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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-28-2012, 01:14 PM   #3691
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rear axles are the same, diff is the same, springs are the same (xgear), shock bodies and caps are different, tranny gears are different.
Shock bodies are the same as are the tranny gears
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:12 PM   #3692
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pm sent
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:04 PM   #3693
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ok building the diff now, How in the hell can you tell what side of the diff rings are rounded that face the diffs balls?
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Last edited by tony montana; 12-28-2012 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:55 PM   #3694
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update, took a guess at the diff rings. Putting the tranny together now, On step 20 it says to use the 3x35 screw to bolt the cases together and use the 3x6x2 plastic collars. However I cant use the collar with one of the screws. Its the top furthest back one. Basically the 2mm collar is to wide. Kind of hard to explain with words. I must say im not all that impressed so far. The car uses way to many different plastic collars, were I think they should all be aluminum for the price of the car. And the packing of the parts is a joke. I have open bags everywhere,The mid motor parts need to be in there own bag. I have had to disassemble some of what I have already built, because the mid motor parts are in the same bag as the rear motor and the parts look very similar. To me so far it just looks like I paid 450 bucks for a losi 22. Now hopefully if I ever get it on the track I will think different. But so far, not impressed. I have built 1/8 nitro buggies faster than it has taken me to put this thing together
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:13 PM   #3695
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Packaging isn't their strong suit, plastic instead of aluminum won't effect performance. Take your time going thru the build and be patient. The build instructions aren't the clearest but my gf,, who has never built a kit, just built hers in about 6hrs. I only helped with the diff.

Dbl check your assemblies and the kit will reward you on track. It's a 2wd buggy after all, it doesn't get much simpler and the road to excellence isn't always an easy one.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:17 PM   #3696
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ok building the diff now, How in the hell can you tell what side of the diff rings are rounded that face the diffs balls?
KC gotta look at them real close. you can also feel the difference. the smooth side has the rounded edge. it will all be worth it once you hit the track. I practiced today and man the car just does everything right.... I would spend $400 again for the car.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:20 PM   #3697
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@Kevin,

What rear hubs are you running? 0.5's or 0's?
I run 0 degree at WC.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:24 PM   #3698
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Well I must say I'm think I'm very good at building kits and overall maintaince. I agree 2wd buggy kits are easy to build. I built my 22 in 3 hours. Just saying the kit should have atleast aluminum rear anti squat and rear toe plates. But these plastic collars are a joke. I mean come on atleast stamp on them what mm they are. Shouldn't have to take calipers and measure all of them. But the one collar that goes with the 3x35 screw on the top furthest back will not work. I guess I'm gonna have to cut 2mm of the screw and not use the collar cause the space where the collar goes isn't wide enough for it to go against the diff case
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:31 PM   #3699
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Well I must say I'm think I'm very good at building kits and overall maintaince. I agree 2wd buggy kits are easy to build. I built my 22 in 3 hours. Just saying the kit should have atleast aluminum rear anti squat and rear toe plates. But these plastic collars are a joke. I mean come on atleast stamp on them what mm they are. Shouldn't have to take calipers and measure all of them. But the one collar that goes with the 3x35 screw on the top furthest back will not work. I guess I'm gonna have to cut 2mm of the screw and not use the collar cause the space where the collar goes isn't wide enough for it to go against the diff case
I'm not in fron tof my buggy right now but you are talking about the screws that go through the case and into the aluminum motor plate?
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:35 PM   #3700
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Yeah that's them Derek. It's the top one closest to the motor
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:32 PM   #3701
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Yeah that's them Derek. It's the top one closest to the motor
If it's the collars in this pic, i'm using the shorter diameter ones. Can't remember if these were included in the kit or not...prob not...
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:15 PM   #3702
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Originally Posted by lbckevin View Post
I run 0 degree at WC.
Thanks!
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:24 PM   #3703
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KC gotta look at them real close. you can also feel the difference. the smooth side has the rounded edge. it will all be worth it once you hit the track. I practiced today and man the car just does everything right.... I would spend $400 again for the car.
Easiest way is by touch. It's fairly obvious though.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:28 PM   #3704
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Well I must say I'm think I'm very good at building kits and overall maintaince. I agree 2wd buggy kits are easy to build. I built my 22 in 3 hours. Just saying the kit should have atleast aluminum rear anti squat and rear toe plates. But these plastic collars are a joke. I mean come on atleast stamp on them what mm they are. Shouldn't have to take calipers and measure all of them. But the one collar that goes with the 3x35 screw on the top furthest back will not work. I guess I'm gonna have to cut 2mm of the screw and not use the collar cause the space where the collar goes isn't wide enough for it to go against the diff case
If the car quality and build is a joke, I'll buy it from you $200.

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Old 12-28-2012, 11:33 PM   #3705
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If the spacers arent sitting on the tranny flush you have the wrong spacer. The one that goes there has a smaller o.d.
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