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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-06-2013, 12:12 AM
  #3976  
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Thanks! If anyones interested in a set for the car PM me. I should have enough for 1 one car... but I will be placing another order for more if anyone wants a set.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:04 AM
  #3977  
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Originally Posted by evolution03
Any specific reason why ? Do they last longer or do others just not work well with Kyosho ?
In short, the ceramic balls are too slippery smooth. They just don't work well with how the kyosho 1/10th diffs are engineered. In order to keep the diff from barking/slipping with ceramics, you have to crank the diff WAY too tight, which really hinders rotation.. the diff will feel aweful.

Now, a nice set of carbides natually grip the metal diff rings. So you can run the differ looser (not loose, just looser than with ceramics), and it will still grab. This gives you a better range when tuning how tight you run your diff. Want more rotation? back the diff off a smidge... want less rotation? tighten it up a smidge. The carbides put you right in the middle of that sweet spot.

That being said, ceramics work fine in other cars, like the B4.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:46 AM
  #3978  
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Ceramics are also too hard, they wear out the rings a lot faster.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:02 AM
  #3979  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
In short, the ceramic balls are too slippery smooth. They just don't work well with how the kyosho 1/10th diffs are engineered. In order to keep the diff from barking/slipping with ceramics, you have to crank the diff WAY too tight, which really hinders rotation.. the diff will feel aweful.

Now, a nice set of carbides natually grip the metal diff rings. So you can run the differ looser (not loose, just looser than with ceramics), and it will still grab. This gives you a better range when tuning how tight you run your diff. Want more rotation? back the diff off a smidge... want less rotation? tighten it up a smidge. The carbides put you right in the middle of that sweet spot.

That being said, ceramics work fine in other cars, like the B4.
Ok that makes sense I appreciate your input
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:08 AM
  #3980  
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Any tips for shaving weight for stock? I am 50 grams over and have done everything I could think of: titanium screws and ball studs, back to the plastic rear hubs, slipper eliminator, lightened pinion, delrin pivot balls.

I have a set of small bore velvets, thinking thats my next step.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:23 AM
  #3981  
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What battery? Electronics? How tidy is your wiring?
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:35 AM
  #3982  
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orion r10pro, orion 90c shorty's, wires as short as I can get them.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:52 AM
  #3983  
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Originally Posted by b121774
orion r10pro, orion 90c shorty's, wires as short as I can get them.
Low pro servo will save you 10grams. But only 50 over is pretty light... thats right where I am at.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:53 AM
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I am running a spektrum low pro
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:56 AM
  #3985  
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Originally Posted by b121774
I am running a spektrum low pro
The only other two things I can think of right now, which I would never do

1. Run small bore velvet shocks (probably 15 grams lighter)
2. Run open cell foams (probably 5 grams lighter)
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:25 PM
  #3986  
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ummm stainless screws wont lighten the car stainless is one of the heviest metas ther are but they do look nice
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:31 PM
  #3987  
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Originally Posted by b121774
Any tips for shaving weight for stock? I am 50 grams over and have done everything I could think of: titanium screws and ball studs, back to the plastic rear hubs, slipper eliminator, lightened pinion, delrin pivot balls.

I have a set of small bore velvets, thinking thats my next step.
alu. motor plate? they must be lighter ... I'm thinking about getting one
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:47 PM
  #3988  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
The only other two things I can think of right now, which I would never do

1. Run small bore velvet shocks (probably 15 grams lighter)
2. Run open cell foams (probably 5 grams lighter)
Nothing wrong with option 1, but agree re 2.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:00 PM
  #3989  
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Originally Posted by b121774
Any tips for shaving weight for stock? I am 50 grams over and have done everything I could think of: titanium screws and ball studs, back to the plastic rear hubs, slipper eliminator, lightened pinion, delrin pivot balls.

I have a set of small bore velvets, thinking thats my next step.
STOP!

Your making me crazy. One of the best things about this car is the big bore shocks. Kyosho shocks are so incredibly good.

The extreme focus on shaving weight is misguided. Work on driving, car setup, motor/battery/gearing, and tires. If you think shaving another 50 grams will make you the fastest your wrong.

My $.02
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:17 PM
  #3990  
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Originally Posted by Troy Mckune
STOP!

Your making me crazy. One of the best things about this car is the big bore shocks. Kyosho shocks are so incredibly good.

The extreme focus on shaving weight is misguided. Work on driving, car setup, motor/battery/gearing, and tires. If you think shaving another 50 grams will make you the fastest your wrong.

My $.02
WORD!
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