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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-12-2013, 09:37 PM   #5146
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Has anyone had problems breaking or bending the rear axles?
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:46 PM   #5147
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Yes. Both bent and broken a few.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:05 PM   #5148
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Has anyone had problems breaking or bending the rear axles?
I have yet to see an axle bend or break on any of the dozen or so RB6s iv seen run.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:54 AM   #5149
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
Flipping the steering rack around changes the Ackerman, taming the steering. Then you can shim the balls forward to go back to the stock setting, if later you want more aggressive steering.
Can anyone confirm this? The reason why I ask is because on my RB5 I ran a metal rack, and the first time I installed it I put the studs facing forward, pushing the links forward a lot. Needless to say the car plowed horribly, until I fixed it. Bringing it back made it turn a ton better.

So when I see Tebo run the 1mm Ackerman, to me he's taming steering, has anyone else found this to be true?
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:25 AM   #5150
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I have yet to see an axle bend or break on any of the dozen or so RB6s iv seen run.
+1 i can't imagine what you guys could be running into and bouncing off of to have multiple issues.

i'm not the best driver (consistancy issue) low A, high B mains after taking over a year off and i've only broken two parts and all because boneheaded moves by me.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:42 AM   #5151
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I sent in my RB5 axles in to FastLane Machine to have them make some stonger axles. They now sell a set for $30. I have yet to bend one now.
These are for the SP2. I think thats the same as the WC and I hope the same for the RB6.
http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodd...FLM6600&cat=35
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:00 AM   #5152
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Can anyone confirm this? The reason why I ask is because on my RB5 I ran a metal rack, and the first time I installed it I put the studs facing forward, pushing the links forward a lot. Needless to say the car plowed horribly, until I fixed it. Bringing it back made it turn a ton better.

So when I see Tebo run the 1mm Ackerman, to me he's taming steering, has anyone else found this to be true?
Moving the rack rearward in any scenario will reduce the angle of the outside wheel, making the wheels turn less parallel to each other. I haven't found this to necessarily produce the same results, like everything else it can depend on what the car is doing elsewhere in the suspension. I have had times where moving forward tamed down turn in and gained mid corner steering, and also times where rack back produced the best steering balance. I kept switching my B4's position and couldn't find one that was always better, but on that car the rearward one felt "tamer" overall.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:49 AM   #5153
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Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
And I just sold my mip thorp drivers last month.
You can get yourself a set of Wera tools. German engineered, great proven quality, rarely wears. Great handle that actually fits your hand. We use them at work (manufacturing company).

They are extremely inexpensive for their quality. $3-4 for a 2.0mm hex driver at chadtoolbox(dot)com. I don't understand why RC companies are selling their tools for $10-20+ each.

And yea, never strip a bolt.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:45 PM   #5154
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Originally Posted by QIMB528 View Post
You can get yourself a set of Wera tools. German engineered, great proven quality, rarely wears. Great handle that actually fits your hand. We use them at work (manufacturing company).

They are extremely inexpensive for their quality. $3-4 for a 2.0mm hex driver at chadtoolbox(dot)com. I don't understand why RC companies are selling their tools for $10-20+ each.

And yea, never strip a bolt.
Maybe engineered in Germany (im not sure how the shape of the handle matters where it's engineered), but for only $3 a pop.. they are manufactured in one place only, and that is China. No way in heck they will stand up to an MIP tool made here in America, with American steel... not by a long shot.

And considering MIP drivers last upwards of 25+ years... id say $14 is a bargain... seriously.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:54 PM   #5155
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I have Wiha tools for non RC related stuff(they do say made in germany). They are not bad at all, but in no way comparable to MIP. And not the handles, I am talking about the tips. At best they are like dynamite. Wera (also german) is similar in quality to Wiha but a bit fancier looking.

For the axles I myself did not bend one. I ran one race weekend with the MIP diff/swing shafts axles, and its pretty new looking still. No signs of wear, but my Kyoshos also start showing wear after a month of racing (every week).
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:14 PM   #5156
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For the axles I myself did not bend one. I ran one race weekend with the MIP diff/swing shafts axles, and its pretty new looking still. No signs of wear, but my Kyoshos also start showing wear after a month of racing (every week).
Keep the updates coming on your pin and outdrive wear, please! Maybe keep track of how many packs you have run? pretty please
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:34 PM   #5157
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Keep the updates coming on your pin and outdrive wear, please! Maybe keep track of how many packs you have run? pretty please
Glad to help! I have around 5 packs on mine now. Track was extreme high grip this weekend so much more stress on pins and all btw.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:39 PM   #5158
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Glad to help! I have around 5 packs on mine now. Track was extreme high grip this weekend so much more stress on pins and all btw.
That's good to know.. im on a very high grip track as well.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:48 PM   #5159
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Maybe engineered in Germany (im not sure how the shape of the handle matters where it's engineered), but for only $3 a pop.. they are manufactured in one place only, and that is China. No way in heck they will stand up to an MIP tool made here in America, with American steel... not by a long shot.

And considering MIP drivers last upwards of 25+ years... id say $14 is a bargain... seriously.

not quite sir. they manufactured in czech republic. i own a bunch of wera bit holding handles and ratchets in addition to fixed drivers, they are actually really good. i use them along with my mip and hudy drivers but if i had a choice, mip and hudy for sure.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:49 PM   #5160
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Just to make sure I'm not crazy here, the manual has you build the front end wide right? I've had people tell me they run narrow "like the manual" but the eccentric needs to be pointing away from the kingpin to be narrow, that moves the whole chub in. Manual has the hole furthest away from the kingpin which widens the track...
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