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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-23-2013, 09:17 PM   #4651
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Originally Posted by savageboy69 View Post
one thing that i started doing awhile back that helped alot was try whatever adjustment you are wondering about but exagerate it, so like how you are asking about shims, rather than adding one shim and possibly not noticing anything add 3 or 4, then you get it stuck in your head what is accomplished by adding shims, or even shock position, if you are thinking of laying a shock in one hole, go all the way, if its too much back it off a hole, but at least you know for future reference what changes will do what,
I think that's a good tip. Not everyone runs on perfect indoor bluegroove TC tracks . Adding 0.5 shim under the sus block is gonna make one iota of a difference on a loamy blown out dirt track
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:22 PM   #4652
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one thing that i started doing awhile back that helped alot was try whatever adjustment you are wondering about but exagerate it, so like how you are asking about shims, rather than adding one shim and possibly not noticing anything add 3 or 4, then you get it stuck in your head what is accomplished by adding shims, or even shock position, if you are thinking of laying a shock in one hole, go all the way, if its too much back it off a hole, but at least you know for future reference what changes will do what,
Yea, I unintentionally tried a drastic change. I went from the 0 caster inserts to the 4 inserts looking for a calmer feel but accidently put them in backwards which was actually -4. Holy twitchy!
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:33 PM   #4653
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Yea, I unintentionally tried a drastic change. I went from the 0 caster inserts to the 4 inserts looking for a calmer feel but accidently put them in backwards which was actually -4. Holy twitchy!
lol yea, but like i was saying now you know the effects of changing your caster and you can refer back to that if need be. you see a lot of people that will just copy a setup go run there buggy and it may be drivable or it may completely suck, the fact is that everyone drives different and whats different things from there cars, you have to know what changes to make to get the desired results
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:22 AM   #4654
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How do you go about changing the front track width? Are there different width front suspension blocks?

I'll assume there are wide and narrow king pin braces too.

Does the RB6 come with the wide or narrow option, and which of the RB5s comes with the other?

edit: The manual refers to the suspension block as "standard," so am I correct in assuming the the RB6 comes with the more narrow block?
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:10 AM   #4655
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How do you go about changing the front track width? Are there different width front suspension blocks?

I'll assume there are wide and narrow king pin braces too.

Does the RB6 come with the wide or narrow option, and which of the RB5s comes with the other?

edit: The manual refers to the suspension block as "standard," so am I correct in assuming the the RB6 comes with the more narrow block?
You change the track width by putting the 0-4 caster inserts in or out. In is narrow out is wide..
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:15 AM   #4656
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How do you go about changing the front track width? Are there different width front suspension blocks?
The caster block uses an insert with an offset hole which can be inserted from the front or back of the caster block to adjust width i think 2mm per side and is also used to adjust caster up to +/- 4* from 0.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:31 AM   #4657
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Ah, okay. Just flip them. Thanks.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:37 AM   #4658
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if you are trying to run the narrow front set up you need to exchange the right and left hand side inserts. be sure you dont put them in upside down or the car will be twitchy as you will be removing caster. also top shotta i recommend putting them in just like the manual suggests until you figure out what you want from the car. then play with that
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:58 AM   #4659
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My track just announced that they are going to ban the D3.5 motor (http://www.roarracing.com/?p=1842) in our blinky 17.5T class. Which renders my brand new Fantom D3.5 obsolete. You guys have any suggestions on another motor? I know this really isnt thread specific but I wanted to see what you guys were running in your RB6s since its a little heftier than other buggies.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:02 AM   #4660
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My track just announced that they are going to ban the D3.5 motor (http://www.roarracing.com/?p=1842) in our blinky 17.5T class. Which renders my brand new Fantom D3.5 obsolete. You guys have any suggestions on another motor?
The Reedy Sonic seems to be the next fast 17.5. What track banned them? Norcal?
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:10 AM   #4661
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The Reedy Sonic seems to be the next fast 17.5. What track banned them? Norcal?
Yeah they just announced it last night. They are going to let everyone use it for the rest of the winter buggy series and then ban it. Which kind of sucks because they sold a good amount of them too.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:21 AM   #4662
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Originally Posted by savageboy69 View Post
one thing that i started doing awhile back that helped alot was try whatever adjustment you are wondering about but exagerate it, so like how you are asking about shims, rather than adding one shim and possibly not noticing anything add 3 or 4, then you get it stuck in your head what is accomplished by adding shims, or even shock position, if you are thinking of laying a shock in one hole, go all the way, if its too much back it off a hole, but at least you know for future reference what changes will do what,
That is a great IDEA or METHOD to the madness. Because I don't care where you are or when it was, you will remember that exact date and time when your car sucked....lol
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:27 AM   #4663
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Originally Posted by pekow91 View Post
My track just announced that they are going to ban the D3.5 motor (http://www.roarracing.com/?p=1842) in our blinky 17.5T class. Which renders my brand new Fantom D3.5 obsolete. You guys have any suggestions on another motor? I know this really isnt thread specific but I wanted to see what you guys were running in your RB6s since its a little heftier than other buggies.
If I were going to buy a 17.5 it would be a Schuur Speed.....hands down.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:32 AM   #4664
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If I were going to buy a 17.5 it would be a Schuur Speed.....hands down.
I own the d3.5, the Sonic and the schuurspeed. I could never get the schuurspeed to be as fast as the other to. I tried all different gearing and timing. The Sonic with it timed to the silver cap screw and geared at 29/72 is dam fast, just as much as the d3.5.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:50 AM   #4665
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Originally Posted by savageboy69 View Post
one thing that i started doing awhile back that helped alot was try whatever adjustment you are wondering about but exagerate it, so like how you are asking about shims, rather than adding one shim and possibly not noticing anything add 3 or 4, then you get it stuck in your head what is accomplished by adding shims, or even shock position, if you are thinking of laying a shock in one hole, go all the way, if its too much back it off a hole, but at least you know for future reference what changes will do what,
+1 ON THIS HELPFUL ADVICE!

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