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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-24-2013, 10:14 AM   #4666
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My track just announced that they are going to ban the D3.5 motor (http://www.roarracing.com/?p=1842) in our blinky 17.5T class. Which renders my brand new Fantom D3.5 obsolete. You guys have any suggestions on another motor? I know this really isnt thread specific but I wanted to see what you guys were running in your RB6s since its a little heftier than other buggies.
Id run a Fantom Apex (this is actually the motor I run). It is 100% as fast as my D3.5. Stellar motors. (look at the price, too)

None of the shurrspeeds or reedy sonics can keep up. Gear it 69/31 with the endbell timing maxed out, and run the Fantom 4500 shorty lipo. If you get your car to a reasonable weight, somewhere around 1560, you will have the fastest 17.5 buggy at your track.

http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...prod=FAN27917T
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:23 AM   #4667
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Id run a Fantom Apex (this is actually the motor I run). It is 100% as fast as my D3.5. Stellar motors. (look at the price, too)

None of the shurrspeeds or reedy sonics can keep up. Gear it 69/31 with the endbell timing maxed out, and run the Fantom 4500 shorty lipo. If you get your car to a reasonable weight, somewhere around 1560, you will have the fastest 17.5 buggy at your track.

http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...prod=FAN27917T
Thanks for the input everyone. What rotor do you recomend (12.3 or 12.5 and broad or high torque) Im on a small/medium size indoor clay track.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:34 AM   #4668
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Thanks for the input everyone. What rotor do you recomend (12.3 or 12.5 and broad or high torque) Im on a small/medium size indoor clay track.
oops! forgot that part 12.5 High Torque.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:35 AM   #4669
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Thanks for the input everyone. What rotor do you recomend (12.3 or 12.5 and broad or high torque) Im on a small/medium size indoor clay track.
I'd try a MurfDogg motor as well. Never had an issue getting motored.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:39 AM   #4670
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Interested to know what Tebo will be running re RB6/FS2 new parts at Reedy race
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:39 AM   #4671
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I will head down and find out...
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:30 PM   #4672
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The caster block uses an insert with an offset hole which can be inserted from the front or back of the caster block to adjust width i think 2mm per side and is also used to adjust caster up to +/- 4* from 0.
I am building this part of the car now. My buddies set up calls for o* narrow. Do I simply switch the L and R to get the narrow setting? Meaning no flipping or turning, just a straight swap?
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:54 PM   #4673
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I am building this part of the car now. My buddies set up calls for o* narrow. Do I simply switch the L and R to get the narrow setting? Meaning no flipping or turning, just a straight swap?
Exactly. Hole to the inside is for a wide track... hole to the outside for a narrow track width. (i think i got that right.. dont have the car in front of me).
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:59 PM   #4674
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I am building this part of the car now. My buddies set up calls for o* narrow. Do I simply switch the L and R to get the narrow setting? Meaning no flipping or turning, just a straight swap?
I'd do a background check on your "buddy" before you used his setup.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #4675
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I'd do a background check on your "buddy" before you used his setup.
Are you using that set up sy? Building off of mike and brants build. They are fast with it.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:20 PM   #4676
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Are you using that set up sy? Building off of mike and brants build. They are fast with it.
I prefer the 4* inserts using the wide stance. But there's no denying those two guys are flying with the 0* narrow setup.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:23 PM   #4677
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0* narrow felt super aggressive and overly twitchy to me. Tons of steering. But I'm just the water guy.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:35 PM   #4678
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0* narrow felt super aggressive and overly twitchy to me. Tons of steering. But I'm just the water guy.

My 210 was pretty aggressive just not consistent. Maybe I will like it. You should answer your phone when I call. I don't care if you're out of town. I needed you and you weren't there for me
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:45 PM   #4679
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Exactly. Hole to the inside is for a wide track... hole to the outside for a narrow track width. (i think i got that right.. dont have the car in front of me).
Not arguing but that doesn't make sense to me, If the hole is inside wouldn't that put the hinge pin/steering block closer to the bulkhead making it a narrow track ?
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:57 PM   #4680
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Not arguing but that doesn't make sense to me, If the hole is inside wouldn't that put the hinge pin/steering block closer to the bulkhead making it a narrow track ?
No easy way to explain but capts right. Ill try, inner on spindle means less material towards center of the car and more outwards, so that why increases track width.
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