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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-02-2013, 01:37 PM   #3826
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I buy jconcepts wings (dex210 hi clearance) in bulk and trim them to the lowest possible cut line more flex that way- this for racing. For practice still use original k wing, the cracks havent been growing and wings holding fine now
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:10 PM   #3827
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My fix for the rear camber block was this...first I cut 2.5mm carbon fiber plate in the shape of the oval area where the ball studs mount. Drill all the holes with a .098 drill. Rough up the cf and bottom of the bulkhead ball stud area. Align the holes up and glue the cf to the bottom, clamp and let cure. Tap all holes through with an m3 tap. Put a set screw through the inside hole to tie cf and bulkhead together and your ball stud on the middle or outer hole. Use a stud long enough to extend into cf. It is rock solid! A buddy flipped my car and got blasted in the straight, it broke the camber link lol. The link was in the outer hole too.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:39 PM   #3828
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I've read that this car is a "little heavy" which IMO is a bit of an understatement. Mine with Exotek steering rack and arms, Kyosho aluminum rear hubs, Kyosho aluminum rear suspension mounts, radiopost servo, Orion R10 Pro ESC, Airtronics RX-471, Fantom shorty pack, Fantom 17.5 motor, and barcodes front and rear comes it at 1585 grams. I have already cut my wires as short as possible, with the exception of the servo and transponder because I have not yet finalized the position of the receiver or transponder. I also weighed my current battery position/hold down setup versus the stock plastic stuff and I am a few grams lighter (didn't originally go with this battery setup for weight). For guys running mod it may not matter a whole lot, but for those of us running stock I think we would benefit greatly from shaving some weight.

Besides milling out the chassis and titanium bits, anyone have any thoughts or ideas?

EDIT: added photo of current setup....


Last edited by Ctimrun; 01-02-2013 at 03:12 PM. Reason: added photo
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:52 PM   #3829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctimrun View Post
I've read that this car is a "little heavy" which IMO is a bit of an understatement. Mine with Exotek steering rack and arms, Kyosho aluminum rear hubs, Kyosho aluminum rear suspension mounts, radiopost servo, Orion R10 Pro ESC, Airtronics RX-471, Fantom shorty pack, Fantom 17.5 motor, and barcodes front and rear comes it at 1585 grams. For guys running mod it may not matter a whole lot, but for those of us running stock I think we would benefit greatly from shaving some weight.

Besides milling out the chassis and titanium bits, anyone have any thoughts or ideas?
Keep an eye on RudeBits as I saw a nice prototype chassis recently

Due to be tested soon and first comment was you yanks running blinky class etc....
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:31 PM   #3830
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Originally Posted by mikeyscott View Post
Keep an eye on RudeBits as I saw a nice prototype chassis recently

Due to be tested soon and first comment was you yanks running blinky class etc....
Do I get commission ?
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:37 PM   #3831
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Lol
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:41 PM   #3832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctimrun View Post
Who makes those battery holders and brace?
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:49 PM   #3833
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Quote:
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Who makes those battery holders and brace?
Battery posts and strap are Kyosho parts. The battery braces are diggity designs. I slotted the mounting holes on the braces a bit so I could use the closest mounting position and spread them apart slightly to prevent having to spread to the next mounting hole and using foam.

Last edited by Ctimrun; 01-02-2013 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:20 PM   #3834
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Do I get commission ?


You tempted mate? I'm sure Uncle Tony will look after ...
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:45 PM   #3835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctimrun View Post
Battery posts and strap are Kyosho parts. The battery braces are diggity designs. I slotted the mounting holes on the braces a bit so I could use the closest mounting position and spread them apart slightly to prevent having to spread to the next mounting hole and using foam.
Happen to know the part number for the carbon strap?

Did you cut down the stap at all?
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:07 PM   #3836
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Does anyone know if the big bore upper shock eyelet (not the cap just the plastic insert that the upper screw goes though) is the same as the small bore? I'm looking to go to a big bore on my zx5 but the shocks are from an RB6 which has the longer top shock cap so I'd have to switch them and would like to use my small bore zx5 upper caps if possible. I know they are a different part number but I'm wondering if that is just because the spring cup that is included is the bigger diameter for the big bores.

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Old 01-02-2013, 05:12 PM   #3837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Happen to know the part number for the carbon strap?

Did you cut down the stap at all?
Part number is KYOUMW503 and ya I cut it.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:23 PM   #3838
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Less weight would be nice, however indoors, my blinky 17.5 out accelerates and out corners the b4s and Team Cs (plastic chassis cars). I understand the benefits of lower weight but if your running a strong batteries and good motor you're at no disadvantage.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:14 PM   #3839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctimrun View Post
I've read that this car is a "little heavy" which IMO is a bit of an understatement. Mine with Exotek steering rack and arms, Kyosho aluminum rear hubs, Kyosho aluminum rear suspension mounts, radiopost servo, Orion R10 Pro ESC, Airtronics RX-471, Fantom shorty pack, Fantom 17.5 motor, and barcodes front and rear comes it at 1585 grams. I have already cut my wires as short as possible, with the exception of the servo and transponder because I have not yet finalized the position of the receiver or transponder. I also weighed my current battery position/hold down setup versus the stock plastic stuff and I am a few grams lighter (didn't originally go with this battery setup for weight). For guys running mod it may not matter a whole lot, but for those of us running stock I think we would benefit greatly from shaving some weight.

Besides milling out the chassis and titanium bits, anyone have any thoughts or ideas?
milling the chassis starts to change what was intended by the designer. i notice many top drivers dont add the pretty stuff like aluminum steering parts and carbon fiber battery mounts. it seems that at least some of these things just add weight and the point in stock is to make the car light and not have it built like a tank. what is the weight of your battery mount assembly and big thumb screws vs the plastic stock assembly with 2 tiny clips?

you can save weight by using a low profile servo, get a titanium screw kit (speedtech rc), ti pins and balls. use TQ 13gauge thin wall wires...
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:21 PM   #3840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHistory View Post
milling the chassis starts to change what was intended by the designer. i notice many top drivers dont add the pretty stuff like aluminum steering parts and carbon fiber battery mounts. it seems that at least some of these things just add weight and the point in stock is to make the car light and not have it built like a tank. what is the weight of your battery mount assembly and big thumb screws vs the plastic stock assembly with 2 tiny clips?

you can save weight by using a low profile servo, get a titanium screw kit (speedtech rc), ti pins and balls. use TQ 13gauge thin wall wires...
Didn't write the weights down but all my battery setup parts are lighter than the stock stuff I was using. Not by much but by a few grams.
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