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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-04-2013, 06:06 PM   #3931
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I would start at the japanese it's very well balanced and even though it says it's for outdoors I'm hooked up so well at my indoor track I haven't changed a thing. Other than zero caster.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:09 PM   #3932
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
yeah... you can get it there, or directly from exotek. They have some other good bling there as well.

Speaking of which, any feedback on the alu shock posts? I still don't like the alu on alu idea... I don't want to wear the shock caps.
Thanks Capt America. I look forward to getting the Rb6 up and going!
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:13 PM   #3933
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Thanks Capt America. I look forward to getting the Rb6 up and going!
No prob... let me know if I can answer any other questions for ya.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:19 PM   #3934
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Thanks Capt America. I look forward to getting the Rb6 up and going!
you will love the car, very high quality. And on the track its great. Only complaint I have is with the manual and the packing of the parts, Has you going all over the place
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #3935
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Anybody else here have trouble setting their gear mesh 69/34 with a revtech 17.5? From the few laps i was able to run before stripping my spur, the buggy was awesome.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:44 PM   #3936
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Anybody else here have trouble setting their gear mesh 69/34 with a revtech 17.5? From the few laps i was able to run before stripping my spur, the buggy was awesome.
What does the motor brand and/or gearing have to do with setting gear mesh? Here is the key to gear mesh:

1. Mesh the teeth between the two gears 2/3rds meshed.
2. Use high quality motor set screws with washers, and make em tight. Get the lunsford motor screws and you wont be disappointed. Best money I have spent in RC.
3. Your revtech is over-geared. Run it at 69/31, and run the end-bell timing all the way up.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:47 PM   #3937
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hi guys

are these the correct parts to put the "old" rb5 front axles on the RB6?

KYOLAW30GM Kyosho Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hubs Gunmetal
KYOUM506 Kyosho Front Wheel Shafts
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:49 PM   #3938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umm winning View Post
Anybody else here have trouble setting their gear mesh 69/34 with a revtech 17.5? From the few laps i was able to run before stripping my spur, the buggy was awesome.
I was at the same gearing aswell(Avid Spur), My gear mesh was perfectly fine and I still had a little room, but I went down to a 32.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:43 PM   #3939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
yeah... you can get it there, or directly from exotek. They have some other good bling there as well.

Speaking of which, any feedback on the alu shock posts? I still don't like the alu on alu idea... I don't want to wear the shock caps.
Brandon -
I've had the shock posts for about 1.5 months. Racing for 6 Saturdays and the occasional practice day. They are still very snug w/ minimal wear.

If these pics are too blurry, I'll get off my lazy "a" and get out the real camera.


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Old 01-04-2013, 08:50 PM   #3940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umm winning View Post
Anybody else here have trouble setting their gear mesh 69/34 with a revtech 17.5? From the few laps i was able to run before stripping my spur, the buggy was awesome.
I tried that gearing a while back but the mesh was way too tight for my liking.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:20 PM   #3941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
What does the motor brand and/or gearing have to do with setting gear mesh? Here is the key to gear mesh:

1. Mesh the teeth between the two gears 2/3rds meshed.
2. Use high quality motor set screws with washers, and make em tight. Get the lunsford motor screws and you wont be disappointed. Best money I have spent in RC.
3. Your revtech is over-geared. Run it at 69/31, and run the end-bell timing all the way up.
Was just saying brand and gearing just in case anybody had asked. I will try the above and thanks for the gearing info. @silvalis I was the complete opposite..
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:54 PM   #3942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 305M3 View Post
Brandon -
I've had the shock posts for about 1.5 months. Racing for 6 Saturdays and the occasional practice day. They are still very snug w/ minimal wear.
Not too shabby.. I sometimes get in 3 race nights in, in a week... there is one guy running a set at TCRC (downy? how the holding up for you?)...

Quote:
Originally Posted by umm winning View Post
Was just saying brand and gearing just in case anybody had asked. I will try the above and thanks for the gearing info. @silvalis I was the complete opposite..
Ok, sounds good. remember, if the gearing you are running (even if the ratio is right) is too tight... i.e. if more than 2/3rds of the teeth are meshed between the two gears, then you are running gears that are too large, and the motor is probably too far back (changes handling). Move down to smaller spur and smaller pinion, and do so in a ratio that keeps your FDR the same.

for example,

28/69 is about the same as 29/72, the motor just sits closer to the axle (in RM)

Always spin your meshed gears and check mesh at 4 or 5 spots around the spur gear. If the tip of a pinion tooth touches the spur gear, you're too tight. You add drag, heat, and will eventually strip the gear. If you see at some points that maybe only half of the pinion tooth is meshed with half the spur tooth, its too far away.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:08 PM   #3943
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Just bought a new RB6 and starting the build. I know this has been asked before, but anything I should pay particular attention to when building, or adjust from the manual setup? Not necessarily asking which aftermarket parts i should buy, just what should be adjusted or done perfectly when building the car? I have experience with building race kits, so I won't overlook the obvious(I hope). Thanks
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:40 PM   #3944
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My scale doesn't do tenths, but the stock rear brace (without set screws) and the Exotek brace show the same weight.......




Last edited by Ctimrun; 01-04-2013 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:42 PM   #3945
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Stock steering parts compared to the Exotek steering parts.....



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