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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-07-2013, 12:48 PM   #5041
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Now apply the "traction curve" to slip angles and contact patch

When using a rpm type camber gauge what do you find is the best way to measure camber consistently, rims with no tires? obviously once wheels/tires are run they can deflect..
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #5042
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Now apply the "traction curve" to slip angles and contact patch

When using a rpm type camber gauge what do you find is the best way to measure camber consistently, rims with no tires? obviously once wheels/tires are run they can deflect..
aahhh yes, slip angles... that's another day

Ya know, I have tried 3 different ways to measure camber. 1. on-road setup wheels and fixed tamiya on-road camber gauge, 2. hudy off-road setup station, and 3. plastic rpm gauge up against the tire.

My favorite, is using on-road setup wheels with my on-road gauge. Where I really see a difference, is in the rear of the car. With the setup wheels on, I can measure -1 camber. If I toss the tires back on the car and measure with the RPM, I am usually at 0. Considering the bottom of the tire should be "squished out" more, you would think that it would read something more like -2... but it doesn't. I'm not sure why the big difference.... anybody know? (I admit, I haven't spent much time thinking about it).

(edit: now that I think about it, i guess it would be happening because of how the car is being set down onto the surface. If the outer edge of the tire hits first (at the bottom), it could pull the top of the hub/tire outwards, throwing off the measurement. I bet if you pulled the bottom of the tire outwards when you settle the car, you would get -1 as well... ill have to experiment at the track )
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 02-07-2013 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:40 PM   #5043
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There are a LOT of things you an do (or not do) that can make one end of the car either locked in, or loose. But with everything else being 100% equal, a wider track will yield less grip on that end of the car. (were not talking vast amounts here, just a slight difference)
I went from wide to narrow. Just a very minor difference but more locked down. I like it
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:42 PM   #5044
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Has anyone found the sweet spot for gearing a vst 17.5 in the Rb6?
69 spur 33 pinion blinky mode on a tight track i found to be the best. I also added the associated slipper/kimbrough spur and much better
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:45 PM   #5045
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Ever built kyosho big bore shocks? They are the easiest and most buttery shocks you will ever build.
Echo that. I have built lots of shocks. It is a pleasure to sit and build Kyosho shocks.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:47 PM   #5046
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Yeah, I had made my choice awhile ago. I just needed the cash to buy it. My RB5's will be up on eBay soon.

I saw that one on eBay as well. My local hobby shop is checking for me as well.
I was lucky enough to find mine factory sealed on Ebay for $398.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:48 PM   #5047
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and don't get me started on turnbuckles LOL
For turnbuckles I chuck the ball cup in a drill. Then I hold the turnbuckle with a wrench and slowly turn the drill on. The drill turns the ball cup, obviously, and the turnbuckle threads together nicely.

Now nobody steal my idea and submit it to Car Action. I need that free subscription or whatever they are offering these days for reader submitted tips.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:58 PM   #5048
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I'm running the Avid slipper and I really like it - except it seems I've got it tightened down almost to the end of the spring (if that makes since) - in other words the spring is almost fully collapsed. It's 17.5 blinky mode, and it almost needs to be even tighter ... is the spring worn out already?

Anyone else experience this yet?
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:30 PM   #5049
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Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
I'm running the Avid slipper and I really like it - except it seems I've got it tightened down almost to the end of the spring (if that makes since) - in other words the spring is almost fully collapsed. It's 17.5 blinky mode, and it almost needs to be even tighter ... is the spring worn out already?

Anyone else experience this yet?
Make sure it's assembled correctly. Or disassemble and look for wear on all surfaces of the pads that touch a moving plate, it sounds like you have a shim or washer in the wrong spot so you're only using 1-2 of the 3 pads. My Triad works great with tons of adjustment room left.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:33 PM   #5050
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With my B4 pads.... my lock nut is tightened down 98% of the way. I wonder if my spring is wearing out already?
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 02-07-2013 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:18 PM   #5051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
For turnbuckles I chuck the ball cup in a drill. Then I hold the turnbuckle with a wrench and slowly turn the drill on. The drill turns the ball cup, obviously, and the turnbuckle threads together nicely.

Now nobody steal my idea and submit it to Car Action. I need that free subscription or whatever they are offering these days for reader submitted tips.


I do the same thing. I got tired of trying to do it by hand.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:29 PM   #5052
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New setups posted on kyoshoamerica.com

Jared Tebo's 2013 Reedy Race RB6 setup

Atsushi Hara's 2013 Reedy Race RB6 Mid-motor setup

Jared Tebo's 2013 Reedy Race Lazer ZX-5 SP setup
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:31 PM   #5053
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What is the best way to set the slipper on stock ? I've been having trouble setting my avid correctly, just guessing and adjusting on the track. Don't want to do a clamp-nose-lift as I'll probably burn my 17.5 out...
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:33 PM   #5054
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Can someone tell me what the advantage or purpose of running the RB5 front spindles is. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:34 PM   #5055
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
What is the best way to set the slipper on stock ? I've been having trouble setting my avid correctly, just guessing and adjusting on the track. Don't want to do a clamp-nose-lift as I'll probably burn my 17.5 out...
... yep, I've been doing the same thing trying to get it just right. The trouble is you can't hear your car w/ all the other cars and noise, ect ...
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