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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-28-2013, 07:15 PM   #4831
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
+10 drive a stock 6 and tell me it's not heads above the cars out there. They say the 5 arms free the car up in the rear but they every setup I've seen they're adding more toe to lock it back down. I bought the -1 arms but I'm so in love with how it handles now I won't make the change any any soon.
RB5 arms actually give the rear end more grip.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:27 PM   #4832
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Originally Posted by b121774 View Post
Just saw this, sorry if already posted http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Plate-Type-B
Of course, I bought the old 720 plate last night from A Main and got the notice saying it shipped an hour before you posted this...
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #4833
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Originally Posted by b121774 View Post
Just saw this, sorry if already posted http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Plate-Type-B

Ordered! Thanks.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:23 PM   #4834
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hey guys, i keep seeing all this talk about y tebo runs the rb5 axle.. he also runs aka wheels. these wheels like the proline wheels have a deeper hex molded into them. so if you run the rb6 front axle with these rims they rub the spindles carrier a little bit. i just dremel the wheel tio make it work with the 6 front axle, if yo measure the rb5 axle with the hex it is in fact the same measurement as the rb 6 one, so really its not changing anything on the car except know he he can run his sponsors rims with zero issues.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:31 PM   #4835
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So what's the difference in running the rb5 axles, and just putting a spacer behind the rb6 axle?
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:20 PM   #4836
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"the rb5 axle with the hex it is in fact the same measurement as the rb 6 one" - I always thought this was true too?

I use the rb5 with hex for the simple fact I don't have to deal with threadlock.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:20 PM   #4837
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Originally Posted by Gary NJ View Post
Of course, I bought the old 720 plate last night from A Main and got the notice saying it shipped an hour before you posted this...
Ditto but from Speedtechrc
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:46 PM   #4838
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Ok I assembled my MIP Diff and the cvds. The fit and finish is excellent, the diff is butter smooth. The thrust bearings are confusing, the manual says 6 balls, but my bag had 7 balls so I built it with that many.

Also just to reiterate, the diff outdrives are SAME SIZE as kyosho ones so both Kyosho swing shafts and MIP will work. My assumption was wrong I had thought its thicker pins.

The best was the keyed axles, the hex feels really really solid and true. No weak thin plate to bend now like the regular k hex. I forgot to weigh the MIP diff though but by feel it weighs the same maybe even a bit less with the machining on the outdrives.


PS, I bent my third 720 plate this race glad to see they finally fixed that!!
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:08 PM   #4839
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
hey guys, i keep seeing all this talk about y tebo runs the rb5 axle.. he also runs aka wheels. these wheels like the proline wheels have a deeper hex molded into them. so if you run the rb6 front axle with these rims they rub the spindles carrier a little bit. i just dremel the wheel tio make it work with the 6 front axle, if yo measure the rb5 axle with the hex it is in fact the same measurement as the rb 6 one, so really its not changing anything on the car except know he he can run his sponsors rims with zero issues.
The axles may be the same length but my shallow hex K wheels have less offset than my deep hex JC fronts (think they are JC) by .03 or .035". I just run a .03 wheel spacer and dont have to grind the wheel with the rb6 axles. Something to dbl check.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:22 PM   #4840
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I run AKA wheels on front with stock axles and have zero clearance issues???

I also run them on the rear with a serrated wheel nut of course.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:04 AM   #4841
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Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
.the question is, do you have to adjust the length of the rear shocks when you make the switch and if so what is the better way...I am guessing by changing the ball ends with the medium ones?
I pointed this out earlier in the thread--having noticed the same issue, that the straight arms create a smaller triangle thus a shorter distance between shock ends for a given ride height. Someone gave me the condescending ??? type reaction

You can see from the first Tebo setup sheet that he does in fact use the medium ball ends presumably to compensate for this difference. When I first put the RB5 arms on with the long ball ends the spring adjustment was backed way out to get my ride height.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:16 AM   #4842
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Ordered! Thanks.
yes the first one is like tin. i am curious to know from others why the front is built as it is? why does the aluminum piece exist, and why are the hinge pins not captured by some other part of the front end? As it is designed a thicker bumper would help but maybe there is a performance explanation for not having a thicker bumper. Would it negatively effect the car by having it twice as thick? And why not a carbon fiber plate? I assume it would crack but not faster than the aluminum one bends beyond repair
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:07 AM   #4843
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So I am new to the kyosho experience and wow is it confusing with all the part numbers from the rb5. Finally have the car nearly built and noticed that the rb5 rear arms only come 1 to a pack with one front arm. So I am now waiting for those to come off back order.

What are people that are running these rear arms doing with the rb5 front arms?
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:11 AM   #4844
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Originally Posted by jackcarter3 View Post
So I am new to the kyosho experience and wow is it confusing with all the part numbers from the rb5. Finally have the car nearly built and noticed that the rb5 rear arms only come 1 to a pack with one front arm. So I am now waiting for those to come off back order.

What are people that are running these rear arms doing with the rb5 front arms?
giving them as charity to the RB5 owners...
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:11 AM   #4845
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Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
Yeah, I see that on the CRCRC setup sheet. So what is Brandon talking about with the narrow track width. I thought that could only be changed through the caster block...
Nope.. you change front track width of the rb6, with the rb6 caster block inserts. Hole to the outside, or hole to the inside. Have to make sure you orient them so that you don't also flip your caster affect though... a +2 caster insert can also be a -2 if put in the wrong way.

So Tebo is running the narrow front track width, but wide front hexes. Since roll center is measured out to the center of the tire contact patch... im not sure what this will accomplish, except maybe let him run a different offset front wheel without drastically changing his track... just a guess.
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