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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-23-2012, 01:21 PM   #3556
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Thanks!!!

DICK.....lol
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:25 PM   #3557
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Thanks!!!

DICK.....lol
lol...i always wanted to try that. hope it was what you were looking for.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:42 PM   #3558
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Yup that was it
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:14 PM   #3559
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Thanks bro!
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:09 PM   #3560
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I have a question,

I never really thought of changing out screws for different materials like Stainless Steel,
Would that be a good idea to do?
Pros and Cons of this?
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:36 PM   #3561
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I have a question,

I never really thought of changing out screws for different materials like Stainless Steel,
Would that be a good idea to do?
Pros and Cons of this?
Stainless is fine for any screw that presses things together. You just don't want to use them anywhere where something is hanging on them, like either the top or bottom of the shock mounts. For those locations you want to use the stronger heat treated black ones that come on the kit. Anywhere else, stainless works just fine.
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:37 PM   #3562
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Thanks bro!
Avids are too soft.
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:00 PM   #3563
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Avids are too soft.
Depends on your track.
Avids are great on mine.
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:01 PM   #3564
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Depends on your track.
Avids are great on mine.
Did you increase your shock oil to compensate for the much softer rate?

Dave
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:29 PM   #3565
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LMAO! How did I not know about this awesome site??? Oh I'm gonna over-use the sh*t out of this!
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:45 PM   #3566
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Did you increase your shock oil to compensate for the much softer rate?

Dave
Shock oil and springs have to be balanced. Thicker oil with a soft spring doesn't play together well
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:56 PM   #3567
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Avids are too soft.
I relized that after I spent my hard earned money...
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:01 PM   #3568
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Reason I ask is because I've been toying w/ rear springs trying to get traction on a very dry track here. When it was retaining water the car was dialed w/ v1 green rear barcodes and soft suburbs up front. Ever since it's dried i've been fighting rear traction. In the rear I've tried barcodes in super soft and soft (both v1 and v2), holeshots in supersoft and some supersoft suburbs with little success. I did find that the v2 barcode in supersoft w/ a soft barcode up front was the best combo but still not stable. I was toying w/ springs and was going between the yellow/pink rear spring w/ 30wt. rear and eventually went a step softer to the avid white. They helped but the rear was bottoming out on pretty much everything including a mild stepdown we've got. That unsettled the rear even more of course and made it more difficult to drive.

I've tried adding a bit more rear camber, taking some out of the front, taking a tad of anti-squat out (.5). I even geared down to see if it'd help and it didn't. I'm going to get some 1 deg. rear hubs and hope that helps.

Dave
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:08 PM   #3569
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i run .5 in my car everywhere so far. i think running that stiff of rear spring is really your problem im on kyosho golds and i dont have the same bottoming issues you speak of. i also run 27.5 oil in the rear. using spring rate is not really an effective way to keep the car from bottoming out. thats more of a piston and oil tuning situation. just my 2cents. by the way i've run my car on some of the slickest surfaces that are out there. whats your entire setup?
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:15 PM   #3570
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Post your setup, also removing the 3 screws from the side guards is a big help in gaining traction and stability. I haven't put them back since removing them
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