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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-25-2012, 09:22 AM   #3586
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On the fence between the rb6 and the b4 worlds. Obviously the rb6 is a lot more money. Does the rb6 need anything out of the box to run indoors? Biggest question is durability, is the car strong and not break after minor crashes? Is the rb6 worth the extra 200 over the b4?
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:33 AM   #3587
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^^^the rb6(or anything Kyosho) is superior to any AE product in my opinion as far as quality and longevity. The WC b4.1 handles pretty good but wears fast. The car does not need anything to run well indoors other than maybe an aluminum steering rack if you are going to hit pipes hard but that is still up to discussion. I am not the only one to say it is the best handling out of box car out there. Plus it has the best shocks in the industry and if you get the b4.1 WC you only get v2 shocks and no big bores. The AE big bores are not impressive to me at all. Just get the K car and put it on the track and you will forget the cost offset really fast.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:42 AM   #3588
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yeah I agree, by the time I buy the big bores for the b4 im at 350, then buy the springs im at 375. Like I said my biggest concern is durablity, just dont wanna break the car every time I crash lol. I currently have a 22 and do like the car and have not broke the buggy yet but it just pushes a little to much for me. Do the rb6 use the same wheel as the 22 or does it use a different type
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:43 AM   #3589
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I've been running the avid system for just over a week. So maybe four track days. I've seen more consistency in my top 5,10, and 20 lap times. The noise is insignificant at best. The gear mesh is the same as it was when I put it on

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Old 12-25-2012, 09:49 AM   #3590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
yeah I agree, by the time I buy the big bores for the b4 im at 350, then buy the springs im at 375. Like I said my biggest concern is durablity, just dont wanna break the car every time I crash lol. I currently have a 22 and do like the car and have not broke the buggy yet but it just pushes a little to much for me. Do the rb6 use the same wheel as the 22 or does it use a different type
The car is super durable and just as tough as the 22 but actually has rear grip. The steering is second to none.

The wheels are a different type. Just pick up some new ones or someone's rb5 tire lot as they are the same. I have lots of wheels if you need some.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:51 AM   #3591
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The rear wheels will work but the fronts are different.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:52 AM   #3592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
On the fence between the rb6 and the b4 worlds. Obviously the rb6 is a lot more money. Does the rb6 need anything out of the box to run indoors? Biggest question is durability, is the car strong and not break after minor crashes? Is the rb6 worth the extra 200 over the b4?
Tony,
The RB6 is definitely worth the money. The Kyosho fit and finish is really second to none on this model. That combined with the "cleanest" feedback when you make setup changes that I've experienced yet. Meaning: move the shock position and you can appreciate the cars response. Soooo, setup changes track to track or as the dirt changes are simply money.
I hate to jinx myself but Ive only broken a ball cap when I landed on the pipe off some big triple at SRS last month. I also had an outdrive chip during that crash. Otherwise, SOLID.
Hope this helps.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:54 AM   #3593
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Thanks Matt T.....I forgot about the rears working. I sold my 22 wheels so I would not be tempted to use them.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:57 AM   #3594
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are the shock springs that come with the car the standard most guys run or do most run different ones? Also what about shock pistons
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:10 AM   #3595
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Yes. Some run gold rears I think. The stock pistons are fine and some run Losi 55 all the way around. There is lots of info in this thread about pistons too.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:20 AM   #3596
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One of the biggest things I noticed after the track was rebuilt was how the 22s were looking for steering and the B4s were looking for rear grip. There were 3 other Rb6 and we noticeably weren't in need of anything. I didn't change anything on my car all day except tires for a different feel.

I also noticed I was able run aka inserts to make the front end less aggressive because the car had way to much steering.

Several other drivers comments on how the car did everything well and one associated owner jokingly called the car a silent assassin because I wasn't making changes or asking for tips or what the others were running.

I've NEVER been so satisfied with a car out if the box. Only broke one part in 3hrs of run time between friday practice and racing all day saturday was the steering rack and it was after bouncing off if pipes all day and slamming into a pipe with the wheels turned coming off a table top. I put the exotek part on and now have a little better feel in the steering but other than that it's been super solid.

I'd recommend .5 & 1mm shims to allow adjustments like ballstuds heights etc but other than that, just run it.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:00 AM   #3597
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Last edited by MrHistory; 12-25-2012 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:49 AM   #3598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
On the fence between the rb6 and the b4 worlds. Obviously the rb6 is a lot more money. Does the rb6 need anything out of the box to run indoors? Biggest question is durability, is the car strong and not break after minor crashes? Is the rb6 worth the extra 200 over the b4?
In the spring I went from and RB5 to a B4.1 worlds. Last month I switch to an RB6. The B4.1 is a great car but really needs some updating and quality control. I love AE but damn the B4.1 is sloppy.

As far as price the B4.1 is around $230-$250 but don't forget it's another $200 plus to get it up to team standards. You will still need big bores, avid or jc steering rack, carbon arms f/r, hexes f/r, SC10 front axles and steering blocks, shaved carbon u brace, RPM ballcups, and carbon C towers.

The RB6 is great out of the box. The quality is far superior. As far as feel and driving the RB6 has more steering. I always struggled to get on power steering out of the B4.1. That being said both cars can perform great and you will be happy either way. Just don't base your choice on price alone.

Troy
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:51 AM   #3599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
In the spring I went from and RB5 to a B4.1 worlds. Last month I switch to an RB6. The B4.1 is a great car but really needs some updating and quality control. I love AE but damn the B4.1 is sloppy.

As far as price the B4.1 is around $230-$250 but don't forget it's another $200 plus to get it up to team standards. You will still need big bores, avid or jc steering rack, carbon arms f/r, hexes f/r, SC10 front axles and steering blocks, shaved carbon u brace, RPM ballcups, and carbon C towers.

The RB6 is great out of the box. The quality is far superior. As far as feel and driving the RB6 has more steering. I always struggled to get on power steering out of the B4.1. That being said both cars can perform great and you will be happy either way. Just don't base your choice on price alone.

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Old 12-25-2012, 12:34 PM   #3600
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I am trying a setup that calls for "Narrow blocks in rear hinge pins"

I started going through my car and parts bag. I'm totally confused because I have 2 blocks marked RF2. I assume the less beefy one is from the RB5...

Do I use the RF block and the narrow rear rear part? The narrow rear rear block is also less beefy and on the diagram it is greyed out indicating its not for this kit???

Someone please explain and maybe even tell me which parts in the diagram I should use.
Thx
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