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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-07-2013, 03:36 PM   #5056
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
With my B4 pads.... my lock nut is tightened down 98% of the way. I wonder if my spring is wearing out already?
I wonder if we shouldn't take the springs out and stretch them back out a little w/ pliers? I think that's what I'll do ... while also double checking assembly
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:44 PM   #5057
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New setups posted on kyoshoamerica.com

Jared Tebo's 2013 Reedy Race RB6 setup
His setup sheet says hes running block position OUT, but pictures show he was running IN... hhmm.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:04 PM   #5058
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Regarding the front axles, I've been playing with moving the spacers around on the stock 6 axles. Moving both of the plastic spacers to the outside of the axle (pushing the axle out) makes enough room for other wheels (JC & Avid) to clear the steering knuckle and the wheel. But of course you also increase your front track width at the same time. Just another thing to play with if you either want to run a different front wheel and/or change front track width.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:21 PM   #5059
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don't forget to re-check/adjust your toe-in and camber afterwards
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:27 PM   #5060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusttt View Post
interesting it says Tresrey at the bottom of the page

http://www.yaiba-racing.com/index_eng.html
i have to say im not a fan of all the graphics etched into many of the new aftermarket parts. they look much better to me in solid colors...
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:36 PM   #5061
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Exotek have released two BB shock caps. I ordered both and am curious to know how well the older style open caps work using the plastic end pieces? I know the plastic part is in the kit, but are the seals the same too or do I need to buy something?
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:49 PM   #5062
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Default New Kyosho (Factory) RB6 Parts

Some new stuff coming down the pipeline for us...

UMW701 RB6 Alum Steering Rack

UMW702 RB6 Alum Crank Arm

UMW703 RB6 Titanium Screw Kit
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-umw702.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-umw703.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-umw701.jpg  
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:24 PM   #5063
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
His setup sheet says hes running block position OUT, but pictures show he was running IN... hhmm.
Out is narrow and in is wide. He is running his out and compensates with the wider hexes.
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:35 PM   #5064
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That Ti kit interests me. Its dirt cheap compared to some of the offerings from aftermarket companies, like 35 bucks converted!
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:39 PM   #5065
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
2. Your lower shock mount is technically farther away from the car as well, and if your shock length hasn't changed, you have removed droop. (which reduces roll)
This is what I've been suspecting, is that if I change from narrow hangers to wide hangers, the one hole 521-01 will shorten the distance from the outer hole on the 521, so as maintain the same droop if shock length is not changed.
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:00 PM   #5066
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
Not to be a smart ass but my car rotated better with the narrow blocks and less with the wider ones. Exact opposite of what u just explained. My suspension feels softer with the wider blocks. As far as roll resistance is considered, u got me there. Maybe my car is the odd ball but I had different results
This part I'm confused as well, if the narrow blocks give me more forward traction, I'm getting more leverage to really push the car round the (mid to exit) corner as I accelerate through?

Another thing I can't get round, if I'm on wide holders and looking for more traction, why not just add more rear toe? Why go to narrow holders?

I think for noobs such as myself, I would look at laps times
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:43 PM   #5067
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
This part I'm confused as well, if the narrow blocks give me more forward traction, I'm getting more leverage to really push the car round the (mid to exit) corner as I accelerate through?

Another thing I can't get round, if I'm on wide holders and looking for more traction, why not just add more rear toe? Why go to narrow holders?

I think for noobs such as myself, I would look at laps times
i agree, i have yet to run my rb6 ( this weekend will be the first time) i ran my rb5 for awhile, and for bigger outdoor tracks i ran the wide block and it helped me be more stable in sweepers and high speed corners, indoor i used narrow, made the car more nimble on smaller tracks
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:17 PM   #5068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
if the narrow blocks give me more forward traction,
They don't

Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Another thing I can't get round, if I'm on wide holders and looking for more traction, why not just add more rear toe? Why go to narrow holders?
Because more toe does something else entirely. More toe will slow the car down, and decrease corner speed. So while more toe locks the rear end of the car in even MORE, it isn't necessarily the way to go. And there are also other ways of gaining more rear traction besides going to the narrow hangers. It's just one option to lower your roll center.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:19 PM   #5069
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
I'm running the Avid slipper and I really like it - except it seems I've got it tightened down almost to the end of the spring (if that makes since) - in other words the spring is almost fully collapsed. It's 17.5 blinky mode, and it almost needs to be even tighter ... is the spring worn out already?

Anyone else experience this yet?
My solution was to ask Kurt Wenger (Avid R&D guy who created the part, former product designer at AE, known as "Coach") to show me how to set the triad - then do it for me.

It's perfect now. I just can't ever, ever take it off.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:22 PM   #5070
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His setup sheet says hes running block position OUT, but pictures show he was running IN... hhmm.
I'll ask Derek to clarify. I'm guessing he probably created the setup sheet after studying Jared's car. Unless JP did it...
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