tax problem this year. what would people pay? Here are the upgrades.
FR and RR Kyosho aluminum hangers. Narrow.
Kyosho gunmetal battery post with Kyosho graphite battery holder.
Exotek steering link and Exotek rear bulkhead upgrade.
everything else that comes in box included. Will I take a complete bath on this boys?

Last edited by noworries; 02-19-2013 at 12:54 PM. Reason: forgot to ad info
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:54 PM   #5273
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make me an offer
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:55 PM   #5274
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What exactly does adding a shim in between the chassis and the front kick up block do? I recently added a .5mm shim and White front springs and now the steering is sharp AND predicable. I know what the springs do but im not 100% on the shim.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:01 PM   #5275
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What exactly does adding a shim in between the chassis and the front kick up block do? I recently added a .5mm shim and White front springs and now the steering is sharp AND predicable. I know what the springs do but im not 100% on the shim.
More shim lowers the front roll center, as it effectively separates the suspension mount from the chassis.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:23 PM   #5276
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Originally Posted by MBUCK View Post
possibly for sale. RB6. ROLLER. only run on carpet. not a scratch on it. a bit of a tax problem this year. what would people pay? Here are the upgrades.
FR and RR Kyosho aluminum hangers. Narrow.
Kyosho gunmetal battery post with Kyosho graphite battery holder.
Exotek steering link and Exotek rear bulkhead upgrade.
everything else that comes in box included. Will I take a complete bath on this boys?
No you shouldn't take a bath, if you bought a B4.1 with big bores and the other $100 worth of upgrades like I did, you'd take a bath!
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:48 PM   #5277
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More shim lowers the front roll center, as it effectively separates the suspension mount from the chassis.
I did this when I was still using the pink springs. I felt as though the front end didn't "dive" so much. Does this make sense? I'm tempted to try my set up now without the shim but I'm still not totally sure what to pay attention to.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:58 PM   #5278
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I did this when I was still using the pink springs. I felt as though the front end didn't "dive" so much. Does this make sense? I'm tempted to try my set up now without the shim but I'm still not totally sure what to pay attention to.
Im still running the .5. I think the front end would probably generate a tiny bit less grip, but the car would feel slightly more responsive. In general, I think the change is so small you might not notice a single thing.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:32 PM   #5279
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You might want to try the wide rf2 plastic in the back with rb5 (umw521-1) arm and also the the rb5 front axles (umw506) with the hexes (law30gm). I prefer the wide rear with the wide front. If you don't change the front, don't go wide on the rear for mid motor atleast, haven't tried it on the rear motor buggy yet.

Right now I have two RB6's with both the rear and mid motor configuration. I still haven't picked a favorite.
thanks for the input turbo911
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:00 PM   #5280
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thanks for the input turbo911
As always any advice or ideas given have the downfall of my driving style maybe different than someone else and I run on a different track with different conditions. I like to read this forum to get ideas to try to better my vehicle setup. What I haven't found anywhere is a forum about driving, driving styles, how to analyze a track, how to learn a track that is new. I catch myself concentrating on setup too much, rather that learning new driving techniques.

I generally am a club racer (practice on Wed, race on Fri or Sun). I have traveled maybe 4 or 5 times in the last year to different tracks. Last weekend I got to go to Joliet, IL (leasure hours raceway) and run the Presidents Race. Wow what an eye opener. Got to see a lot of talent driving lights out. Saw a few of the drivers walking the track, wished I could here what they were talking about.

Any suggestions??

Turbo
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