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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-13-2013, 05:33 PM   #4216
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Already up and going...

Just wish to say thank you Captain for taking up the mantle, and also the powers at RCTech for truely thinking out of the box. Most 'first posts' become outdated and incorrect anyway, and I'll say half are simply for bragging rights! Thanks to the moderators for taking up the added responsibility of reviewing the opening post.

Now the respective b4 and 22 threads should follow suit. Look what we've created!

Cheers, skipper!
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Last edited by gelshocker; 01-13-2013 at 05:38 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:36 PM   #4217
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I want to thank you as well for taking the time to do that. The 1st page is looking really good so far and I will definitely reference it when I need to do setup changes.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:42 PM   #4218
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So pumped it worked out! Congrats Brandon on the new gig!!!
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #4219
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Brandon -

Here are a few things to note on the first post:
- The rear upper bulkhead and steering rack have already been strengthened in a running change. I have both parts and they are more sturdy than the original run. I'll show you next time I see you at the track.
- You can run the ball stud fairly safely in the outside hole if you put grub screws in the two other holes AND use UMW508B, high-mount ball stud with a nut underneath. I've been running this config for a couple of weeks with no more failures.
- Kyosho is working on some new Alu parts. No details yet.
- Many racers prefer to run the Kyosho clear, grooved x-rings ORG03X in their shocks. Some use clear (softer, smoother but needs replacing more often) on the inside and an orange x-ring on the outside.

Another common question is gearing. Adding some notes on common gearing configurations to start with would be helpful. For example, with an Epic D3.5 17.5 I'm running 69T (Avid Triad) / 32T.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:56 PM   #4220
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You're welcome guys... there is already a ton of info up.. please send me a PM with suggestions, no need to clog the thread THanks mike, I will keep working.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:19 PM   #4221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
Brandon -

Here are a few things to note on the first post:
- The rear upper bulkhead and steering rack have already been strengthened in a running change. I have both parts and they are more sturdy than the original run. I'll show you next time I see you at the track.
Mike, can you post photos to show us what to look for on these revised parts? Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:35 PM   #4222
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Quote:
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Mike, can you post photos to show us what to look for on these revised parts? Thanks!
+1
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:24 PM   #4223
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He's not the seller.. he was just showing you the link. The chassis doesn't appear to be dented. (but don't pay 400 for a used one. My track just sold two NIB ones for $420 each)
Haha thanks for clearing that up. First page is looking good...
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:28 PM   #4224
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Just a FYI the stock plates will not work with AE spurs they are too large in diameter.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:29 PM   #4225
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Just a FYI the stock plates will not work with AE spurs they are too large in diameter.
What plates?
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:35 PM   #4226
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Stock rb6 slipper plates are to large they will ride on the ridges that hold the AE pads on the AE spurs. Losi spurs and pads will work with stock Rb6 slipper plates.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:36 PM   #4227
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Slipper plates. Run the AE slipper.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:37 PM   #4228
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Quote:
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Stock rb6 slipper plates are to large they will ride on the ridges that hold the AE pads on the AE spurs. Losi spurs and pads will work with stock Rb6 slipper plates.
All I run are spurs designed for the AE cars on my kyosho (have for a couple years) and have never had a problem. I do run the Kimbroughs though, not the AE branded spurs as I find them to be very out of round, and very noisy.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:40 PM   #4229
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Stock rb6 slipper plates are to large they will ride on the ridges that hold the AE pads on the AE spurs. Losi spurs and pads will work with stock Rb6 slipper plates.
Can you post a link on both the pad and spur?
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:58 PM   #4230
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I didn't try a kimbrough I tried using the AE vented plates since I have a pair and the top shaft was too large in diameter.
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