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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-29-2013, 08:14 AM
  #4846  
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
giving them as charity to the RB5 owners...

Nice. That's what I figured. Mine just came off back order from a main so I will have a few to give away.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:28 AM
  #4847  
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Make sure you get the RB5 rear outter hinge pins if you run the 521-1 arms. The Rb6 pins have a nut on both ends and go all the way through the 6 arms. Where the 521-1 arms use a shorter outer pin that is captured by the arm on one end and a small screw on the other end. You can make the Rb6 hinge pins work if you have to...if you want to drill the arm and have the hinge pin sticking out too far.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:30 AM
  #4848  
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LA229 are the hinge pins you want to run with the 521-1 arms.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:49 AM
  #4849  
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
LA229 are the hinge pins you want to run with the 521-1 arms.

Thanks sy. I will add that to the order. Are you running the standard arms or the rb5 arms?
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:52 AM
  #4850  
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I went back to the Rb6 arms for now.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:54 AM
  #4851  
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
I went back to the Rb6 arms for now.
Did you notice a difference? Our track generally has good bite so I would think it wouldn't be much of an issue.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:09 AM
  #4852  
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Originally Posted by HalfManHalfGod
I accidentally bought this one rather the regular um720 part. Whats the difference between this and the stock part? I just took a look and it appears they are the same size.
The original part bends really easy and at something like $14.00 it is a tough pill to swallow! Looks like Kyosho redesigned it to fix this issue. No more pliers to bend back hopefully! LOL

On a side note. After one too many Donkey Flips my bumper deformed causing this hinge plate to slip off the hinge pins CONSTANTLY. I used a heat gun, headed up the bumper and exagerated the original bend in the bumper. This has worked out perfect and alleviated the problem this far.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:09 AM
  #4853  
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
Make sure you get the RB5 rear outter hinge pins if you run the 521-1 arms. The Rb6 pins have a nut on both ends and go all the way through the 6 arms. Where the 521-1 arms use a shorter outer pin that is captured by the arm on one end and a small screw on the other end. You can make the Rb6 hinge pins work if you have to...if you want to drill the arm and have the hinge pin sticking out too far.
I just reamed out the part that captures the pin a tad and the regular pin fits, just use a 2mm shim on either side and it works perfect.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:14 AM
  #4854  
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The different arms have a different feel, but I'm not sold one is better than the other.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:38 AM
  #4855  
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Can someone tell me if the M566 WC rear arms are the same as the 521-1 arms?
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:06 AM
  #4856  
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Originally Posted by K_King
RB5 arms actually give the rear end more grip.
+1 I agree. Anytime I was on the trigger, the car felt more locked in. Acceleration was much better and more predictable. Also, the 5 arms felt less dumpy in the rear.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:51 AM
  #4857  
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Originally Posted by BranVita
Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Interesting.. he's running the short front track width, but is running the wide hexes.
Maybe it is just me but doesn't it look like he is running the front axles off of the SCR-SP instead of the 5? The car front axles has the hex area machined into it from what I remember.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:05 AM
  #4858  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Maybe it is just me but doesn't it look like he is running the front axles off of the SCR-SP instead of the 5? The car front axles has the hex area machined into it from what I remember.
hhnm.. im not sure what you mean, i guess i didn't realize there was a difference.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:07 AM
  #4859  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
Maybe it is just me but doesn't it look like he is running the front axles off of the SCR-SP instead of the 5? The car front axles has the hex area machined into it from what I remember.
Originally Posted by Cpt.America
hhnm.. im not sure what you mean, i guess i didn't realize there was a difference.
You are thinking about the SP2 WC. It has the same axle as the RB6. The old SP2 and previous had the setup Tebo is running.
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:19 PM
  #4860  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Nope.. you change front track width of the rb6, with the rb6 caster block inserts. Hole to the outside, or hole to the inside. Have to make sure you orient them so that you don't also flip your caster affect though... a +2 caster insert can also be a -2 if put in the wrong way.

So Tebo is running the narrow front track width, but wide front hexes. Since roll center is measured out to the center of the tire contact patch... im not sure what this will accomplish, except maybe let him run a different offset front wheel without drastically changing his track... just a guess.
I love this hobby and I love my RB6. I can't get too technical as it will fry my brain. I tell you what though. Seeing Tebo, Cavalieri and all the guys at Reedy Race - now that is cool. WOW. I wish my fellow club racers hand the same driver etiquet.
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