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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-09-2013, 10:53 AM   #5086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I had the same confusion when I first read the editable setup sheet. Are they talking about the position of the block? or the position of the hole? The sheet says "block position"... which certainly doesn't mean the hole (at least I wouldn't think so)... which is why I annotated such on my setup sheet
Its the position of the hole. In is wide and out is narrow.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:59 AM   #5087
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i was looking at tebos set up from the reedy race and noticed it doesnt match the picture. the rear camber link on the hub is in a dfferent lacation. I wonder if its the same for the crcrc race also. Does anyone know or have a pic from crcrc of his rear hubs and link position.
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:09 PM   #5088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
i was looking at tebos set up from the reedy race and noticed it doesnt match the picture. the rear camber link on the hub is in a dfferent lacation. I wonder if its the same for the crcrc race also. Does anyone know or have a pic from crcrc of his rear hubs and link position.
It could be possible that when the picture was taken it was before he made that adjustment.
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:48 PM   #5089
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could be guess i will just try it out for myself and see what it does.
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Old 02-09-2013, 05:54 PM   #5090
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This is Tebo's car Late Friday at the Reedy Race after one of his mains.

But set-ups change, The track was still a little loose Friday, traction really came in by saturday, tires were all broken in and such.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-tebo-1.jpg  
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:14 PM   #5091
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Has anyone heard anyting on the new SC being released? I see that they discontinued the older one..
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:26 AM   #5092
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see even after one of the mains the setup is different then the sheet. I will give it a shot today and see how it feels i believe the picture compared to the sheet i should loose on entry stability and gain on exit. I have been doing lots of changes to that car since my base set up just to see what else the car has to offer. its hard to decide what to run for me as the car is really competitive in many configurations. keeps me up at night trying to figure out how i want to race the car. dam these great kyosho cars dam them to hell!! Is anyone on this forum going to motorama? I think alot of you guys are from out west no?
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:47 PM   #5093
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Quick question. I'm about to buy the exoteck alloy steering rack, should I buy the alloy steering cranks also?
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:04 PM   #5094
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No, the rack will give you a more direct feel and fix what was the weak link in the system.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:22 PM   #5095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
No, the rack will give you a more direct feel and fix what was the weak link in the system.
Thanks for the quick response.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:29 PM   #5096
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I would go with all aluminum to eliminate as many weak links as possible. I have the exotek rack, steering cranks and losi 22 aluminum servo horn(I stripped the stock one). Had to move the servo up 1mm and drill the hole to make the ballstud fit through with a nut on the back. Just drilling for the Kyosho ballstud is probably plenty, i just wanted it taller so it doesn;t bind against the rack at the very end of the travel.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:43 PM   #5097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
My solution was to ask Kurt Wenger (Avid R&D guy who created the part, former product designer at AE, known as "Coach") to show me how to set the triad - then do it for me.

It's perfect now. I just can't ever, ever take it off.
In the instructions we tell you to take it apart, wipe everything down, and then re-assemble after you've broken in everything (usually 1 race night). The white pads will be more polished and you can wipe off all the residue from initial run-in. Just put it back together and usually the spring will be collapsed to 9.5 to 10mm when it's set right. I can usually set them by hand. If you can't slip the clutch with your hand turning the spur, it's too tight.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:08 PM   #5098
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finally got to run the Rb6 today, and it just so happend to be a huge track lol, 115x200 med traction and not exactly smooth, the rb6 handled awesome i was very suprised. I ran with the saddle packs and didnt have a problem hooking up, didnt have as much time as i wanted with it to get the setup completely dialed but it was close enough to drive. I went through 2 steering racks and it didnt take much to break em ( i knew they were a weak part after reading all the issues on here) just wanted to try em out. besides that no breakage the car was a tank. Im working on some aluminum racks and some CF racks that are a little different from the stock ones. ( it would be to easy for me to buy one thats already out lol) should have a video to put up in a day or so
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:46 AM   #5099
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Tried that set up change thats in the picture. Definitely worth the 30 seconds it took to change it. Not to sure i'm a big fan of the rear shock package though
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:00 AM   #5100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
I would go with all aluminum to eliminate as many weak links as possible. I have the exotek rack, steering cranks and losi 22 aluminum servo horn(I stripped the stock one). Had to move the servo up 1mm and drill the hole to make the ballstud fit through with a nut on the back. Just drilling for the Kyosho ballstud is probably plenty, i just wanted it taller so it doesn;t bind against the rack at the very end of the travel.
You'd have to hit a wall with the wheels turned at full speed to really find another weakness. The car doesn't need it and your going to break ball cups or servos.

All that aluminum is nice but not needed on a race car.
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