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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-11-2013, 08:55 PM   #5116
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That track is WAY too big... holycrap . 60 second lap times? Id split that building in half... off road in one half, onroad in another.
lol yea its big, its the cabin fever race in idaho, they do it every year, lap times were in the mid 40 second range, tons of fun but its more of a 1/8 track that they let 1/10 run on
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:57 PM   #5117
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nice!


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Old 02-11-2013, 09:41 PM   #5118
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First night with the new rb6! The car was great, felt so smooth and plush. I instantly felt good with it and got some lap times that were better than I thought I would get tonight, and didn't break anything. I used Brandon's setup (thanks), but with stock pistons 37.5/32.5. I might go lighter for oils as I bounced around a little bit.
I am sold on Kyosho! I will post pics of the car tomorrow
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:35 PM   #5119
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Jason,
Did west coast get these in?
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:29 AM   #5120
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Jason,
Did west coast get these in?
I think so, give em a call tomorrow.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:44 AM   #5121
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Anyone who has suggestions on parts that brake most often? Going to a race soon were they don't sell K parts.

Is it the usual: towers, arms the steering rack thingy and the KYOUM720? What about hubs and bulkhead?

Has anyone tried boiling the plastic steering rack thing that breaks to make it more bendy? I wont be able to get the exotek before the race.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:23 AM   #5122
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[QUOTE=daniz;11804825]Anyone who has suggestions on parts that brake most often?
Has anyone tried boiling the plastic steering rack thing that breaks to make it more bendy?

Shock towers have stout. About the steering link...its not a rigidity issue, just a lack of material issue
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Old 02-12-2013, 03:02 AM   #5123
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With a good 2mm driver, and a cup of Joe, you can have it assembled in <~2 hrs.
Tip on building: I stripped a few screws. Kyosho should have better quality screws. use a 5/64. Fits better
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:22 AM   #5124
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MIP Thorp 2mm = Butter.

Never strip a screw again.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:34 AM   #5125
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Originally Posted by MBUCK View Post
Tip on building: I stripped a few screws. Kyosho should have better quality screws. use a 5/64. Fits better
Kyosho kit screws are the best in the industry. My 2mm hex fits Kyosho screws like O.J.'s glove. Sounds to me like you're using inferior tools, no offense. Iv never come CLOSE to stripping out a screw head on an of my Kyosho kits.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:01 AM   #5126
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Kyosho kit screws are the best in the industry. My 2mm hex fits Kyosho screws like O.J.'s glove. Sounds to me like you're using inferior tools, no offense. Iv never come CLOSE to stripping out a screw head on an of my Kyosho kits.
+100
i've stripped screws on just about every other brand at one time or another, but after building two KYO's and rebuilding them 10x's over, their all in perfect shape.

what tools are you using?
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:42 AM   #5127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
First night with the new rb6! The car was great, felt so smooth and plush. I instantly felt good with it and got some lap times that were better than I thought I would get tonight, and didn't break anything. I used Brandon's setup (thanks), but with stock pistons 37.5/32.5. I might go lighter for oils as I bounced around a little bit.
I am sold on Kyosho! I will post pics of the car tomorrow
they are spendy but pick up some Ghea 4/1.3 pistons.. worth the money! then you can bring down your fluid to 30/25

PS~ agreed on the stock Kyosho screws.. I haven't stripped out 1 yet. if this was Losi screws... I would need an extra tap set! lol
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:58 AM   #5128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Kyosho kit screws are the best in the industry. My 2mm hex fits Kyosho screws like O.J.'s glove. Sounds to me like you're using inferior tools, no offense. Iv never come CLOSE to stripping out a screw head on an of my Kyosho kits.
sorry to disagree... I was actually a bit shocked to see how soft the metal is on the kyosho screws... and yes I use the right tools (EDS+Hudy), and yes they're recent and yes I work on many other cars in parallel (Brandon can confirm :P). The RB6 hardware is barely better than the shockingly soft durago screws...

If you want BiC hardware, see Mugen or Tony's. Very disapoointed about this aspect of the RB6. Then again, the rest is top-notch

Paul

PS: Brandon did you ever get that kit or not?
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:02 AM   #5129
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It has been my experience if you use a tool that has a ball end on it chances are that it is starting to wear out. I have an EDS 2.0mm and this is what has happened to it. I can take a non-ball end 2.0mm EDS and not have any issue with it fitting properly.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:07 AM   #5130
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I had my EDS 2.0 wear out within a few months, didn't seem better than any cheap tool. Also a good tip to never use a ball end unless you absolutely need to use it.

My tip is to buy a nice MIP or Hudy 2mm and not worry about it. I've been using my MIP 2mm for about a year now and it looks the same as it did the first day.
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