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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-17-2013, 07:41 PM   #5236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Or maybe my rb5's setup is erratic like a bull in china shop,
Did you see that episode of the Myth Busters where they unleashed a bull (and then two) into a make-shift china shop? The bulls ran around like bats out of hell and didn't touch a single thing.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:06 PM   #5237
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Did you see that episode of the Myth Busters where they unleashed a bull (and then two) into a make-shift china shop? The bulls ran around like bats out of hell and didn't touch a single thing.
Afraid not sir, and certainly not my rb5 which leaves devastation in (and around) its path!

I think you guys are onto something with the rb5 rear arms. The steering, stability, jumping is all there, so the next area is to look for even more rear traction to push it outside the envelope, if that is what the straight arms do. Even as a noob I can only imagine the potential for the rb6. I think maybe even going back to a plastic chassis or t-plate for more flex could be the way, especially on low traction tracks? And she could do with losing some of that weight!
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:15 PM   #5238
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You guys make me laugh.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #5239
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Originally Posted by MBUCK View Post
Hey guys, please need your help. Setting the diff? Do you completely collaps then turn it back 1/8, 1/4? etc?. Also, would it be normal to rebuilt my RB6 diff if i have a total of about 16 rounds of hard racing on inside carpet track. thanks.

Watch this. It's Tebo explaining how he does it.
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ed-tebo-video/
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:57 AM   #5240
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Has anybody weighed their rb6 for weight distribution?

My rear motor weights - 1561 grams with 32.5% front and 65.5% rear
My mid motor weights - 1506 grams with 35.5% front and 62.5% rear

Went to Joliet (252 entries) this past week end and raced the the rear motor (8.5) in mod and the mid motor in stock (17.5) blinky. Fast lap for the mod was 20.9 secs and 22.4 for stock. It was a high bite wet clay surface that started out with slicks and we finished on ghost pins. Still haven't decided between the mid and rear motor setup, like both.

Turbo
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:10 AM   #5241
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Soooooo can we add this info please?

I tested yesterday and had been running 25/0 Entry was great but exit was a little pushy

I went to 25/2 caster and it had a lot more exit speed, and overall twitchiness.

buuuuuuuut I just realize I didn't adjust the bump!

I think Cpt had a formula and he can correct me if I'm wrong

25/0 run 0 on the outside steering
25/2 run 1mm
25/4 run 2mm

If you don't run a shim, you will get bumpsteer and the car will react on edge, at least for me.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:43 AM   #5242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post

I think Cpt had a formula and he can correct me if I'm wrong

25/0 run 0 on the outside steering
25/2 run 1mm
25/4 run 2mm

If you don't run a shim, you will get bumpsteer and the car will react on edge, at least for me.
The relationship of your camber link angle to the steering link (tie-rods) will play more of a role into how much you need to shim to add/remove bumpsteer. I don't think this is a hard in stone measurement but more of a guide to start with.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:11 PM   #5243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Soooooo can we add this info please?

I tested yesterday and had been running 25/0 Entry was great but exit was a little pushy

I went to 25/2 caster and it had a lot more exit speed, and overall twitchiness.

buuuuuuuut I just realize I didn't adjust the bump!

I think Cpt had a formula and he can correct me if I'm wrong

25/0 run 0 on the outside steering
25/2 run 1mm
25/4 run 2mm

If you don't run a shim, you will get bumpsteer and the car will react on edge, at least for me.
Here is what you need to remember:

25 caster = 0mm bumpsteer
30 caster = 3mm bumpsteer (what I am running now)

You can do the math to figure out how much you will need at 27, 29, 32, etc. If you changed caster but didn't adjust bumpsteer washers to keep the car at 0 bumpsteer, you actually made two changes at once. You will feel the affects of bumpsteer just as much as caster... so your test was inconclusive until you make those change corrections.

There might be a difference in how much B.S. washers you run depending on the angle of your camber link as well, but I haven't tested that. The key is to just make sure you measure your bumpsteer before and after your caster changes to make sure you keep it the same so you aren't making two changes at once.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:25 PM   #5244
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For anyone running stock, are you locking your slippers down?
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #5245
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Yes lock it down.... You'll never have enough power to break anything in the trans.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:53 PM   #5246
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Locked or don't doesn't matter I ran faster laptimes with a little slip vs locked down.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:33 PM   #5247
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So there is no BB front spring softer than the pink? Looking at the chart its rated a good bit stiffer than what most are running on other cars. It obviously works, but I can imagine there are circumstances when a bit softer front spring may be needed.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:36 PM   #5248
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Take a look at the avid springs if you need softer
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:44 PM   #5249
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Brandon, Is your set up on Pitite RC the most current?
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:41 PM   #5250
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Quote:
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So there is no BB front spring softer than the pink? Looking at the chart its rated a good bit stiffer than what most are running on other cars. It obviously works, but I can imagine there are circumstances when a bit softer front spring may be needed.
Avids are softer. But don't forget, it isn't just about the spring rate. Other cars don't carry as much weight up front, and their shock mounting positions might not be the same (huge affect on what weight spring you want to run). So take all that into consideration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
Brandon, Is your set up on Pitite RC the most current?
Nope... and probably never will be. My latest is on my website, and the link always takes you to my latest (I just update the same link). I just made my changes/updates yesterday. Car was brutally good this last weekend.

Brandon Collin's RB6 setup for high traction indoor clay
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