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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-06-2013, 02:05 PM   #3991
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You want to go fast in stock? Make you have a GOOD PUNCHY battery, and a good motor.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:08 PM   #3992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
STOP!

Your making me crazy. One of the best things about this car is the big bore shocks. Kyosho shocks are so incredibly good.

The extreme focus on shaving weight is misguided. Work on driving, car setup, motor/battery/gearing, and tires. If you think shaving another 50 grams will make you the fastest your wrong.

My $.02
Chill out bro, I run a rb6 in mod and 1 b4.1 in stock. The b4.1 I have to ad weight to it to get it minimum. Just picked up another rb6 to try in stock cause I love it in mod. haven't even ran it yet.

Weight is an issue to clear a triple on the track I run at. Only 2-3 guys can clear that jump. Can save a whole second on a lap and I can barely clear it with the b4.1 now. 17.5 is a very large competitive class there so want to be prepared. Would rather deal with the weight issue before next saturday instead of ON Saturday.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:04 PM   #3993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
STOP!

Your making me crazy. One of the best things about this car is the big bore shocks. Kyosho shocks are so incredibly good.

The extreme focus on shaving weight is misguided. Work on driving, car setup, motor/battery/gearing, and tires. If you think shaving another 50 grams will make you the fastest your wrong.

My $.02
Troy.

Dialing in a car, including weight, and working on driving/setup/tires etc.. are NOT mutually exclusive. Your post insinuates that in order to have/do one, you have to give up the other, and that just isn't the case. You can do both, and both have value to your lap times. Fine tuning your weight is one of the best / most significant things you can change on your setup. Weight affects acceleration, nimbleness, braking, and traction. When traction is low, more weight generates more grip, possibly helping lap times. On tracks like mine, where traction is VERY high, too much weight generates too much traction, and you have issues with traction rolling, which DEVASTATES lap times... the lighter the better. 50 grams makes a huge difference.

Nobody is doing any "Extreme focusing".. whatever that is... were just chatting on a forum, that's it. Relax a little.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 01-06-2013 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:59 PM   #3994
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Just imagine if they came out with a plastic chassis as an option.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:02 PM   #3995
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Quote:
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Just imagine if they came out with a plastic chassis as an option.
would be a great tuning option for lower traction tracks!
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:09 PM   #3996
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Take out the side guard screws and the chassis twists like pretzel
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:12 PM   #3997
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Looking at Tebo's car I think he filed off the gutter walls.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:45 PM   #3998
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Take out the side guard screws and the chassis twists like pretzel
Iv run my car with all combinations of screws in the side pods.... even with no screws, the car still doesn't flex much. If you can twist your car's chassis like a pretzel, you have a unique chassis.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:27 PM   #3999
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If you want a "lighter" chassis then you should ask troy.. He has the tooling to make it happen! Hint hint buddy!!!

And to me 50 grams isn't that much in offroad world compared to onroad. I had a 22 since they came out and Im a new daddy to an rb6. Yes its chunky but love the way it drives compared to the losi. Plus having the pro kyosho guys locally sure does help for set up and setting the bar
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:54 PM   #4000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Looking at Tebo's car I think he filed off the gutter walls.
id say he did that for a little weight savings and to stick his electronics better. he runs mod for one so weight isnt an issue. a light car isnt the only answer out there. weight adds stability. stability = easier to drive easier to drive = less mistakes. less mistakes = more wins. so theres one triple you cant clear! dont tune for 1 specific section of track. but in the end its your car so have at it. let me know when your selling your heavy shocks
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:10 PM   #4001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Iv run my car with all combinations of screws in the side pods.... even with no screws, the car still doesn't flex much. If you can twist your car's chassis like a pretzel, you have a unique chassis.
In you're hands no, however you should be able to feel a significant difference on track with and without screws.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:11 PM   #4002
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Anyone have part numbers for the long shock ends? I got one pack from amain but its not as long as the ones that cam with my kit.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:49 PM   #4003
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I understand the discussion. I just think removing the big bore shocks to shave 10 or so grams is little extreme.

The RB6 is a bit on the heavy side of the minimum weight. So I understand the urge to shave weight. I just think when you start to sacrifice durability and/or performance for what you think you will gain in weight savings you are going to far. You could also go for a lighter ESC, 16ga wire, aluminum turnbuckles, or mill your chassis. All of these would shave weight but at what cost?

I think your time and money are better spent focusing on getting better as a driver, setup (other than the last 50 grams), better batteries and motor, and tires.


A couple of weeks ago I was running stock buggy at Top Gear in Portland. I TQ'd and my fast laps were 13.9 seconds. That night I let Andy Dibrino drive my car. Within a couple of laps he was turning 13.5 second laps. 4 tenths just because he is a better driver.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:02 PM   #4004
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You didn't do a 13.9.... It was more of a 14.9!! Haha
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:23 PM   #4005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
I understand the discussion. I just think removing the big bore shocks to shave 10 or so grams is little extreme.

The RB6 is a bit on the heavy side of the minimum weight. So I understand the urge to shave weight. I just think when you start to sacrifice durability and/or performance for what you think you will gain in weight savings you are going to far. You could also go for a lighter ESC, 16ga wire, aluminum turnbuckles, or mill your chassis. All of these would shave weight but at what cost?

I think your time and money are better spent focusing on getting better as a driver, setup (other than the last 50 grams), better batteries and motor, and tires.


A couple of weeks ago I was running stock buggy at Top Gear in Portland. I TQ'd and my fast laps were 13.9 seconds. That night I let Andy Dibrino drive my car. Within a couple of laps he was turning 13.5 second laps. 4 tenths just because he is a better driver.
i agree, one of the key buying points for kyosho is there shocks, you get rid of em yes you save weight but what does it do for your handling? and personally i think 50g of weight can be easily compensated for to make the tripple you speak of by adjusting motor timing correctly, geared corectly and of course setup, 4hole pistons will give you more pop off of a jump compared to 5 hole too by the way
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