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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-05-2013, 08:34 AM   #4951
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After breaking my 3rd stock rear camber plate the other day, even with set screws in the empty holes and longer ballstuds with a nut on the bottom, I decided to order the Exotek and see what happens.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:41 AM   #4952
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After breaking my 3rd stock rear camber plate the other day, even with set screws in the empty holes and longer ballstuds with a nut on the bottom, I decided to order the Exotek and see what happens.
I put mine on this week.. VERY nice piece. I wouldn't run it without a pair of lunsford ti ball studs though (which I run everywhere). You don't want to risk breaking a weaker stock ball stud off in the alu piece.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:01 AM   #4953
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Going to really get into the build tonight, probably going with the kit setup but if anybody had any better starting points, tips, or advice I would greatly appreciate it. I drive trcr and Bremerton, indoor clay med - high traction, wet in the morning dries out and traction comes up in evening.
I picked up some of the longer ball studs an some losi 55's, and ae spur and pads. But that's pretty much it so far.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:14 AM   #4954
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Going to really get into the build tonight, probably going with the kit setup but if anybody had any better starting points, tips, or advice I would greatly appreciate it. I drive trcr and Bremerton, indoor clay med - high traction, wet in the morning dries out and traction comes up in evening.
I picked up some of the longer ball studs an some losi 55's, and ae spur and pads. But that's pretty much it so far.
ya go with Brandon's set up since he's at the same track... LOL

OR you just better than him? (just kidding... haha) He has a pretty solid set up and you can tweak from there
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:32 AM   #4955
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz View Post
After breaking my 3rd stock rear camber plate the other day, even with set screws in the empty holes and longer ballstuds with a nut on the bottom, I decided to order the Exotek and see what happens.
I found this site when i did a search for exotek camber plate review. Looks like it's new....nice little review

http://2wdmod.com/2013/01/09/exotek-...er-plate-love/
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:11 AM   #4956
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Looking at his setup on petit, unfortunately I don't have the ghea pistons. But I do have gold springs. Maybe ill try Cody kings shock package from the recent wcrc setup, with Brandon's setup.

I also have nice saddles for the wheeler so I will have to run those, probably in stick configuration, has anybody had success running them in the side by side configuration?
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:33 AM   #4957
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Looking at his setup on petit, unfortunately I don't have the ghea pistons. But I do have gold springs. Maybe ill try Cody kings shock package from the recent wcrc setup, with Brandon's setup.
PM Brandon and he can point you in the right direction. If using stock 5 hold kyosho pistons I think the fluid was 37.5F/ 30R
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:51 AM   #4958
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Worth it. Front carbon tower is bling depending on who you ask. I have almost all the exotek parts on my 6 and wouldn't go back to stock, no reason to.
+1 for me all exotek aluminum pieces, except the shock balls and the red diff nut no reason to go back, now if they just make the front suspension hanger in red...
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:10 AM   #4959
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Start with the kit setup
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:37 AM   #4960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
Looking at his setup on petit, unfortunately I don't have the ghea pistons. But I do have gold springs. Maybe ill try Cody kings shock package from the recent wcrc setup, with Brandon's setup.

I also have nice saddles for the wheeler so I will have to run those, probably in stick configuration, has anybody had success running them in the side by side configuration?
Careful with the saddles... They will work fine, but your car will be HEAVY, for sure. With a lo-pro servo, and a 205 gram shorty pack, my RB6 comes in at 1560 grams on the dot, which is a nice medium/medium light car. It is FAR better at 1560 than it was at 1660 with a 305 gram full sized lipo. Matesa finally just made the switch and claims he loves the car much more with his shorty. Might want to ask him if he still holds that opinion after making the switch a couple weeks ago.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:41 PM   #4961
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i thought i would try the saddles, but i already know i will probably go to a shorty.
next paycheck tho

Edit: what shorty packs are you guys running? i would like to get one at a decent price, dont want to spend 100$ if i dont have to, if its a good deal i wil get 2 . thanks

Last edited by ryanpatrickgore; 02-05-2013 at 01:35 PM. Reason: add question
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:52 PM   #4962
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Was looking at the setup sheets and what does the .5mm and 1mm spacer do under the kickup 25 or 30 degree block? What does the caster block position in or out mean?

Last edited by HalfManHalfGod; 02-05-2013 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:49 PM   #4963
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
i thought i would try the saddles, but i already know i will probably go to a shorty.
next paycheck tho

Edit: what shorty packs are you guys running? i would like to get one at a decent price, dont want to spend 100$ if i dont have to, if its a good deal i wil get 2 . thanks
Intellect pro 4600 shorty 80C. Best bang for buck. Forget the nanotechs and gens ace, the IR creeps up over the months.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:19 PM   #4964
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore View Post
i thought i would try the saddles, but i already know i will probably go to a shorty.
next paycheck tho

Edit: what shorty packs are you guys running? i would like to get one at a decent price, dont want to spend 100$ if i dont have to, if its a good deal i wil get 2 . thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Intellect pro 4600 shorty 80C. Best bang for buck. Forget the nanotechs and gens ace, the IR creeps up over the months.
Yes, the IPs are top shelf packs. If Fantom packs weren't an option, I would run the IPs.

I have two of these and they are worth every penny.
http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN26192

Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfManHalfGod View Post
Was looking at the setup sheets and what does the .5mm and 1mm spacer do under the kickup 25 or 30 degree block? What does the caster block position in or out mean?
Technically it raises and lowers your front roll center, at the lower control arm position. No spacer for less roll/steering, larger spacer for more roll/steering. See if you can even tell a difference.

Caster block positions refer to running the caster blocks in the outer position for a wider front track, or in the inner position for a more narrow front track.
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Old 02-05-2013, 03:01 PM   #4965
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz View Post
After breaking my 3rd stock rear camber plate the other day, even with set screws in the empty holes and longer ballstuds with a nut on the bottom, I decided to order the Exotek and see what happens.
what did you hit?
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