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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-15-2013, 10:19 PM   #5206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
Brandon, you may have been asked this before is so I am sorry. I am putting your set up on my car.

I have a couple questions. On the front blockmposition, in or out?

The caster insert hole goes IN, so it makes the front end physically wider. It's the same way the manual shows to install, but use the 0deg insert and the center block at 30deg as shown

On the front axle Hightower(height) spacers you say 1mm top and bottom? Isn't there only a total of 1.5mm top or bottom?

I think he means 1mm bottom and .5mm top

And rear wheel base. It says 2mm in front and rear of the arms? Is it .5mm in front of arm, and 1.5mm behind? Thanks

On the outboard hub side, 2mm in front of the hub and 2mm behind the hub, so centered. On the inboard side on the chassis between the RF/RF2 blocks, it's .5mm in front of the arms, and 1.5mm behind the arms. You would be fine with 1mm in front and behind of the arms also, the .5mm shims are hard to come by
Hope this helped. We run the same setup at the same track on a weekly basis. I only posted in the interest of you getting quick answers
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:25 PM   #5207
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Great thank you!
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:29 PM   #5208
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Looking for a starting point for 17.5 gearing/ timing.

D3.5 with a 12.5 high torque rotor
Orion r10 pro
Orion 4000mah 90c
Avid triad
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:50 PM   #5209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Looking for a starting point for 17.5 gearing/ timing.

D3.5 with a 12.5 high torque rotor
Orion r10 pro
Orion 4000mah 90c
Avid triad
Full timing on D3.5. Gear it 33 or 34/72 or 34/69. Orion R10 Blinky with punch 9.

You can reduce timing on motor or gear a tooth lower depending on punch.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:16 AM   #5210
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Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
No, the piston doesn't go farther up. When changing between long/medium/short ends the uptravel remains the same, the distance from the end of the shock shaft(while screwed in) to the center of the ball pivot is what changes.. Uptravel/downtravel doesn't change when going between the different shock ends, only A-arm droop. When putting a limiter under the piston, uptravel doesn't change, only downtravel and in turn A-arm droop. Hope this help, i see where you're coming from.



He was talking about swapping shock ends to change droop instead of taking the shock apart to add/remove limiters.

Odd, because I'm running 27mm without a 1mm limiter, I'm curious what he gets by doing this.

But thinking about it, why aren't you getting more uptravel? Sure the 27mm betweeen shock end and bottom of the body is the same, but if I were to push both of them up, the one with the 1mm limiter should be 1mm longer INSIDE of the body shouldn't it?

I did an illustration to show you what I'm visualizing.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-shock.jpg  
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:10 AM   #5211
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I like your drawing, but in that pic the 1mm spacer defeats the purpose of adding it..which is to limit downtravel 1mm. Maybe i need to look at the setup sheet..but he is probably running a different length shock end right? they make 3 different lengths to basically do the same as internal limiters would. So yes, in your illustration assuming you used the same length rod end, the one with the limiter would be 1mm shorter. BUT in your picture you drew it so that it looks like you unscrewed the shock end 1mm to cancel out the internal limiter. I can't see a reason to build the shocks that way.

I run UFO pistons nowadays anyway, the piston actually hits the shock cap just before the shock is fully compressed.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:12 AM   #5212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Looking for a starting point for 17.5 gearing/ timing.

D3.5 with a 12.5 high torque rotor
Orion r10 pro
Orion 4000mah 90c
Avid triad
31-32/69 with full timing on my 17.5 Fantom D3.5, which is only around 25-28* anyway. I think this is the motor people are grinding the endplate on to get more timing from (so they can use the full sweep of the guage sticker).
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:58 AM   #5213
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I noticed when rebuilding my shocks that the pistons matched the cartridge so well that when the shock was fully extended the piston and the cartridge were actually suctioned together. This caused an inconsistency in the shock action. I added the 1mm spacer to put some physical space in between the piston and the cartridge. Once I did this I noticed a huge change in how my suspension worked and reacted.

There are a few other shock tricks you can do to free up the suspension as well. I was running on a fairly blown out indoor track with a lot of bumps and noticed that both the losi's and ae's were floating over the bumps where I was bouncing off and all around on them. So I started tinkering.

Does anyone wonder why Kyosho does have ti-nitride coated shock shafts? I see they used to have a 54mm shock shaft but it's too long for the rb6.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:01 AM   #5214
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Btw even with the spacers, I'm running 27.3mm drop in the rear and 20.3mm in the front. It has no problem bottoming the shock out.

Last edited by cnelson3; 02-16-2013 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:14 AM   #5215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
I like your drawing, but in that pic the 1mm spacer defeats the purpose of adding it..which is to limit downtravel 1mm. Maybe i need to look at the setup sheet..but he is probably running a different length shock end right? they make 3 different lengths to basically do the same as internal limiters would. So yes, in your illustration assuming you used the same length rod end, the one with the limiter would be 1mm shorter. BUT in your picture you drew it so that it looks like you unscrewed the shock end 1mm to cancel out the internal limiter. I can't see a reason to build the shocks that way.

I run UFO pistons nowadays anyway, the piston actually hits the shock cap just before the shock is fully compressed.
Yeah we both have medium eyelets on so his would he unscrewed to get the 27mm gap.

Confusing isn't it lol
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:59 AM   #5216
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Thanks guys.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:37 AM   #5217
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
I noticed when rebuilding my shocks that the pistons matched the cartridge so well that when the shock was fully extended the piston and the cartridge were actually suctioned together. This caused an inconsistency in the shock action. I added the 1mm spacer to put some physical space in between the piston and the cartridge. Once I did this I noticed a huge change in how my suspension worked and reacted.

There are a few other shock tricks you can do to free up the suspension as well. I was running on a fairly blown out indoor track with a lot of bumps and noticed that both the losi's and ae's were floating over the bumps where I was bouncing off and all around on them. So I started tinkering.

Does anyone wonder why Kyosho does have ti-nitride coated shock shafts? I see they used to have a 54mm shock shaft but it's too long for the rb6.
I have found this too and was considering this, but around 0.5mm instead
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:39 AM   #5218
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It would explain why tebo runs 1mm
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:51 AM   #5219
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The other things did was shave down the spacer between the orings. They are 4.8 mm in thickness and I shaved them down to 4.2 mm. I run the clear orings and noticed that they get compressed when u tighten the black cap on the cartridge causing the seals to really press against the shaft. I was running the caps snug tight and they were always backing off, so I trimmed the spacers a little and problem solved. I think I have my shocks as smooth as possible. Any other tips would be great.

I used (4) 1 mm spacers on my short bus with the same results except they do leave a little oil on the spring retainers when I rebuild them. Almost none tho. Better than all the other brands still, by far.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:53 AM   #5220
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Originally Posted by mikeyscott View Post
I have found this too and was considering this, but around 0.5mm instead
Let me know how it works. I just had 1mm delrin spacers from the tree the regular bore shock pistons came on so I used those.
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