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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-26-2012, 10:00 AM   #3616
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yeah you should be good to go. The aluminum hinge pin holders are needed as well, get the strc ones if you want regular width or kyosho for wider. If you break your steering rack just order the exotek one.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:02 AM   #3617
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
yeah you should be good to go. The aluminum hinge pin holders are needed as well, get the strc ones if you want regular width or kyosho for wider. If you break your steering rack just order the exotek one.
i have not needed the alum holders to date. the new RB6 stock ones are beefed up i'm not the best driver. i haven't seen one break locally out of the 4/5 we have running.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #3618
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
i have not needed the alum holders to date. the new RB6 stock ones are beefed up i'm not the best driver. i haven't seen one break locally out of the 4/5 we have running.
I broke em on my rb5 so insurance is always good! .
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:19 AM   #3619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
I broke em on my rb5 so insurance is always good! .
The rb6 ones are waaaayyy more beefed up than the rb5 ones.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:44 AM   #3620
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The only thing is I'm worried about is my viper vtx10 not fitting with the caps on the esc. I mean its brand new never been in a car yet and viper says no warranty if they are removed or changed
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:58 AM   #3621
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there is enough room to only have the esc partially under the rear bulk head/ tower, my R10 is only halfway under it. there is plenty of room.
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:05 AM   #3622
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
there is enough room to only have the esc partially under the rear bulk head/ tower, my R10 is only halfway under it. there is plenty of room.
Ok good. I'm sweating it since I saw the post on the previous page
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:11 AM   #3623
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i'll post a picture when i get home later.
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Old 12-26-2012, 11:51 AM   #3624
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Default viper esc

here is my revention pro with power cap on top . if you are going to use shorty packs no problem
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:19 PM   #3625
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AND thats mid motor... in rear, we have an extra inch or inch 1/2..
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:12 PM   #3626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHistory View Post
I am trying a setup that calls for "Narrow blocks in rear hinge pins"

I started going through my car and parts bag. I'm totally confused because I have 2 blocks marked RF2. I assume the less beefy one is from the RB5...

Do I use the RF block and the narrow rear rear part? The narrow rear rear block is also less beefy and on the diagram it is greyed out indicating its not for this kit???

Someone please explain and maybe even tell me which parts in the diagram I should use.
Thx
RF block goes with the narrow block and RF2 goes with the wider block. As long as the front block says "RF" and the rear block is the shorter or narrower of the two you're good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
Make sure to use beefer Rf2 or you'll be changing it out again mine broke not even hitting anything, for the rear I use the RB5 one in box as that's what a team Kyosho driver showed me to do along with no shim under the blocks
I hope you're not running your blocks based on thickness or "beefierness" are you?

The only thing I've broke on this car was the rear suspension block. This was a result of my rear tire hitting a concrete well that I shouldn't have hit at full speed. This is the only thing I've broken on my RB6 so far. You are securing a plastic block to a metal chassis, the plastic is going to give most likely every time. I'm running the gunmetal aluminum ones from the RB5 which are the same, problem solved. My SETUP calls for the Aluminum RF and Aluminum narrow block.

Part No. UMW512GM and UMW511GM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KSimmonds View Post
*If* you have issues with breaking the rack snag the Exotek alum. version. They make the bellcranks as well. I haven't seen many racks break in my area though.
I read often that people "hear" that the rack breaks. There's about 15 people running RB6's at my local track and I haven't seen ONE person break it. Maybe it's different layouts and skill sets that factor in...
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:19 PM   #3627
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Default New layout...

I thought I would try some new stuff for the last race of the year...new electronics layout and shortie as well as some mods I picked up from here. I also used some titanium that I had from other cars and my RB6 with this setup weights 1595gr...not bad

And yes the esc WILL fit under the rear tower in RM configuration no matter which battery layout you use (my esc is ORCA btw)...I even managed to fit the capacitor behind the esc!

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:55 PM   #3628
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Quote:
I read often that people "hear" that the rack breaks. There's about 15 people running RB6's at my local track and I haven't seen ONE person break it. Maybe it's different layouts and skill sets that factor in...
This is the same case here. My wife is now driving a 6 and she isn't exactly a precision driver just yet, but she hasn't broken anything with the car box stock. The only thing I broke was a rear camber plate and that was definitely my fault clipping a tube at the end of a very high speed straight and flipping 20 times right into the wall. I can't believe that's the only thing that broke...
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:04 PM   #3629
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
welcome to the Red Army!
This tempted me to get a RB6 and every time I peel someone on the track just scream FOR MOTHER RUSSIA from the driver's stand
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:21 PM   #3630
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do it! do it! do it! do it! do it! do it!
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