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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-15-2013, 12:05 AM   #5191
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And I don't think it affects Cvd plunge, up travel etc just let's him quickly run less droop if needed without rebuilding the shock
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:21 AM   #5192
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Right so the droop is the same, but the 1mm limiter allows more plunge thereby giving more traction since the CVD will bind into the outdrive further?
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:32 AM   #5193
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Alls the limiter does is make it so you can get less droop in the shock. It has nothing to do with plunge. You can only thread the shock ends on so far so putting the limiter in there changes the shaft length. Droop changes your traction the way the car jumps and how it tranfers weight
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:08 AM   #5194
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With the Avid top shaft can you run the complete associated slipper setup?
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:13 AM   #5195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroad dude View Post
With the Avid top shaft can you run the complete associated slipper setup?
I had found a post on the thread where someone said they could run the vts with the avid top shaft, I want to try that as well, I have it on my B4.1 and there is a lot more room for fine adjustments than the single setup, but I don't like the idea of having to use avid special spurs..
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:20 AM   #5196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
Alls the limiter does is make it so you can get less droop in the shock. It has nothing to do with plunge. You can only thread the shock ends on so far so putting the limiter in there changes the shaft length. Droop changes your traction the way the car jumps and how it tranfers weight
Right but I can get the same length without using a limiter with the same shock end.

So the droop is the same but the length of the shaft is 1mm longer the way he runs it. So full compression the piston goes further up and and the plunge increased also. I just don't know why he would do this.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #5197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I had found a post on the thread where someone said they could run the vts with the avid top shaft, I want to try that as well, I have it on my B4.1 and there is a lot more room for fine adjustments than the single setup, but I don't like the idea of having to use avid special spurs..
Yes you can, i tried one for awhile when my LHS sold out of the triad's but had the top shafts. Its nice but i just recently put on the triad, and the triad is better than the VTS. the VTS uses way bigger pads which takes away some of the advantages of the new slipper setup. i felt my car had more forward bite with the triad over the VTS, even tho they felt the same tightness
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:25 AM   #5198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitronut3 View Post
Yes you can, i tried one for awhile when my LHS sold out of the triad's but had the top shafts. Its nice but i just recently put on the triad, and the triad is better than the VTS. the VTS uses way bigger pads which takes away some of the advantages of the new slipper setup. i felt my car had more forward bite with the triad over the VTS, even tho they felt the same tightness
Thanks that was what I was looking for. My hobby shop is out also and I need something to use ASAP!
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:13 PM   #5199
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What battery config are u guys using
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:03 PM   #5200
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Does anyone know the i.d. and o.d. Of the diff rings I'm trying to see if they will fit in a different car
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:49 PM   #5201
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thinking of selling a rb6 with partsit's brand new but built. has aluminum steering rack and crank, carbon fiber battery straps with spare arms knuckles towers arms an so on. In the pics i have it has all blue aluminum but it will not have them when you receive. the blue will will either be stock or brown and no body is included. pm me for pics price is 450 obo.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:22 PM   #5202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom87 View Post
And I don't think it affects Cvd plunge, up travel etc just let's him quickly run less droop if needed without rebuilding the shock
If he has to take the end off and the shaft out to take the limiter off thats not quickly to me.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:37 PM   #5203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Right but I can get the same length without using a limiter with the same shock end.
So the droop is the same but the length of the shaft is 1mm longer the way he runs it. So full compression the piston goes further up and and the plunge increased also. I just don't know why he would do this.
You have me confused (ain't hard) but there is something that is clear to me. If the "bottom of the shock to the center of the shock end" is the same the plunge does not change. The overall droop and travel the same but with the piston in a different position inside the body. Your question as to why he would do that is definitely something to think about. I seem to recall something from decades ago about that, maybe that book is still around.
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:38 PM   #5204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
So full compression the piston goes further up and and the plunge increased also. I just don't know why he would do this.
No, the piston doesn't go farther up. When changing between long/medium/short ends the uptravel remains the same, the distance from the end of the shock shaft(while screwed in) to the center of the ball pivot is what changes.. Uptravel/downtravel doesn't change when going between the different shock ends, only A-arm droop. When putting a limiter under the piston, uptravel doesn't change, only downtravel and in turn A-arm droop. Hope this help, i see where you're coming from.

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If he has to take the end off and the shaft out to take the limiter off thats not quickly to me.
He was talking about swapping shock ends to change droop instead of taking the shock apart to add/remove limiters.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:55 PM   #5205
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Brandon, you may have been asked this before is so I am sorry. I am putting your set up on my car. I have a couple questions. On the front blockmposition, in or out? On the front axle Hightower spacer you say 1mm top and bottom? Isn't there only a total of 1.5mm top or bottom? And rear wheel base. It says 2mm in front and rear of the arms? Is it .5mm in front of arm, and 1.5mm behind? Thanks
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