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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-02-2013, 06:37 PM   #3841
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Hey Guys does the SP motor plate fit the 6?

Thanks
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:47 PM   #3842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
Less weight would be nice, however indoors, my blinky 17.5 out accelerates and out corners the b4s and Team Cs (plastic chassis cars). I understand the benefits of lower weight but if your running a strong batteries and good motor you're at no disadvantage.
Totally with you on this one. BITD I had an RC10 highly modified foam chassis car that was so light it was difficult to tune but it was FAST in stock. But that was 27turns and 7.2volts. Lipos and brushless changed the weight game. However you could easily find small gains all over the place, like the ends of that diggity strap, alu nuts instead of steel, the case for the capacitors, the antenae holder you don't use, all those little things will take of some grams and clean up the look of the car. Even if it is a waste of time performance wise it will still be fun to do and your car will be unique.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:11 PM   #3843
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I am sure you have seen this but even with the power of today's batts and mod motors the pro guys are trying to save weight as well over the stock setup. Again I think shaving some weight would be very beneficial for stock class racers to get some more advantage. Of course any advantage is dependent on having a perfect or near perfect run!

Pic of Tebo's milled chassis. Look like he even shaved some of the plastic side braces as well.....

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Old 01-02-2013, 07:17 PM   #3844
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Originally Posted by Ctimrun View Post
I am sure you have seen this but even with the power of today's batts and mod motors the pro guys are trying to save weight as well over the stock setup. Again I think shaving some weight would be very beneficial for stock class racers to get some more advantage. Of course any advantage is dependent on having a perfect or near perfect run!

Pic of Tebo's milled chassis. Look like he even shaved some of the plastic side braces as well.....
When was this pic taken? I question because I thought someone posted he was running initial prototype parts still. I could be wrong though.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:22 PM   #3845
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When was this pic taken? I question because I thought someone posted he was running initial prototype parts still. I could be wrong though.
Not sure when it was taken, just saw it on live rc. It's very possible this was before production was finalized....
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:06 PM   #3846
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That's an old photo, from the super nats at west coast before the car was released.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:14 PM   #3847
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I saw those milled sections too and when i looked at my kit i recall seeing the same milling but its all anodized so i think they milled his chassis after the anodizing. I think its the same milling in the kit?

does anyone know how much weight is save with the ti screws, ti pins, and ti balls
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:41 PM   #3848
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does anyone know how much weight is save with the ti screws, ti pins, and ti balls
Would love to know but whatever it is it will no doubt come at a hefty price!
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:36 PM   #3849
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Question on suspension holders -- I'm using 0* hubs. I'm assuming the rear toe is the same whether I use wide or narrow suspension hangers (-3*)? Besides changing hubs, what if I go with the wide front and narrow rear suspension holders? This should give me less rear toe-in, correct? I have not heard of anyone mixing the wide with the narrow holders on here, so what would be the negatives? Can someone please straighten me out?
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:07 PM   #3850
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.....

Last edited by Ctimrun; 01-03-2013 at 12:39 AM. Reason: Post deleted
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:46 PM   #3851
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Originally Posted by flybyublue View Post
Question on suspension holders -- I'm using 0* hubs. I'm assuming the rear toe is the same whether I use wide or narrow suspension hangers (-3*)? Besides changing hubs, what if I go with the wide front and narrow rear suspension holders? This should give me less rear toe-in, correct? I have not heard of anyone mixing the wide with the narrow holders on here, so what would be the negatives? Can someone please straighten me out?
I believe a wide rear holder and narrow front is 4.5 rear toe. Narrow rear and wide front is 1.5 toe.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:33 AM   #3852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyscott View Post


You tempted mate? I'm sure Uncle Tony will look after ...
RB6 is good as it is with proper motors in there!
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:34 AM   #3853
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I am interested in trying Kyosho big bore springs on my 22, I currently run Losi red springs in the front and white Losi springs in the rear. Could someone please help me with a Kyosho equivilant....... I was thinking Pink fronts and White rears?

Thank you very much for any input, it is greatly appreciated
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:26 AM   #3854
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I noticed my rb6 steering does not go to full lock to the right just wondering if iam missing something ? Do you think they are milling chassis for weight or for flex?
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:48 AM   #3855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mizzle View Post
I noticed my rb6 steering does not go to full lock to the right just wondering if iam missing something ? Do you think they are milling chassis for weight or for flex?
Did you trim the front bulkhead like it shows in the instructions?
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