Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Like Tree171Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Old 02-14-2013, 12:00 PM
  #5176  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
ryanpatrickgore's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: TRCR
Posts: 2,025
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aloksatoor
And also all screws removed for flex tune in mid motor right?
I bet he does, most people I've talked to at my track have done this. I'm running the front screws only
ryanpatrickgore is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 12:05 PM
  #5177  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
ryanpatrickgore's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: TRCR
Posts: 2,025
Trader Rating: 14 (94%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Theroc
Ryan,

"fastwon" on this thread has been playing around with mid motor on clay and looks like he has had some success. I think he mounted his shortie sideways and to the rear to gain rear traction. There are some pics on petit rc.

Rocky
Hara had it mounted that way for a bit too, he had a custom brace on, in his picture on petit.
Fastone and hara had pretty different setups from each other I've noticed as well.
ryanpatrickgore is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 04:51 PM
  #5178  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Byron Center, Michigan
Posts: 109
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default RB6

Changing from the RB6 rear arms and narrow hingepin holders (kyoumw511/512gm) to the RB5 rear arms (521-1) and wide hingepin holders (RF2). Don't have and can't get the aluminum ones, so I want to use the plastic stock hinge pin holds. Exploded view shows part 132 for the RF bracket and part number 51 for RR bracket. The plastic tree layout in the front of the book doesn't show part 132 on the tree anywhere. Confused and want to make sure I have the correct parts it.

Any help, I hope I did not confuse anyone else as much as I am.

Turbo
Turbo911 is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:15 PM
  #5179  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Is it worth to get the offset motor spacer, or pass
Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:16 PM
  #5180  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: East Atl Metro Area
Posts: 4,556
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Turbo911
Changing from the RB6 rear arms and narrow hingepin holders (kyoumw511/512gm) to the RB5 rear arms (521-1) and wide hingepin holders (RF2). Don't have and can't get the aluminum ones, so I want to use the plastic stock hinge pin holds. Exploded view shows part 132 for the RF bracket and part number 51 for RR bracket. The plastic tree layout in the front of the book doesn't show part 132 on the tree anywhere. Confused and want to make sure I have the correct parts it.

Any help, I hope I did not confuse anyone else as much as I am.

Turbo
What you are looking for came on the same part tree as the other holders and the transmission case.

Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Is it worth to get the offset motor spacer, or pass
The kit comes with a spacer.
Rfury is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:23 PM
  #5181  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
aloksatoor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: N California
Posts: 3,148
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Is it worth to get the offset motor spacer, or pass
Its stock on the rb6 and yes its totally required.
aloksatoor is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:35 PM
  #5182  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Its stock on the rb6 and yes its totally required.
Thanks guys my kit should b here tomorrow just tying to make sure I have everything else. Should I get anything?
Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 05:52 PM
  #5183  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Thanks guys my kit should b here tomorrow just tying to make sure I have everything else. Should I get anything?
Considering reports are still coming in about broken steering racks.. the only thing I would suggest is a semi-must-have... would be an exotech alu steering rack. Links are on post #1.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 06:40 PM
  #5184  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Byron Center, Michigan
Posts: 109
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rfury
What you are looking for came on the same part tree as the other holders and the transmission case.



The kit comes with a spacer.

Thanks, finally figured it out. The beefier RF2 is in a different bag.

Turbo
Turbo911 is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 06:53 PM
  #5185  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
 
savageboy69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Pasco,WA
Posts: 4,135
Trader Rating: 93 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Considering reports are still coming in about broken steering racks.. the only thing I would suggest is a semi-must-have... would be an exotech alu steering rack. Links are on post #1.
correct, my first time out i broke 2 both in the same spot, 1 time was hitting a pipe, the other was landing with wheels turned, i got a buddy whos a machinest so we are gonna try some different style aluminum and carbon fiber ones, ill post pics when i get em and report back
savageboy69 is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 08:39 PM
  #5186  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Can someone explain the difference between this?

27mm shock length from bottom of shock to top of lower shock mount with 1mm internal limiter


26mm shock length from bottom of shock to top of lower shock mount
K_King is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 08:56 PM
  #5187  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 508
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

When you use the shortest shock end (like tebo is with the 521-1 arms), your minimum length is around 27.5mm before you start squeezing the ball in the shockend. Hence the limiter. When you run medium or long shockends you can screw down to around 25.7mm. These are rear shock lengths by the way but same applies to the front.
Tom87 is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 08:58 PM
  #5188  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

So I can run 26mm length and have the same performance as a 27mm with 1mm limiter?
K_King is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 09:58 PM
  #5189  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,234
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Actually I was doing it wrong..

If he had no shim he would be 28 vs 27 that I run. Since he runs the 1, it effectively moved the piston up by 1 mm.

This does not affect the droop, but I do think it does something with the uptravel, and CVD plunge, I'm guessing more traction using this method than 0 shim and 27mm length?
K_King is offline  
Old 02-14-2013, 11:54 PM
  #5190  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 508
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Yeah you got it. But with short shockend I could not get 27mm only 27.5mm without the shock ball binding. So if I run a 1mm internal limiter I would have 26.5mm then I unscrew the shockend to get 27mm.
Tom87 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.