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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-19-2013, 07:10 PM   #4456
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If you guys run slicks then try the hot bodies pink compound when traction reduces. I have had the best luck with those. I tried losi pink and my car would bobble more.
We use barcodes and sand off the tread. The pro drivers at the track all use them with great results. I only run chassis screws for the rear position. I will try removing those and test. I shortened the wheelbase but didn't notice a major change.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:27 PM   #4457
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We use barcodes and sand off the tread. The pro drivers at the track all use them with great results. I only run chassis screws for the rear position. I will try removing those and test. I shortened the wheelbase but didn't notice a major change.
Out track is like that as well. There aren't many chassis adjustments you can make. A lot of times it comes down to being smoother when you get on the gas
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:57 PM   #4458
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I use a Eurus with 409s receiver. I just bought a RSX One-10 Servo. I use an Orion R10 ESC and 13.5 motor.

The servo worked immediately but it wiggles all the time slightly. As it sits on the bench you can hear the servo working and it shakes. Is this a voltage issue?

I was told to install a glitch buster in the extra Rx port and it didn't help at all.
Take your transponder off of it. Didn't see someone said that already. It did what you described on my sedan and that was the fix.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:31 AM   #4459
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I stripped a servo horn today(all aluminum rack and XP servo) resulting in a DNF.. Turns out a losi 22 aluminum horn fits and has the proper angle. I had to drill the hole a little bigger with a body reamer though(it's threaded but the wrong threads). Also added a 1mm shim to bring it to almost exactly the same position as the OEM one, and put a nut on the back with loc-tite. Just a heads up for you guys

This one for Futaba

Also, anyone have tips for increasing rear grip? Running standard camber link positions with 1mm under both inner and outer ballstuds. Assuming tires are ok, any suggestions? 3 screws are out of side pods, battery can't move, rear gold springs and pink front(try white rear?).. feel free to toss ideas out there, Thanks

Re-edit: Anyone know how much rear Anti squat the RB6 has stock? say no shims under the front suspension hanger.
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Last edited by Just1More; 01-20-2013 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:36 AM   #4460
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Take your transponder off of it. Didn't see someone said that already. It did what you described on my sedan and that was the fix.
Would placing the AMB on top of the lipo cause spiking? Thx
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:52 AM   #4461
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Our track is clay with lots of traction but is described as not high bite like OCRC so our setup is really different. Everyone is running slicks now and its very fast. When the traction goes down a bit the rear end gets loose and spins out easily. What is the first adjustment I should make to fix this? I currently run a shorty battery fully back in car with a low pro servo. Is there too much weight in the rear? If I move the battery forward what will happen? Less traction I assume...

hey i notice you are from ny. where do you race? thanks.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:17 AM   #4462
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Check out my set up on petit rc it has tons of rear traction. Its under base setups and the name tom epting.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:12 AM   #4463
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Do the AE slipper plates fit without issue? Having a brain fart over here.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:20 AM   #4464
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Big shout out to Zach Phillips for the help with my new car....thanks bro


ran the rb6 for the first time yesterday....best time with rb5 sp2 on current layout was 18-5:06.......yesterday in rd3 I got 19-5:16 with my new car....put me in the Bmain....got one of the bumps from the B into the A(19-5:04 in the Bmain).....Amain was stacked with some of the midwests' top drivers, I started 10th on the grid and finished 8th....was up to 5th at one point and didnt stay with it, this is my first season running mod and I LOVE IT.....rb6 is so good it's crazy! I was running cut green barcodes front and rear....I did pull a ball stud out of front left caster block...repalced with longer ones.

Im using all of Tebo's CRCRC camber link locations and ballstud spacers, shock locations, Im using stock 6 rear arms/hubs, narrow blocks....stock pistons with 35/30r TLR fluid, pink front/red rear springs.....I dont have any doubt whatsoever that the car will get better!
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Last edited by Trevor Williams; 01-20-2013 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:40 AM   #4465
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Cpt.America,

Can you provide closer shots on how you wired your ESC in your car? How and where did you route the wires?

To anyone:

Does a AE 1015 servo fit in the car?

Where can I get the "slipper eliminator"?

I will be ordering my car soon, much appreciated for the information. Thanks!
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:47 AM   #4466
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Cpt.America,

Can you provide closer shots on how you wired your ESC in your car? How and where did you route the wires?

To anyone:

Does a AE 1015 servo fit in the car?

Where can I get the "slipper eliminator"?

I will be ordering my car soon, much appreciated for the information. Thanks!
Here for the slipper eliminator http://www.speedysracingparts.com/As...eliminator.htm
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:59 AM   #4467
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I was tweaking on th car last night with a new setup compared to what I had. Car felt really good even though it looked like it was crazy lol. Of course after this was taken the track hooked up a big more and was running really fast. But anyway.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wEP8COSVt8

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18166464/SD..._Arm_Setup.jpg
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:20 AM   #4468
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Do the AE slipper plates fit without issue? Having a brain fart over here.
plates are a no pads you can run
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:27 AM   #4469
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thanks, I assume the B4 one?
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:40 AM   #4470
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Thanks for all the feedback. Some of you mentioned the solution-transponder interference. I had the transponder on the back of the servo. I unplugged the trans and the servo went quiet. So now I have the trans on top of the servo and its fine. The RSX One-10 does make a little noise even without a trans in the car but works great.
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