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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-16-2012, 08:03 PM   #3436
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GMK Hole Thing sold at amain is what I use to hand drill pistons. Works like a charm...
That's what I use too! And I agree...
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:17 PM   #3437
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guys i will be selling a metal shock tool to replace the kit supplied plastic ones on wed.. they will be $12 a piece including shipping. please pm me if you are interested and i will begin mailing on thursday. thank you
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:15 AM   #3438
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Interesting, I had seen it a couple of months back, but forgot about it.

Conditions in UK these days are hard going.

http://www.tonyevdoka.com/stotfold-w...ries-16-12-12/

I use the Much More shock tool, v nice
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:47 AM   #3439
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Side note, anyone else have issues with Kyosho outdrives? Mine chipped, and I have the other side wearing as well. Anything I can do to make this stop? It has happened on all of my cars.
I have had two set of outdrives actually chip and chunk away on the breaking side in the last two weeks. Never have had this happen in three years of owning 6 different kyosho buggies. After 2 packs the third set had paint chips missing already so several "100%" team drivers looked at my setup and suggested my rear arms were shimmed too tight. The thought was the dogbone had no play in its angle and was slamming the outdrive too directly.
Hope this suggestion helps as this was beyond a normal "wear item" fo sure.

R
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:45 AM   #3440
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By the way, has anyone tried the MIP bypass technology valving in their RB6 shocks yet????

R
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:44 AM   #3441
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So I don't know why I never noticed or tried this before, but I realized that if you flip the diff and your swing shafts/axles together, you change which side of the out drive and which side of the swing shaft pin get the "on-throttle" wear.

I flipped it all around before my weekend race and had zero issues. Adjusting the diff now requires you go in from the side with a flat head (cant reach the little hole anymore)... but other then that.. it's a good way to get better life out of your swing shaft pins and out drives. Maybe swap them all around every couple weeks when you pull things apart to clean or rebuild.

For all I know, you guys all do this already

Anybody forsee any issues with this? Maybe some braking inconsistency as the contact wear is now on the "braking side" of the pins/outdrives instead of the "throttle side"?
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:49 AM   #3442
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Originally Posted by RonBegeot View Post
By the way, has anyone tried the MIP bypass technology valving in their RB6 shocks yet????

R
been using them for months in an rb5 don't have a 6 yet. Using the 22 pistons. Lot's of potential if you have the time to test.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:56 AM   #3443
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So I don't know why I never noticed or tried this before, but I realized that if you flip the diff and your swing shafts/axles together, you change which side of the out drive and which side of the swing shaft pin get the "on-throttle" wear.

I flipped it all around before my weekend race and had zero issues. Adjusting the diff now requires you go in from the side with a flat head (cant reach the little hole anymore)... but other then that.. it's a good way to get better life out of your swing shaft pins and out drives. Maybe swap them all around every couple weeks when you pull things apart to clean or rebuild.

For all I know, you guys all do this already

Anybody forsee any issues with this? Maybe some braking inconsistency as the contact wear is now on the "braking side" of the pins/outdrives instead of the "throttle side"?
Pretty sure that's a bad idea because now you risk the chance of the diff loosening. When braking with the differential flipped now when you stop it rotating in the "loosen" direction on the nut. I was always told to run it the right way. Swapping the swingshafts shouldn't be a problem but I don't see too much of a benefit. Maybe a little bit now that the less flattened part would be on the outdrive during acceleration.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:59 AM   #3444
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Pretty sure that's a bad idea because now you risk the chance of the diff loosening. When braking with the differential flipped now when you stop it rotating in the "loosen" direction on the nut. I was always told to run it the right way. Swapping the swingshafts shouldn't be a problem but I don't see too much of a benefit. Maybe a little now that the less flattened part is on the outdrive during acceleration.
But if "braking" with the diff facing one way can loosen the nut, then "accelerating" with the diff facing the other way can do the same thing, no?. I ran the car hard through 8 packs on Saturday and the diff stayed perfect the entire night.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:54 AM   #3445
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candy
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-wocott-rb6.jpg  
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:55 AM   #3446
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nice!
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:04 AM   #3447
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New body painted by Aflac Designs. This guy does really good work and is pretty fast too! Check him out here
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:06 AM   #3448
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By the way, has anyone tried the MIP bypass technology valving in their RB6 shocks yet????

R
Don't see the need at all. Ghea pistons all around with stock shocks with oil tuned for air temps. I can take a HUGE triple on my indoor nitro track and still cruise through the bumpy ruts without steering corrections. Plus I heard the MIPs work well but the side flaps need servicing since they are a wear item.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:38 AM   #3449
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Pretty sure that's a bad idea because now you risk the chance of the diff loosening. When braking with the differential flipped now when you stop it rotating in the "loosen" direction on the nut. I was always told to run it the right way. Swapping the swingshafts shouldn't be a problem but I don't see too much of a benefit. Maybe a little bit now that the less flattened part would be on the outdrive during acceleration.
Somebody asked me about this since they put their diff in backwards building their Losi. AE diffs have been adjusted from the right side forever without an issue. I dont see it being a problem.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:42 AM   #3450
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Same here, diff direction should not matter. Gas trucks used to have them on the opposite side compared to the electric counterpart. Never an issue with them.
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