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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-16-2013, 09:11 AM   #4351
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Nah, forget teh 5 amrs. If your rear end really is THAT planted, and you are looking for more corner speed, the first thing I would do is switch to 2.5 degrees of rear toe instead of 3. Will be money!
Tried that, but I didn't like the traction it gave up. It felt like it wouldn't lock in when I exited. Since I run stock 17.5 there us a fine line that I'm balancing on. The car is so good right now but now I want more, maybe what I'm looking for isn't obtainable.. But I have to keep searching
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:12 AM   #4352
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The K car needs nothing. The shocks are the cream of the crop, the turnbuckles are indestructible, the ball diff is one of the best in the business, and I have local parts support.
You know what you need to do You will smack yourself for not doing it sooner. And don't forget, you can always keep your AE gear/roller for a month or so just to make sure you actually prefer the 6. If not, you can always sell the 6 and go back.













but you wont
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:31 AM   #4353
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From what I've read, the MR has the lower end shocks, and gear diff. I can live with the shocks, but having to mail order everything and "upgrade" to a ball diff is damn near a deal breaker. There aren't even enough people running it to get a good feel for what breaks/wears prematurely and what doesn't.

The K car needs nothing. The shocks are the cream of the crop, the turnbuckles are indestructible, the ball diff is one of the best in the business, and I have local parts support.
I couldn't agree more. Shocks are cream of the crop. I don't understand why people are changing things out so much. I would go completely crazy....
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:18 AM   #4354
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tr8tot are you running with shorty all the way forward. My style is similar to yours and found that I like shorty best with it all the way forward (base I started with epers setup on petit). I started tuning my setup from that and all thats left now is a little corner push to tune out, which can be fixed with holeshot fronts I think .
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:22 AM   #4355
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How do I figure out how to get the different rear toe combinations? In other words what blocks are needed to get 2.5/3/3.5 etc in rear toe on the 6?
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:44 AM   #4356
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How do I figure out how to get the different rear toe combinations? In other words what blocks are needed to get 2.5/3/3.5 etc in rear toe on the 6?
I believe the toe is fixed at 3 degree's. This means you can't change them at the block. If you need to change the toe then you need to purchase the hubs and install them as needed.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:48 AM   #4357
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How do I figure out how to get the different rear toe combinations? In other words what blocks are needed to get 2.5/3/3.5 etc in rear toe on the 6?
Inboard toe is fixed at 3 degrees. You can only change outboard toe on this car, and it's done with the hubs. Because inboard is 3 degrees, you get:

0 degree hubs = 3
.5 degree hubs = 3.5
1 degree hubs = 4

.5 degree hubs backwards = 2.5
1 degree hubs backwards = 2
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:19 AM   #4358
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Inboard toe is fixed at 3 degrees. You can only change outboard toe on this car, and it's done with the hubs. Because inboard is 3 degrees, you get:

0 degree hubs = 3
.5 degree hubs = 3.5
1 degree hubs = 4

.5 degree hubs backwards = 2.5
1 degree hubs backwards = 2
That would be good to add to your new first post!!
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:20 AM   #4359
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anyone tried the MIP Super Diff for the RB6? I'm thinking about having a built up diff in the tool box ready to go ... for 40 bucks it seems like a good option
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:29 AM   #4360
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I think the stock kyosho outdrives wear out a lot faster. So the MIP might be a good option. Right now I have 1 spare diff fresh after that will get the MIP. Let us know your wear rate on the mips.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:39 AM   #4361
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Inboard toe is fixed at 3 degrees. You can only change outboard toe on this car, and it's done with the hubs. Because inboard is 3 degrees, you get:

0 degree hubs = 3
.5 degree hubs = 3.5
1 degree hubs = 4

.5 degree hubs backwards = 2.5
1 degree hubs backwards = 2
Ok so regardless if you use the wide or narrow hangers its still 3* fixed. Good to know thanks!
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:39 AM   #4362
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That would be good to add to your new first post!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadBlanton View Post
anyone tried the MIP Super Diff for the RB6? I'm thinking about having a built up diff in the tool box ready to go ... for 40 bucks it seems like a good option
I am keeping my eye on the MIP stuff (have been for a year). Currently, I see no reason to move to the MIP Diff, unless the outdrives wear considerably slower. What I am waiting for, are MIP's swing shafts, in hopes they wear a lot slower than the kyosho swing shafts (the pins where they wear on the outdrives). If there is a noticeable improvement in wear, I will change diffs and axle/swingshafts to MIPs. The stock Kyosho pieces just wear too quickly.

The one thing i am not sure about, is the fact that the MIP diff is imperial/standard, and not metric. What does that mean for the outdrive bearings? I assume that part of the diff is metric. Has anybody tried it yet?
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:54 AM   #4363
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Question - Do any of the pro Kyosho driver (Tebo, King), ever get on here to help answer questions from us mear mortals??

I know that pro's from other manufacturers like Durango, AE, Losi, cant do enough to help out.

Dont get me wrong, im Kyosho through & through, but to me some of the top Kyosho guys seem a little quiet.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:30 PM   #4364
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Question - Do any of the pro Kyosho driver (Tebo, King), ever get on here to help answer questions from us mear mortals??

I know that pro's from other manufacturers like Durango, AE, Losi, cant do enough to help out.

Dont get me wrong, im Kyosho through & through, but to me some of the top Kyosho guys seem a little quiet.
They ARE quiet.. and it's been a topic of discussion more places than just RCtech. The only K Team driver I have seen hop on here and help out, is one of my buddies from T.R.C.R, team driver Ryan Matesa... He's not a pro (paid to drive), but even non-pro team drivers input can be pretty valuable... And Ryan is brutally fast. Iv only seen him come on a few times. Where you at, Ryan?
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:36 PM   #4365
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They ARE quiet.. and it's been a topic of discussion more places than just RCtech. The only K Team driver I have seen hop on here and help out, is one of my buddies from T.R.C.R, team driver Ryan Matesa... He's not a pro (paid to drive), but even non-pro team drivers input can be pretty valuable... And Ryan is brutally fast. Iv only seen him come on a few times. Where you at, Ryan?
The AE guys are fairly quiet as well. I know that they share the majority of their info on Facebook, but I believe that's Team Driver to Team Driver.

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I am keeping my eye on the MIP stuff (have been for a year). Currently, I see no reason to move to the MIP Diff, unless the outdrives wear considerably slower. What I am waiting for, are MIP's swing shafts, in hopes they wear a lot slower than the kyosho swing shafts (the pins where they wear on the outdrives). If there is a noticeable improvement in wear, I will change diffs and axle/swingshafts to MIPs. The stock Kyosho pieces just wear too quickly.

The one thing i am not sure about, is the fact that the MIP diff is imperial/standard, and not metric. What does that mean for the outdrive bearings? I assume that part of the diff is metric. Has anybody tried it yet?

Has anybody successfully replaced the pins on the stock CVDs? I think I remember somebody saying that they were able to do it with the Hudy tool.
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