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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-03-2013, 04:34 PM   #4921
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I bought the rb6 used. I wasn't aware of the caster inserts and front bulk adjustment. The car had a total of 34 deg (30+4) and narrow rear (RF). The car pushed. I went rf2 rear and 25 deg caster (25+0). Better, but could still use some more steering. So I decided to do 29 deg (25+4) and OH WOW did this car wake up. I had A LOT of steering. It was a HUGE different to where my rear was spinning out where before it never did! I think this car loves 29 deg of caster!
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:58 PM   #4922
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30+0 drives much different than 25+4. It's only 1* of caster change, but several degrees of kickup change between the two.. try 30+0 for a lot more off power steering. Remember ball stud washers, springs(Pink and Gold are my choice by far), and ride height adjustments make a huge difference, and should be fine tuned at the track
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:35 PM   #4923
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Guys what are the pros and cons of using an alum front hinge pin holder, like those from GHEA and STRC? Thanks,
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:50 PM   #4924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Guys what are the pros and cons of using an alum front hinge pin holder, like those from GHEA and STRC? Thanks,
Answer from previous page:

Quote:
Originally Posted by pli View Post
The GHEA aluminium version weighs 10g (stock plastic version is 5g), but main difference is that it will not flex and deform like the plastic one does. When deformed the angles of the hinge pins change, which will not only change your setup but also cause the shock ball ends to eventually break off since the suspension arms doesn't travel with the proper angle to the shocks. It also causes UM720 to be bent out of shape very easily.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:52 PM   #4925
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Quote:
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Answer from previous page:
Thanks, and Cons, other than price and the +5g?
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:37 PM   #4926
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Idk, not many people have ran em.. I don't think it's necessary. The 720b stronger front brace is very tough, so don't buy the GHEA pivot block to save the 720 front part from bending. Another con would be a greater possibility of breaking front A arms due to reducing flex overall in a hard impact. If you buy one, run it a while then let us know how it performs plz.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:23 PM   #4927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
There is also a ton of information on post #1.
You know, ever since you did that this thread has been pretty quiet. I guess people are starting to find the information on their own. Nice work!
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:25 PM   #4928
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^^^^^yeah, what he said.
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:50 PM   #4929
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Do you guys change out the balls in your diff each time you rebuild the diff, or do you just flip the rings, clean everything and re-assemble? I'm not yet familiar with the longevity of the stock diff balls ...
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:54 PM   #4930
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I would usually flip the rings but this last time i just cleaned, re-greased, and its still butter smooth!!!! very impressed with Kyosho other than the plastic suspension holders!!! lol
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:59 PM   #4931
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
I would usually flip the rings but this last time i just cleaned, re-greased, and its still butter smooth!!!! very impressed with Kyosho other than the plastic suspension holders!!! lol
Ya, me too!
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:31 PM   #4932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
You know, ever since you did that this thread has been pretty quiet. I guess people are starting to find the information on their own. Nice work!
You guys are all very very welcome... I'm just glad to help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
^^^^^yeah, what he said.
TY

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
Do you guys change out the balls in your diff each time you rebuild the diff, or do you just flip the rings, clean everything and re-assemble? I'm not yet familiar with the longevity of the stock diff balls ...
Both... There are 2 kinds of rebuilds I do with my kyosho diffs

1.) about once a month I break them down, clean everything completely, flip and/or sand the rings, regrease, and rebuild.
2.) As soon as I start to feel some grittyness (flat spots on balls or dmg to rings), I buy new diff balls, new thrust balls, and new rings. I then rebuild with the new parts and im good to go. I think I do this 3 times a year, give or take. The rings can be flipped, and sanded flat again. But I usually don't sand a side more than once. So that is a grand total of 4 builds per set of rings, two per side.

Also... new out drives are needed when they start to notch up too much.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:35 PM   #4933
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Also... new out drives are needed when they start to notch up too much.[/QUOTE]

That's why I was thinking about freshening up the diff - I'm about to need new outdrives. I figure I'll have it taken apart, might as well...

It's crazy that the diff outlasts the outdrives
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:55 PM   #4934
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Quote:
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It's crazy that the diff outlasts the outdrives
Also the pins in the swingshafts.. .they both wear like crazy. I am waiting to hear if there is any noticable durability benefits of the entire MIP system that just came out (full CVDs and Diff for the ultimas)
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:17 PM   #4935
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I've notice a lot of the current setups are using 4 hole 55 pistons. Can you just glue 1 hole shut on the 5 hole stock pistons and drill the other 4 to 55 and get the same results?
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